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Discussion Starter #1
To start, my current setup is
95 yj, 2.5, ax5, 231
SUA 30/35 combo, 4.88's, lockrites, 33 at's

where I want to be
SOA, axles (open to suggestions), 5.13's, arb's, 35's

For the front, I currently have an eb d44 laying around with the welded wedges, low pinion. I don't have any of the outers, just bare spindles from the knuckles out.
I could cut the wedges off, weld on perches. Maybe go with chevy outers? (opinions, please). I think the wms will be around 58"? considering all I'd need are the outers, brakes, arb, r&p and install kit, seems like it'd be a good way to go.

For the rear, I have a scout II d44 that I got for really cheap. all it needs are brakes. it's still in the stock sua setup, so I'd cut off perches and weld on SOA perches. Again, beside the brakes, all I'd need are the arb, r&p and install kit. Not sure what the wms would be and wondering if I should think about a spacer?


Because I've got these in hand already, it seems like it'd be worth a shot to build these axles and see how it goes. I'm not too concerned about breaking shafts. I've learned to finesse my way around with my current setup and have never broken anything with my current setup having wheeled it through Rubicon and Fordyce several times. I think the d44 would be ok with my driving style.


Am I missing something on these axle plans? anything jump out at you?
 

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For what a D44 housing costs, it's not worth dealing with the EB stuff. The scout rear has really thin tubes - better off starting with something else.
 

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x2 on oldjeep

The outers will cost as much as a junkyard axle would.
 

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on my 93 I ran both front and rear 86 waggy axles (stock everything). I wish the front was HP but it worked great with 37's, 4.88's and ARB's. I wouldn't use the rear out of the scout. as far as the outters I would go get some chevy stuff because the stuff is cheep and easy to find. good luck hope this helps
 

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For what a D44 housing costs, it's not worth dealing with the EB stuff. The scout rear has really thin tubes - better off starting with something else.
x3. Really thin tubes, maybe what, 1/4"? You can always truss it though?
 

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Waggy front,rodeo rear will give you the most bang for the buk.The front is almost a bolt in and you gain factory disc brakes in the rear.
 

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I run a Scout 44 rear with stock shafts, 35's, and an Aussie locker. No problems yet. I'm not heavy on the skinny pedal either. I would like to truss it in the future though. For the front I run a chevy 44 narrowed 4" on the long side and run a stock 80's waggy shaft for all stock parts. I do have alloy shafts for the rear if I ever break the stockers, and am collecting alloys for the front too. Plan to run 37's in the future.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the input guys. I think I'll run the eb d44 in front. I'm starting to lean away from the scout d44 though. I'll do some digging around for a Rodeo d44, anyone know right off hand what bolt pattern they run and wms? (i know, i know, that's what the search button is for) If they match the 5x5.5, it would seem like a no brainer if the wms is close?
 

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I ran that exact combo for a bunch of years, EB front and Scout rear.



Worked like a champ. On the front I ran CJ knuckles, scout spindles and brakes, a shortened Scout long side shaft, Chevy short shaft, and Scout outers. It was all stuff I had and just made it work. 5.38 gears and Aussie lockers, good to go.

The only real downside to the EB front is it's low pinion. You'll be doing yourself a real favor if you cut and turn it to get the driveshaft up out of the rocks.

If you already have the housings, use em.

Since you are building a 4 banger, go deep with the gears, and also look into adding an inertia ring to the flywheel. There's a long thread in the HC Jeep section about swapping in an AX15 or NV3550 tranny which will let you run a doubler and D300 transfer case pretty easy like which will be perfect behind the lil motor.
 
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