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Discussion Starter #1,642
it's just numbers.
think of them like street addresses and the data you want to send as mail.
every packet is an envelope.

so if you're going to connect it to a network I'd advise assigning it a static IP outside of your DHCP range, or assigning it a static DHCP lease.
that way it's always at the same address when you ask it something.

the larger issue will be when you're away from home how will you talk to it? hotspot from your phone?
wifi hotspot in the truck?
unless it will do an adhoc network and assign your phone a DHCP address you won't be able to use it standalone, which is probably the single biggest advantage to bluetooth vs wifi.

do you ave anything else you'd like to be accessible on a network? If so an access point may be a good thing in the truck to just provide an easy access to everything on it's own network.
Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah??????

I kinda get he basics....

I will have to mess with it this afternoon. Supposedly its automatic for the most part, says no need to assign IP's etc.

I believe it will talk to the app on my phone. I think...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKJMXxRIkG0

We run a hotspot in the truck when we are in the US, but I am not sure I can get this thing connected to it (wife's work hotspot....). At home I may be just able to tickle the wifi from the parking spot. I have an extender I can try as well.

Nothing else I need networked on the truck.


I ran into the same issue on some job trailers I built with Renogy and AIMS inverter/chargers. Roughnecks would leave the inverter in Auto and forgot to turn it off when the would rig move, next location = dead battery voltage too low to charge

Maybe the color control will help with the reminding.
Exactly!!! I turn the inverter ON when I want it, not have to turn it off all the damn time.... Oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,643
I'm probably interjecting to much here but I believe this is the designed system for the components he is using. As far as I know it will store data online and upload when its back in wifi range.
https://vrm.victronenergy.com/landingpage
I don't think it stores/uploads when back online, that section just goes missing.

But yes that's the system.

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I don't think it stores/uploads when back online, that section just goes missing.

But yes that's the system.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Looks like 48 hours of storage with SD card in Color Control

Data logging
When connected to the internet, all data is sent to the VRM Portal. When there is no internet
connection available, the CCGX will store the data internally, up to 48 hours. By inserting a micro SDcard or USB stick, more data can be stored. These files can then be uploaded to the VRM Portal, or
offline converted with the VictronConnect app, for analysis.
edit: I need to re-read that, kind of looks like with larger SD or USB card much more data log is available than the internal memory of 48 hours?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,645
Looks like 48 hours of storage with SD card in Color Control



edit: I need to re-read that, kind of looks like with larger SD or USB card much more data log is available than the internal memory of 48 hours?
Yes I think its 48 internal, and more with SD, cant use too large and SD as it must be FAT32, not exFAt32.
 

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I am so freaking sore. What idiot designed this fucking truck?!?!?!

48" deep, 9" wide.... My wires have to run at the VERY back edge.... Put both arms over your head, shimmy in, brace feet against other wall, breathe out and push.... Ouch. I am not a small person...



After drilling two holes (because the first one was too small.....) Feed long stiff wire through and try to hit the hole in the upper shelf. Curse repeatedly. But I got it, take one VE direct cable, one power cable, and one ethernet, and hope like hell you can get it back thru the little hole.


[/img]
That is where you have one of the kids go in there and feed the wire for you. Let them earn their keep and their travel time in truck :D

Aaron Z

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Discussion Starter #1,647
Yeah I really should have.... But explaining what to do seemed harder than just doing it. But I am so sore..... I think I bruised everything from my nipples up, front and back....
 

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Curiosity only...

This has been one of the best builds in this forum for a long time... So looking back, would you do it again? Worth the effort and money? Or would you go a different route?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,649
Curiosity only...

This has been one of the best builds in this forum for a long time... So looking back, would you do it again? Worth the effort and money? Or would you go a different route?
Absofreakingloutely.

I love this truck, it works REALLY well for us. Would there be some changes doing it again? Yes definitely.

Doing it over:
Shorter, the headroom is nice, but its tall.
Floor heat!!! Hydronic.
I build the kitchen over the flooring, looking back that was dumb. If I ever want to replace it I am screwed.
The ply interior is nice, but heavy. Composite with veneer? Maybe. And if ply, paint all the edges with epoxy resin before install. water gets EVERYWHERE.
Different water heater.
Different wheels and tire maybe. Id like to try some 20" but its $$$ just to try. Not sure they would be better.
Keep it lighter in general. Not sure its really possible with keeping all the amenities. (smaller body and not plate steel floor would help)
I wish someone made a window without ALU frames. I would consider the Arctic Tern, but you have to design around their sizes.

All that being what it is, I love this thing. Its really really good. If I was to do a V3 ever it would be smaller for just the wife and I when the kid is out of the house. But I likely wont. If this one is still alive it will work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,650
Oh and on the programming/networking front.... you have to use THEIR wifi dongle.... It would not recognize any of the ones I had.....

