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Yeah. I was daydreaming last night.

I would love to buy a full set and build one of my Tomahawks with a 4cyl TJ and leave everything stock. I have a thread somewhere on here about the theoretical use of these on stock Jeep 30/35 axles. You actually need the 27 spline boxes to do it.

I have way too much going on right now to devote the time. But I think I'll ear mark the project in my head for now. I definitely want to do something simple like this when I get my Juggy finished up. I have to finish my Tomahawk I already started first too.

I'm a perpetual project starter trying to be better about being a project finisher. Shut like this gets me in trouble though.
 

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Yeah. I was daydreaming last night.

I would love to buy a full set and build one of my Tomahawks with a 4cyl TJ and leave everything stock. I have a thread somewhere on here about the theoretical use of these on stock Jeep 30/35 axles. You actually need the 27 spline boxes to do it.

I have way too much going on right now to devote the time. But I think I'll ear mark the project in my head for now. I definitely want to do something simple like this when I get my Juggy finished up. I have to finish my Tomahawk I already started first too.

I'm a perpetual project starter trying to be better about being a project finisher. Shut like this gets me in trouble though.
There was a crawl mag with a tj that was more or less stock with Volvo portals added. It would be cool too see one with stock axles and hummer boxes added on. You get the "lift" for ~37-39s, the gearing for crawling and the strength increase in the axles, all in one shot. The stupid high r&p that stock jeeps come with would even work well with the portals. When you look at it that way, the price doesn't look too bad.

The only problem is the cracker jack axle housings.

Im not a huge fan of jk's but it would be interesting to see this concept added to a stock one. Basically add lockers, portals and tires.

Heck, really any rig now that I think of it. ZJ/WJ or even a 3rd or 4th gen 4runner.
 

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There was a crawl mag with a tj that was more or less stock with Volvo portals added. It would be cool too see one with stock axles and hummer boxes added on. You get the "lift" for ~37-39s, the gearing for crawling and the strength increase in the axles, all in one shot. The stupid high r&p that stock jeeps come with would even work well with the portals. When you look at it that way, the price doesn't look too bad.

The only problem is the cracker jack axle housings.

Im not a huge fan of jk's but it would be interesting to see this concept added to a stock one. Basically add lockers, portals and tires.

Heck, really any rig now that I think of it. ZJ/WJ or even a 3rd or 4th gen 4runner.
74 weld is going to make bolt on jk portals. I’m sure they won’t be cheap, but that market isn’t about being cheap.
 

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Get Off My Lawn
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There was a crawl mag with a tj that was more or less stock with Volvo portals added. It would be cool too see one with stock axles and hummer boxes added on. You get the "lift" for ~37-39s, the gearing for crawling and the strength increase in the axles, all in one shot. The stupid high r&p that stock jeeps come with would even work well with the portals. When you look at it that way, the price doesn't look too bad.

The only problem is the cracker jack axle housings.

Im not a huge fan of jk's but it would be interesting to see this concept added to a stock one. Basically add lockers, portals and tires.

Heck, really any rig now that I think of it. ZJ/WJ or even a 3rd or 4th gen 4runner.
The big issue is having to flip the housings. You'd be building a trailer queen. The thing about doing this to my Tomahawk chassis is the sprung weight. My chassis are about 500-600lbs. The way I figure, you can just cut the factory front housing at 4" out from the center section, flip the diff and then use the Synergy sleeve kit to weld the housing back together. 4:11 is the factory 4cyl TJ ratio. No need for an SYE with the portals and flipped low pinion diffs. 27 spline stubs fit right into the portal boxes. You'd just have to get the U-joint lined up in the C/knuckle. I'm pretty sure JHF outers would work. Chopping down some long side front axles in the rear seemed like a solution that would work for a light weight, low power rig.

Everything about the project seems fun to me. I'm way more about trying odd ball light weight/small stuff out than I am about building won ton tanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
A 4 gear portal like axletech/dynatrac would keep from flipping diff which is only way to make it a bolt on option.


If anyone who bought some $200 ones from trailworthy wants to sell them and make some $$$ let me know.
 

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74 weld is going to make bolt on jk portals. I’m sure they won’t be cheap, but that market isn’t about being cheap.
if he does make em for the jk and jl, he will be a rich rich man
 

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Get Off My Lawn
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if he does make em for the jk and jl, he will be a rich rich man
My only fear would be utilizing the stock inner C and ball joints. Even with gussets and after market ball joints. They're going to have a pretty nasty failure rate with that much scrub radius and leverage on such a big tire and heavy vehicle. It's pretty common for JKU's to be 6000 lbs or more.
 

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The big issue is having to flip the housings. You'd be building a trailer queen. The thing about doing this to my Tomahawk chassis is the sprung weight. My chassis are about 500-600lbs. The way I figure, you can just cut the factory front housing at 4" out from the center section, flip the diff and then use the Synergy sleeve kit to weld the housing back together. 4:11 is the factory 4cyl TJ ratio. No need for an SYE with the portals and flipped low pinion diffs. 27 spline stubs fit right into the portal boxes. You'd just have to get the U-joint lined up in the C/knuckle. I'm pretty sure JHF outers would work. Chopping down some long side front axles in the rear seemed like a solution that would work for a light weight, low power rig.

