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Yeah I wish I had done it!!! I may rip the floor out and do it at some point.... Id probably do a tank instead of the hot water heater also. and recirc back to the water tank.

Under my floor wont work well. Its a 2x2 grid of tubing underneath. And I foamed the shit out of the bottom side too.

My thinking is laying 3/4" foam over the steel floor, routing for 3/8" tubing, and then laying a similar vinyl plank over the top. I would have to figure out door transitions, raise the fridge, and transition to under the kitchen area as I built it on top of the floor.....
I'd go with a tank too. Really efficient for your setup.

What's inside the 2x2 grid of floor frame tubing underneath? I assume the grid is all hollow square tubing welding together. This is just me and my hair-brained ideas, but I'd explore the possibility of plumbing coolant through those tubes if the ends are accessible at all. Maybe they're laid out in such a way that you could manifold two groups of them together to make a feed and return. Might need to bore through the length of one perpendicular tube to manifold all tubes together to create the full loop. That's the best way to get heat transfer that I can think of right now. I would guess that your floor plate is welded to the tubes and you already have the tubes buried in foam.

Again, that's the hamster wheel in my head spinning off its axle. I have a tendency to make everything work double duty, if not triple duty. You might have the option of utilizing the structure that already exists. Hollow tubing is a favorite of mine. It takes up space, so might as well fill it with something.
 

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I'd go with a tank too. Really efficient for your setup.

What's inside the 2x2 grid of floor frame tubing underneath? I assume the grid is all hollow square tubing welding together. This is just me and my hair-brained ideas, but I'd explore the possibility of plumbing coolant through those tubes if the ends are accessible at all. Maybe they're laid out in such a way that you could manifold two groups of them together to make a feed and return. Might need to bore through the length of one perpendicular tube to manifold all tubes together to create the full loop. That's the best way to get heat transfer that I can think of right now. I would guess that your floor plate is welded to the tubes and you already have the tubes buried in foam.

Again, that's the hamster wheel in my head spinning off its axle. I have a tendency to make everything work double duty, if not triple duty. You might have the option of utilizing the structure that already exists. Hollow tubing is a favorite of mine. It takes up space, so might as well fill it with something.
The ends are all open on the drivers and passenger side sadly. That that would be a lot of weight in the heater liquid. The tunes are 2x2.5 on 24" centers.

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The ends are all open on the drivers and passenger side sadly. That that would be a lot of weight in the heater liquid. The tunes are 2x2.5 on 24" centers.

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Had in my head a crisscross type of frame, but I gotcha now.

That would be heavy. More coolant weight than mine, even. I put in a few numbers and got around 215 pounds worth of coolant. Seems to me there would a way to set it up from underneath so you wouldn't have to redo the interior. Laying on top of the metal plate floor might be the better way to get more even heating, though.

Edit: And I'd get those tubes under the floor capped off if they aren't already. Keep the cold air out from inside them. You'll be loosing a lot of heat through those.
 

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Had in my head a crisscross type of frame, but I gotcha now.

That would be heavy. More coolant weight than mine, even. I put in a few numbers and got around 215 pounds worth of coolant. Seems to me there would a way to set it up from underneath so you wouldn't have to redo the interior. Laying on top of the metal plate floor might be the better way to get more even heating, though.

Edit: And I'd get those tubes under the floor capped off if they aren't already. Keep the cold air out from inside them. You'll be loosing a lot of heat through those.
They are mostly capped. ~1/8" open across the bottom edge of the tube IIRC

What a difference a week makes! Same place without the snow, and 65 and sunny. Absolutely gorgeous spring weather.





Nice to be out on the rocks again.
 

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Hows the BMV working out on these trips?

I finished putting in my poor mans Color GX but I think I got the shunt wired backwards because the battery stays at 100% and shows -amps when charging...

The AC panel meter works awesome though and is really going to help manage the 30 amps I have to work with.

 

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Discussion Starter #1,706 (Edited)
Hows the BMV working out on these trips?

I finished putting in my poor mans Color GX but I think I got the shunt wired backwards because the battery stays at 100% and shows -amps when charging...

The AC panel meter works awesome though and is really going to help manage the 30 amps I have to work with.

Nice! I looked at those, but wanted more amperage capacity.

It's awesome. Here is last weekend.

 

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So... Did you change anything because it looks like you got it working pretty well. Was the charging in those graphs from Solar? That doesn't look like much charging current but I guess the batteries were still full.
 

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So... Did you change anything because it looks like you got it working pretty well. Was the charging in those graphs from Solar? That doesn't look like much charging current but I guess the batteries were still full.
No changes except summer weather..... Lots of sun fully charges batteries by 11am ish usually. One big 365W panel does wonders.
 

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How big is it? I need something like less than 1/2 thick by a couple inches at most.... I'll have to look now tho, may be able to get it down by the fuse block also.