But now it knows its a DC system and will show that on the main screen. And telling it its a vehicle adds an inveter on/off toggle to the front of the other main screen.

 

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Discussion Starter #1,651
Alright smart people...... Help me out here.

Installed batteries, charger etc. Set the charge profile to what the battery mfg speed. 14.7 bulk, and I don't remember float... According to the meter it was full, taking in no more Power(plugged in for a couple days).

We took it out this weekend, and by this morning batteries were dipping to 12.0 under load.... Shunt showed 95ah drawn out, and ~87% left (set at 500ah).

Battery temp was 39.8F (on the closet ones, the outer wall may be a little colder, but there is an air gap there)

WTF is going on??

And otherwise the weekend was pretty damn decent.





 

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Yes I think its 48 internal, and more with SD, cant use too large and SD as it must be FAT32, not exFAt32.
you can format up to 128gb with fat32 if you do it right.

I have a 128gb flah drive in my 2008 bmw that only understands fat32.


battery draw things is odd.
have you put an actual meter on the batteries to make sure the electronics aren't fucky?

still, depending on current draw, 12v may be above 50% charge.
https://www.scubaengineer.com/documents/lead_acid_battery_charging_graphs.pdf
 

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I will throw my 2 cents now that you have decided, bought and installed batteries.

There is no question (IMO) Lithium is worth the effort and $$ especially for someone who uses his stuff un-plugged as much as you do.

Significantly more "available" amp hour compared to AGM (LIPO goes 80% DOD and AGM is only 50% DOD) with your 500AHs that is 150AH more, this "extra" capacity in and of itself is more than capable to "heat" themselves when needed AND still have more power available.
Significant reduction in weight
Significant increase in duty cycles

Again only worth 2 cents, carry on.
I do like the Victron stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,654
you can format up to 128gb with fat32 if you do it right.

I have a 128gb flah drive in my 2008 bmw that only understands fat32.


battery draw things is odd.
have you put an actual meter on the batteries to make sure the electronics aren't fucky?

still, depending on current draw, 12v may be above 50% charge.
https://www.scubaengineer.com/documents/lead_acid_battery_charging_graphs.pdf
I have a couple of SD's I can play with. It seems the log files are pretty small.

I did get the wifi dongle, and got it uploading to the VRM portal.

I will say though, for Victron, the color control phone/remote use SUCKS. Really bad. At least compared to the BT hookup for the BMV and solar (which I can use for the BMV now as it needs to talk to the color control)


I will throw my 2 cents now that you have decided, bought and installed batteries.

There is no question (IMO) Lithium is worth the effort and $$ especially for someone who uses his stuff un-plugged as much as you do.

Significantly more "available" amp hour compared to AGM (LIPO goes 80% DOD and AGM is only 50% DOD) with your 500AHs that is 150AH more, this "extra" capacity in and of itself is more than capable to "heat" themselves when needed AND still have more power available.
Significant reduction in weight
Significant increase in duty cycles

Again only worth 2 cents, carry on.
I do like the Victron stuff!
I agree the Litium is great, but I am not quite ready to jump on that bandwagon yet. I have a feeling it will get better.

I would also have to redo everything to go lithium. Heated battery box, dedicated DC-DC charger, BMS, reconfigure the space fr the batteries etc.

The other thing with lithium, they claim long life, high duty cycles etc, but there have not really been any long term tests done. The tech just hasn't been widely in use long enough yet to have good data.
 

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I agree the Litium is great, but I am not quite ready to jump on that bandwagon yet. I have a feeling it will get better.

I would also have to redo everything to go lithium. Heated battery box, dedicated DC-DC charger, BMS, reconfigure the space fr the batteries etc.

The other thing with lithium, they claim long life, high duty cycles etc, but there have not really been any long term tests done. The tech just hasn't been widely in use long enough yet to have good data.
I agree on the lack of "proof" of duty cycle but I also really like they will take a charge at high rate and you can stop and start charge cycles. Get a standalone 200amp alternator ran through a balmar multi stage regulator with the lifePo4 program then when you need it just fire up the truck for a bit and give them a zap on top of solar and or inverter charger.

Now I am rambling and trying to justify it for myself.

Anyway I do like the 6 volt series as well, the other obstacle I had was in a slide in camper the battery compartment is out at the perimeter wall above the bed rail so support for 4-500AH of AGM was a bit lacking.

On another note is your box composite panel construction?
Looking at next rig to be a bit bigger and the composite boxes look very interesting. Maybe a freightliner M2 cummins L9 4x4 with a 20' box and a slide or two! A guy can always dream.

