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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seeing as how my rig was starting to sound like a broken sherman tank and people in traffic were giving me weird looks ( different from the normal weird looks :D ) It was time for me to crawl under the truck and tighten the y-pipe to down pipe nuts ( or replace the gasket as well ).. So 40 minutes of choice words later and an apropriate amount of exhaust rust in hair, eyes ect...
I finally get it all sorted.... I fire her up, and it still sounds terrible :confused: I crawl back under and verify all is tight...
I then start having bad thoughts.... I put header tape on the stock headers a few years ago to help keep the supercharger and engine bay cooler.... Sure enough... I take the tape off and the header is cracked ( almost al the way around!!! )

So, I don't want to spend a zillion bucks on it, these are my options as I see it:

Get it welded ( has anyone had success with this ? )

Get a new part ( GAG! $$$ @ stealership or 3rd party )

Go with real headers ( But I live in Kalifornia and I still have to pass smog, and keep both O2 sensors and cats... can this be done easily ( by welding said parts on after the headers ? ) )

The rig is a 97
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Old Scout said:
Wrap=ROT. What no mig? :rolleyes: :flipoff2:
Acutally I do have a mig with gas attach, but before I jumped into it I wanted to hear others thought ( ya know convince me to get real headers or something stupid :flipoff2: )

Plus the stock headers are cast iron ( I think ) and last time I welded cast ( using inner core shielded wire with out gas ) it kinda was a pain and looked like the booger man welded it.
 

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Trying to MIG weld cast iron pot metal will be a temporary fix at best. Cast iron takes a more specialized filler than the mild steel wire in a MIG. I would either replace the whole thing or take it to a professional welder. If it's accessible they may be able to stick weld it with a specialized stick electrode for cast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Fear Factory said:
Trying to MIG weld cast iron pot metal will be a temporary fix at best. Cast iron takes a more specialized filler than the mild steel wire in a MIG. I would either replace the whole thing or take it to a professional welder. If it's accessible they may be able to stick weld it with a specialized stick electrode for cast.
Thats kinda what I heard. I have a stick welder also, but I'm much better with the mig! Everytime I use the stick welder... It just "sticks" to whatever I weld, I figure thats how it got its name :p

Would a muffler place have the right setup, or should I find just a profesional welder?
 

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Tom,

I have a pair of stock exhaust manifolds (same thing as headers right???) for the 4.2.

I could get them ceramic coated and send them out to you if you ended up wanting to stick with stock parts.

Lemme know....I could even have them ported to give you that additional .03 horsepower. :flipoff2:
 

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Have you tried the coat hanger / battery approach? :flipoff2:

I encountered somthing similar this past summer with the wife's BMW. A trip to a local welder and $20 later it was done.

-Jeff

Edit: I did try to weld it up with a stick welder, but it was too tight where the two pipes came together, and leaked there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Serious One said:
Tom,

I have a pair of stock exhaust manifolds (same thing as headers right???) for the 4.2.

I could get them ceramic coated and send them out to you if you ended up wanting to stick with stock parts.

Lemme know....I could even have them ported to give you that additional .03 horsepower. :flipoff2:
HMMM, an intersting thought! I presume they are bolt compatible with the 4.0? How much to get here, coated and ported?

Also do you still have that 3.5L water pump? I'm about to bolt all the ancilleraries onto the 3.5L block I just got back from rebuild, and my water pumps kinda in need of replacing?

I'm having wicked thoughts of putting it in the series :D
 

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tomw said:


Thats kinda what I heard. I have a stick welder also, but I'm much better with the mig! Everytime I use the stick welder... It just "sticks" to whatever I weld, I figure thats how it got its name :p

Would a muffler place have the right setup, or should I find just a profesional welder?
Ever since getting a MIG and a TIG I haven't touched the stick welder BUT there are some things it's good at. Sticks work there's no doubt but can be frustrating especially if trying to weld in a tight spot. You'll end up touching the frame and be welded to it or some such scenario.

Most muffler shops I've been to have a MIG and that's all. I'd try a pro welder long before a muffler shop.
 

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I am an old fart and old school as well....I always brazed cast iron as a young man. V out and clean good using oxy and ace with brass filler rod was the old way but also strong and resilient as hell. I have done many manifolds and castings in general that was fixed and forgotton. Drill a hole each end of the crack so you dont chase the crack is wise. Just another opinion.
 

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put headmans on it and the register it in nevada or green sticker it and forget about it:flipoff2: :flipoff2: I guess welding it is the sensible thing to do but the headers do make a difference and it sounds really good especially when you just have the headers on and are shooting flames out the back.

-ben
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
m016324 said:
put headmans on it and the register it in nevada or green sticker it and forget about it:flipoff2: :flipoff2: I guess welding it is the sensible thing to do but the headers do make a difference and it sounds really good especially when you just have the headers on and are shooting flames out the back.

-ben
thats the most sensable answer I've heard all day :D
 
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