Everything about the project seems fun to me. I'm way more about trying odd ball light weight/small stuff out than I am about building won ton tanks.
I totally spaced on the diff flip when I typed that out. Still not impossible to keep the same concept, but definitely more work.

I don't think it would have to be a trailer queen with some thought put into it. Obviously you would need some low 3.xx gears for any real highway driving. But I know the Toyotas at least ~6.20s gets you back to stock for 40s. So factory 3.42s would work. You would have to build oil slingers, but thats been done before also.
 

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Get Off My Lawn
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I totally spaced on the diff flip when I typed that out. Still not impossible to keep the same concept, but definitely more work.

I don't think it would have to be a trailer queen with some thought put into it. Obviously you would need some low 3.xx gears for any real highway driving. But I know the Toyotas at least ~6.20s gets you back to stock for 40s. So factory 3.42s would work. You would have to build oil slingers, but thats been done before also.
My solution would be a decent oil slinger setup on the front with 3.07 or 3.21 (if you went JK) gears. Then just run one of my heavy shaved dana 44's or 60's and some 5.89 or 6.17 gears for the rear. With the 2.5 and 37's I think letting 'er scream at 3500rpm down the highway would work out best anyway. :laughing:
 

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The way I figure, you can just cut the factory front housing at 4" out from the center section, flip the diff and then use the Synergy sleeve kit to weld the housing back together.
Fuck that, theres tons of chevy 10 bolt fronts laying around, flip the bitch for drivers side drop and reversing the gears, plenty of axle tube to lop off the inner Cs and add whatever C you want to match the portal, and get the correct width without splicing axle tubes together
 

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Fuck that, theres tons of chevy 10 bolt fronts laying around, flip the bitch for drivers side drop and reversing the gears, plenty of axle tube to lop off the inner Cs and add whatever C you want to match the portal, and get the correct width without splicing axle tubes together
You probably don't know the principal behind my chassis. The idea is that you bolt everything from a XJ/ZJ/TJ into it and it makes a budget friendly, very small lightweight buggy. With the stock 61" wide axles, 35's and a 102" wheelbase, it's scaled down.

I don't understand why you'd need to switch the dana 30 to a 10bolt. These buggies already make dana 30's live with 35's and 37's without the reduction of portals and with the heavier/more powerful 4.0.

My whole goal with portals and the dana 30 was to prove they would live under hardcore use with big tires. Even though I've proven several times you don't need big tires for hardcore wheeling.

I definitely understand that I build unconventional stuff that most people think won't work.

For reference this is a Tomahawk on stock axles and 37's. There is plenty of room in the design to shove the axle up into the chassis a few more inches.
 

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You probably don't know the principal behind my chassis. The idea is that you bolt everything from a XJ/ZJ/TJ into it and it makes a budget friendly, very small lightweight buggy. With the stock 61" wide axles, 35's and a 102" wheelbase, it's scaled down.

I don't understand why you'd need to switch the dana 30 to a 10bolt. These buggies already make dana 30's live with 35's and 37's without the reduction of portals and with the heavier/more powerful 4.0.

My whole goal with portals and the dana 30 was to prove they would live under hardcore use with big tires. Even though I've proven several times you don't need big tires for hardcore wheeling.

I definitely understand that I build unconventional stuff that most people think won't work.

For reference this is a Tomahawk on stock axles and 37's. There is plenty of room in the design to shove the axle up into the chassis a few more inches.
Flipping the axle and sleeving the tubed together doesn't sound very bolt in :flipoff2: I was thinking to save a lot of work with flipping and changing the tube lengths being passenger side drop.

Would the bolt on portals work better, sure! H1 2 gear? Massive amounts of fuckery
 

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Get Off My Lawn
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Flipping the axle and sleeving the tubed together doesn't sound very bolt in :flipoff2: I was thinking to save a lot of work with flipping and changing the tube lengths being passenger side drop.

Would the bolt on portals work better, sure! H1 2 gear? Massive amounts of fuckery
Meh, if you can build a portal housing, flipping the center section seems like the easy part if using off the shelf sleeves. Lol

I get your point now.
 

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Yeah. I was daydreaming last night.

I would love to buy a full set and build one of my Tomahawks with a 4cyl TJ and leave everything stock. I have a thread somewhere on here about the theoretical use of these on stock Jeep 30/35 axles. You actually need the 27 spline boxes to do it.

.
I can get you some 10k upper bull gears and Good stock C/Vs since they get tossed when I do some of Jesse's H1 boxes as all of his get converted to the bigger spline.

I believe the inner shafts are all the same, I don't know what the stock diameter is for a d30 but so long as it can be machined down to 1.15" and splined you are golden.
 

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JHF is building comp cars with toyota 8" diffs with the Hummer portals now and making them live with 42" tires full of water. I believe someone is even building one with samurai size diffs now. :rolleyes:

A small ring gear housing isn't a bad idea at all, finding a housing that is strong enough to take the leverage from the portal end is the hard part. JHF is using a new 3.5" tube trail gear fabbed housing now.
 

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I can get you some 10k upper bull gears and Good stock C/Vs since they get tossed when I do some of Jesse's H1 boxes as all of his get converted to the bigger spline.

I believe the inner shafts are all the same, I don't know what the stock diameter is for a d30 but so long as it can be machined down to 1.15" and splined you are golden.
We went over all this together about 10 years ago. It was determined then that on paper it would work. But I'd be thrilled to physically put some together.
 
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