Keep the adventures with your family and the pics coming!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,656
I agree on the lack of "proof" of duty cycle but I also really like they will take a charge at high rate and you can stop and start charge cycles. Get a standalone 200amp alternator ran through a balmar multi stage regulator with the lifePo4 program then when you need it just fire up the truck for a bit and give them a zap on top of solar and or inverter charger.

Now I am rambling and trying to justify it for myself.

Anyway I do like the 6 volt series as well, the other obstacle I had was in a slide in camper the battery compartment is out at the perimeter wall above the bed rail so support for 4-500AH of AGM was a bit lacking.

On another note is your box composite panel construction?
Looking at next rig to be a bit bigger and the composite boxes look very interesting. Maybe a freightliner M2 cummins L9 4x4 with a 20' box and a slide or two! A guy can always dream.

Keep the adventures with your family and the pics coming!
My box is all aluminum. 1/8" skin with ribs every 12"
 

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If I'm understanding correctly, you set the charging parameters for your battery specs. Does your charger have an option to program it for the battery profile and temperature compensation?

For our bus, I've bought Midnite Solar KID chargers, Battle Born batteries, and Schneider Conext 4024. I think I remember reading that the inverter/charger controller has a screen tab and the charge controllers have an option for the battery profile so that it knows exactly the type, DOD, high-low voltage specs, et. to measure and display the battery bank conditions.

I did read through a bunch of the Victron manuals a couple years ago. Imagine their equipment has the same or better options. Brain is pretty fuzzy today so I could be blowing smoke. You should be able to make a quick selection of battery type and find a settings tab or something to refine the specs.
 

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Alright smart people...... Help me out here.

Installed batteries, charger etc. Set the charge profile to what the battery mfg speed. 14.7 bulk, and I don't remember float... According to the meter it was full, taking in no more Power(plugged in for a couple days).

We took it out this weekend, and by this morning batteries were dipping to 12.0 under load.... Shunt showed 95ah drawn out, and ~87% left (set at 500ah).

Battery temp was 39.8F (on the closet ones, the outer wall may be a little colder, but there is an air gap there)

WTF is going on??

And otherwise the weekend was pretty damn decent.

There are a couple of issues you have working against you.

First, the voltage reading for SOC should be resting, little to no current draw for 30? minutes.

Secondly the 39F battery temp is a problem, because you are already dropping to 87% capacity. You don't get to use the 50% from the 87% starting point because you can't go lower than the 50% SOC voltage...

Did you enter the temperature compensation settings for the batteries? At those cell temps you should have been up over 15v in bulk and floating over 14.




 

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I will throw my 2 cents now that you have decided, bought and installed batteries.

There is no question (IMO) Lithium is worth the effort and $$ especially for someone who uses his stuff un-plugged as much as you do.

Significantly more "available" amp hour compared to AGM (LIPO goes 80% DOD and AGM is only 50% DOD) with your 500AHs that is 150AH more, this "extra" capacity in and of itself is more than capable to "heat" themselves when needed AND still have more power available.
Significant reduction in weight
Significant increase in duty cycles

Again only worth 2 cents, carry on.
I do like the Victron stuff!
Have you seen any info on battery warming current consumption.
I was thinking if the batteries are in a 2" XPS insulated box, how much current would it take to keep them warm?

Duct in some hot air off the webasto, or the ideal run some hyronic grid under them would be easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,660
If I'm understanding correctly, you set the charging parameters for your battery specs. Does your charger have an option to program it for the battery profile and temperature compensation?



For our bus, I've bought Midnite Solar KID chargers, Battle Born batteries, and Schneider Conext 4024. I think I remember reading that the inverter/charger controller has a screen tab and the charge controllers have an option for the battery profile so that it knows exactly the type, DOD, high-low voltage specs, et. to measure and display the battery bank conditions.



I did read through a bunch of the Victron manuals a couple years ago. Imagine their equipment has the same or better options. Brain is pretty fuzzy today so I could be blowing smoke. You should be able to make a quick selection of battery type and find a settings tab or something to refine the specs.
Yes charger is all setup for the batteries, to the mfg charging spec.


There are a couple of issues you have working against you.



First, the voltage reading for SOC should be resting, little to no current draw for 30? minutes.



Secondly the 39F battery temp is a problem, because you are already dropping to 87% capacity. You don't get to use the 50% from the 87% starting point because you can't go lower than the 50% SOC voltage...



Did you enter the temperature compensation settings for the batteries? At those cell temps you should have been up over 15v in bulk and floating over 14.









Was 12.2 ish no draw.

No SOC is not temp corrected. I may be able to get the temp probé to talk to the bmv. Researching....

No charging was done at those Temps. And I will take a look, as they were 9c (43 ish) at home, but most charging was done on the drive.

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