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Discussion Starter #1
K well I swapped a 1 ton under the rear of my truck and added disk brakes to it and all that is great and I love it. My issue is my master cylinder does not. I have a D60 that will be going in the front so since my pedal is already extremely spongy now i need to address it.

What are you guys running brake master cylinder wise when running tons with disk front and rear?

I was really hoping there was a pretty simple bolt on swap that was available.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Their website doesnt show them to have anything in stock... They still in business?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hydroboost system and be done.
Considered it, but that is a lot going on and a pricey list of parts just for that to work. Really would like to keep the vac assist unless you know something I dont which is VERY likely. This is my first truck to swap tons under so this is new territory. I know my tow rig has tons and I love it, but the thought of more hydro stuff on my crawler makes me timid, but more so the price of the parts I think cause I know my current pump wont keep up as it has a hard time with the ram already. And if I do buy a new pump and res, I need something that will work with my full hydro steering I plan on in the future as I dont want to buy parts twice.

I am going to go full hydro steering, but not for a bit cause it is a fair chunk also and trying to get other axle under the front at the same time.

Me = #Lost
 

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Check out (Sky off-road design ) they have a adapter :D
 

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rockthedog posted a detailed build of the gm master onto cruiser with plate adapter. Not sure but I believe it retains the oem cruiser booster.
 

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Check my "semi budget 1ton" build thread I made an adapter pg 7 and used a 77- 82 vette mc. Raybestos #mc39052pg. Pg 10 of the thread
The first mc i used in the thread was crap disregard that. The adapter dimensions were somewhere on pirate. It ended up being almost the exact setup as the rockstomper one. It was originally a 77 cruiser booster. The junkyard replacement was a bout an 83 supra. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Check out (Sky off-road design ) they have a adapter :D
I will have to do just that, I like options.

rockthedog posted a detailed build of the gm master onto cruiser with plate adapter. Not sure but I believe it retains the oem cruiser booster.
Check my "semi budget 1ton" build thread I made an adapter pg 7 and used a 77- 82 vette mc. Raybestos #mc39052pg. Pg 10 of the thread
The first mc i used in the thread was crap disregard that. The adapter dimensions were somewhere on pirate. It ended up being almost the exact setup as the rockstomper one. It was originally a 77 cruiser booster. The junkyard replacement was a bout an 83 supra. Good luck
Awesome man, I will check that out as well. And yea I know there is not really a "budget 1 ton build" but we are on the same page.

I did that, that's where I was wondering what was up with their website as nothing at all shows to be in stock.

By the way I think we know a mutual person (friend of mine). Guy named Joel. Lives in Burleson with a blue YJ on tons.
 

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I did that, that's where I was wondering what was up with their website as nothing at all shows to be in stock.

By the way I think we know a mutual person (friend of mine). Guy named Joel. Lives in Burleson with a blue YJ on tons.
I know Joel (klingon). Try calling Scott @ Rockstomper. I've never had problems getting parts/support/service from him.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I know Joel (klingon). Try calling Scott @ Rockstomper. I've never had problems getting parts/support/service from him.
I was talking about another Joel, the one I was referring to is a jeeper. I figured you knew the other Joel (kling-on) who lives in san antonio.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
FYI I bought a 77 corvette master cylinder for the truck and was given an adapter that Vance (cougar bait) made.

I tried to get ahold of rockstomper up there via the # listed on the website and it was a disconnected number. So I presume they are out of business or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I guess I should have been more clear.

I got it all together with what I have.

However I did read the thread you linked and I did the same thing you did out back, ran the 8800 GVW calipers cause (my thoughts) bigger is better. Well as it would turn out the rear brake portion of most master cylinders cannot move enough fluid to the massive pistons. Initially I had my lines backwards and I was EASILY able to lock up the rears and nearly nothing up front (stock CUCV 1 ton GM calipers), I switched the lines to the proper brake circuits and can now lock up my 39.5x18-15 boggers (takes a heavy foot, but still thats a tough feat when tire only is 110 lbs!) at 35mph. Now I am still running the massive 8800 GVW GM D44 front calipers out back and I cannot lock up the rears but I can still feel them working.

I took the rig out last weekend and after a few hours I noticed my pedal felt a little different so I stomped on the brake pedal at about 30 mph and I locked up all 4. Now that was on DIRT and not asphalt, but I am thinking there may have been a small air bubble somewhere that may have worked its self out even tho I ran nearly a full quart of fluid through the rear circuit alone.

No matter they work better than they ever did and I was able to retain the factory brake booster on my 85 Toyota Land Cruiser. AND the master cylinder I chose had a "shallow" spot for the push rod which was pretty much perfect after the thickness of the adapter was added in. The factory master is much deeper than the GM one I used so I didnt have to make any extended rods or anything like that as I have seen people have to do before.

All in all I am pretty happy with it all. I may go back later and switch to the smaller calipers (the standard 76ish GM D44 6800 GVW front caliper) as it would require less fluid, and even tho it wouldnt have the same clamping power as the larger piston it would likely still work better since it would pressure up sooner.

A cool thing I noticed during this process is the pads between the two calipers will swap with one another and bolt holes are all the same. so if I went to smaller piston caliper I could still run the larger surface area brake pads.

Again, right now I am satisfied and dont really see myself messing with it and spending more money on something that is all basically brand new and working better than the factory disk / drum setup (even when properly adjusted) ever could even pretend to do. :grinpimp:
 
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