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Discussion Starter #1
I just swapped a buick 225 out of a 69 commando onto a sm420 in my flat fender. Every thing bolted up great and I reused the clutch that was on the new moter because it was still in good shape. The master cylinder is freshly rebuilt and I threw on a new slave cylinder to, everything is bled and seems to work properly. Ok now the problem, I cant get the clutch to disengage from the fly wheel :mad: Has anyone had this problem? do I need a different clutch? the slave cylinder has about 3/4" to 1" of movement is that enough. Help
 

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Weezer said:
I just swapped a buick 225 out of a 69 commando onto a sm420 in my flat fender. Every thing bolted up great and I reused the clutch that was on the new moter because it was still in good shape. The master cylinder is freshly rebuilt and I threw on a new slave cylinder to, everything is bled and seems to work properly. Ok now the problem, I cant get the clutch to disengage from the fly wheel :mad: Has anyone had this problem? do I need a different clutch? the slave cylinder has about 3/4" to 1" of movement is that enough. Help
You have to watch for a mismatched throw out bearing. There are 3 lengths, they match one of 3 depth pressure plates. What engine did you have previously? Also what tranny/bellhousing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: Re: Buick 225 to SM420: clutch problems

mike said:


You have to watch for a mismatched throw out bearing. There are 3 lengths, they match one of 3 depth pressure plates. What engine did you have previously? Also what tranny/bellhousing?
The old engine was a buick 198 but I didnt reuse any of the clutch parts off that moter because it was all smaller. The bell housing came with the 225 and I belive it was bolted to a manual tranny when it lived in the commando. The throw out bearing on the 225 is longer then the one off the old 198.
 

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This might help -

I went from a 225 to a T-18 tranny. The original pilot bearing got all ate to hell because the shaft was not completely engaged. I ended up using an old Ford (60's ?) pilot. It is easy to identify because it has about 1.25" O.D. I machined it down slightly to fit in the larger diameter hole in the flywheel.

I used a Centerforce clutch for a Commando.

I didn't have clutch engagement problems but did eat up the seal on the tranny side of the input.

No problems now. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
New pilot, I spent 20 minutes at napa getting the rite one
 

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Park your front bumper against a tree and push the clutch in. Sometimes after you install a new clutch plate it takes a little extra to get it to release the first time. I had to do this on my 231/T18 the last time I changed the disc, no idea why
 

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Discussion Starter #7
oldjeep said:
Park your front bumper against a tree and push the clutch in. Sometimes after you install a new clutch plate it takes a little extra to get it to release the first time. I had to do this on my 231/T18 the last time I changed the disc, no idea why
Ill give that a try thanks for the tip.
 

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So when you say you reused the old clutch does that mean the flywheel too? Or just the pressure plate and friction disk? What did the slave cylinder come from? If I had to take a guess it sounds like the slave isn't stroking enough. I know my 350/420 strokes more than 3/4 to 1"
 

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the distance from pivot point to where slave cylinder attaches to fork that operates bearing also determines amount of total travel of bearing and effort required to push petal to operate clutch- also fluid capacity and surface area of slave cylinder compared to fluid capacityand surface area of master cylinder also determines pedal effort and amount of travel on fork. hydraulic clutch con be tricky- make sure you have the right length throw-out bearing 1st and there is nothing wrong with pressure-plate if that checks out o.k you probably dont have enough travel on bearing to make clutch disengage.also make sure all air is bled out of system air will compress costing you travel on your fork. hope this helps you with your problem-i've had to fix similar problem with my vehicle....
 
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