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didn't see this.

it's a bit larger than that.
about 6 long x 3-4 wide and a few inches high cause heatsinks.
 

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didn't see this.

it's a bit larger than that.
about 6 long x 3-4 wide and a few inches high cause heatsinks.
No worries. Talked to tech support at MaxxFan, Who are awesome BTW, its over voltage. Setting the charger to up the voltage as much as it does in the cold trips the fan's over voltage.
 

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Went to do brakes. Found this.....

Ideas? Still holding 80 psi. Never aired down.... Inside bead of both rears is like this. Front appear fine.



From someone else who bought the same wheel/tires, here is the insert. Could the height/thickness of the insert be causing the tire to flex further into the sidewall instead of down towards the bead more?

 

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Talked to Hutchinson, They had no real ideas. The only piece of info I got was that if they were a military order they would not have a Toyo Tire. Michelin Multi D would have been on them. They are a standard 19.5 so I cant imagine the beads are different, but maybe?

He said If I can get them open and find the part number on the runflat, he will try to see if it is compatible with the Toyo's, but I need the tire info also.

This is all very strange.....
 

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Talked to Hutchinson, They had no real ideas. The only piece of info I got was that if they were a military order they would not have a Toyo Tire. Michelin Multi D would have been on them. They are a standard 19.5 so I cant imagine the beads are different, but maybe?

He said If I can get them open and find the part number on the runflat, he will try to see if it is compatible with the Toyo's, but I need the tire info also.

This is all very strange.....
I keep looking over the pictures to see if anything stands out. Got a hunch that says the tire compound is to blame. I've seen similar deterioration on new tires on a couple other rigs in the last few months. Neither were Toyo, that I can remember. Have to look back through your thread to see how they looked after the fresh rubber. Only other thing that comes to mind is the bead being held too rigid, but aren't your fronts and rear identical?
 

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I keep looking over the pictures to see if anything stands out. Got a hunch that says the tire compound is to blame. I've seen similar deterioration on new tires on a couple other rigs in the last few months. Neither were Toyo, that I can remember. Have to look back through your thread to see how they looked after the fresh rubber. Only other thing that comes to mind is the bead being held too rigid, but aren't your fronts and rear identical?
I think it may be the thickness of the beadlock insert..... I found plenty of mention of comercial style tires wearing beads out over time.

I think the beadlock may be forcing the tire to flex more in the sidewall rather than being able to roll some on the bead.

This is what the insert looks like


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I think it may be the thickness of the beadlock insert..... I found plenty of mention of comercial style tires wearing beads out over time.

I think the beadlock may be forcing the tire to flex more in the sidewall rather than being able to roll some on the bead.

This is what the insert looks like


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Does the insert fit between the beads or is its diameter larger than the beads? If its larger, that sounds like it would be putting some odd pressure against the sidewall that would be bend the rubber right at the OD of the beads.

I was staring at the Hutchinsons on a dude's red Dodge with a huge overlander camper on it while at Home Depot a couple weeks ago. Kept thinking about asking him if I could dive underneath to take a look at them, but I had the kids with me. Never looked close enough to see what tires he had.
 

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Does the insert fit between the beads or is its diameter larger than the beads? If its larger, that sounds like it would be putting some odd pressure against the sidewall that would be bend the rubber right at the OD of the beads.

I was staring at the Hutchinsons on a dude's red Dodge with a huge overlander camper on it while at Home Depot a couple weeks ago. Kept thinking about asking him if I could dive underneath to take a look at them, but I had the kids with me. Never looked close enough to see what tires he had.
Need to break one down and see. It looks bigger to me (picture from someone else who bought the same ones).

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That sucks, any rhime or reason for it to have not split where that "flat' spot is?
Strange that the split stops right on each side?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,718 (Edited)
That sucks, any rhime or reason for it to have not split where that "flat' spot is?
Strange that the split stops right on each side?
There is a spot for stamping there. For when they are grooved or retreaded I assume

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Well I am very surprised. Toyo tech/customer support would not even talk to me about it. They said take them to your place of purchase for diagnosis... Helpful. Wouldn't even listen to what I had to say. They have a 5.5 year warranty FWIW :rolleyes:
 

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Well I am very surprised. Toyo tech/customer support would not even talk to me about it. They said take them to your place of purchase for diagnosis... Helpful. Wouldn't even listen to what I had to say. They have a 5.5 year warranty FWIW :rolleyes:
Sounds like the typical warranty inquisition call.

I can't remember where you got your tires from or who mounted them. Wouldn't hurt to take them in to a reputable commercial shop and have them document their diagnosis. Might give you some leverage on paper to warranty the rubber if it does turn out to be faulty tires. Still frustrating, regardless. Tires aren't cheap anymore.
 
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