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Harvester of Sorrow said:
Ohhh and if your ever coming up to the PNW for your business...Micro's :beer: are on me
You never offered me a micro :beer:
So do I have to get my shiat running before you offer me a cold one?
:D

Oh yea - almost forgot - i don't drink beer. :flipoff2:

OS - your rig is looking sweeeeeeeeeet - wished mine looked closer to that.
 

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IH/Rover Moderator
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Discussion Starter #22
I give up!



Finding a cheap D60 front! :( The market seemed to be at the $1200-1400 range at this time. So I Said fawk it and bought this Chebby D44 for $125.00


I went with a reverse shackle on 44044s. I needed to make some short frame extensions.


This moved my axle forward 4.5" It should help the drag link oil pan clearance.



I did the common Ford 5x5.5 small spindle outer swap. I went with Parts Mike Super arms and Warn Premium hubs. I'm in shock on how cheap chebby and Ford brake parts are!


Approach angle is looking very nice. Definite saws all use needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
The electrical system seems to have taken a life of it's own.

I made a junction box for the pass side rear, next to the tail gate. I terminated the harness here and made a separate harness to go to the tail lights, blinkers, 55w back ups, rear rock lights. There is an 8G feed to the post in the lower right. Back up and rock lights will be on relays and get there power from the high amp feed.


I cut out the upper inner fenders and mounted two batts in the pass side. I used a Blue Sea cut off switch and a Painless solenoid to control the voltage flow.


The console is starting to look complete:


Stock IH drag link next to a 1.25" Dom drag link :eek:
 

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IH/Rover Moderator
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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Disaster strikes again!!! :( I was up at the cabin and a ground squirrel made a nest in one of the walls. It used the insulation off of the wires for it's nest. Major house fire. I spent two hours on oxygen from smoke inhalation. Everything is soaking wet and black!

Cabin is a huge mess. To make a long story short, we get fawked by State Farm Insurance and have to do 60% of the repairs ourselves. I spend every weekend for next six months rebuilding. It was like camping out with my father and brother.
No:
kitchen
bathroom
shower
heat
beds

Back to scout building.
I found this little gem one day at Pic and pull. It's a Subaru electric power steering pump. I thought it would be cool to have assisted steering with the engine not running. :cool2:


I started working on my oil system upgrades. Since it's a known weak link, I built a few strange things.
I need to add a oil cooler and thought a remote filter would be nice. I put the filter were the old P/S pump was:



I used Sertab oil coolers out of a Turbo Volvo. there only 12.00 from pick and pull. I mounted two of them in the drivers side inner fender. One for engine oil and the other for the P/S fluid. I made a supply manifold for cool air for them. It has a 1000CFM electric blower that pulls cool air from behind the headlamp.


Here is an early mock up. . It's much more compact now. I suck and aluminum welding!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Built a new rear bumper. I used a spring hanger off of a Frieghtliner for my tire carrier and made bumperetts that attach to the floor of the bed that help protect the quarters



I needed a spare and 37" MTRs were 50.00 less than BFGs. So I bought an MTR and 17" US Wheel and a DIY MRW 40 bolt beadlock kit. The thing tips the scale at 132lbs! :eek:


The carrier I built.

The hinge. Hinge pin is a grade 8 1.25" bolt. The spring hanger in forged aluminum with a hard bronze liner.


With my large wheel wells I could run the rear shocks vertical for maxium roll control.
 

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IH/Rover Moderator
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Discussion Starter #28
I didn't want some old worn out oil pump , so my only choice was getting a new P/U pump and modding it to fit.


I never liked having a O-ring seal a sucton side of a pump, so it was going to be NPT for me. I reworked the bypass return and the inlet for a rear sump pan.


I started on my custom 7 QT beefy oil pan. It will have a windage tray and oil traps. I'm going to use a sight glass in the side of the pan to eliminate the water intrusion from the stupid rubber dip stick flange .
 

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Old Scout said:
I started on my custom 7 QT beefy oil pan. It will have a windage tray and oil traps. I'm going to use a sight glass in the side of the pan to eliminate the water intrusion from the stupid rubber dip stick flange .
I really like this idea, Robert. How are you going to determine how high the fluid level in the pan should be? Also, what are you planning to use for a sight glass? An external tube, or something integral to the pan like on a bike?
 

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IH/Rover Moderator
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Discussion Starter #31
Ben Segrest said:
I really like this idea, Robert. How are you going to determine how high the fluid level in the pan should be? Also, what are you planning to use for a sight glass? An external tube, or something integral to the pan like on a bike?
The stock pan is full with ~1" of oil over the pick-up. The sight glass will cover a range of 3.5 qts so I'm not to worried about finding the correct level right off.

 

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IH/Rover Moderator
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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
I built this ugly POS out of aluminum. It was just too fugly to keep, but I think it was on the BB last week and receiving great praise. :shaking:


I liked the aluminum and cut it down, but still didn't want to keep it.
I had cut the fenders and installed 2" LED side markers.



The truck had the factory cooler and I thought it might need a little help. You can see the blower for the engine oil/PS coolers on the right.


My local industrial surplus had these 180mm 12VDC fans for 3.00 ea.


I mounted them behind the cooler. They move a suprizing amount of air.


I started on a real bumper/winch mount. I needed to replace the turn signals and LEDs added a little bling.


Some more Bling with some diamond plate and lights, plus a high amp 12V plug in.
 

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:eek: :idea: Oh my goodness ~ I just realized that I've seen that bumper in person ~ It may have been Hollister Hills 99 or Tulare 99 ~ not sure...maybe since then...not sure.
 

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Bought scout, four years later, still never wheeled.

Bought disco, 3 hours of mods later, wheeling.

There is a lesson somewhere . . .

:flipoff2:

BTW if you take off the cross bars it will be quieter in the disco.

OTOH I bought a scout, 10 minutes later I was wheeling, I bought a rover and it took me six months to get it together. The current rover is pushing your record.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Snoopy said:
:eek: :idea: Oh my goodness ~ I just realized that I've seen that bumper in person ~ It may have been Hollister Hills 99 or Tulare 99 ~ not sure...maybe since then...not sure.
Wasn't me. I got my idea from Wild Horses EB supply:
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
evilfij said:
Bought scout, four years later, still never wheeled.

Bought disco, 3 hours of mods later, wheeling.

There is a lesson somewhere . . .

:flipoff2:

BTW if you take off the cross bars it will be quieter in the disco.

OTOH I bought a scout, 10 minutes later I was wheeling, I bought a rover and it took me six months to get it together. The current rover is pushing your record.
3hrs :eek: :eek: , It took me 3 hours to build the long travel rear shock mounts.

The cross bars were needed for that trip. The canoe was back at camp :flipoff2:



You have a Scout? :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
I had a client ask me to rebuild a control panel for him. I open the box and was happy to see Clippard parts. I ordered up the replacement parts for him and pick up what I needed for my ARB controls to boot.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/uploads/arb-control.jpg

I then took a small project box and made my ARB control panel for my console.


Started to work on painting her. I stripped the whole rig down to bare metal. I used heavy duty paint stripper. It took about six hours to do the whole rig. I found rust under the factory IH primer! :shaking: I killed the rust by washing the rig in Phosphoric acid.

The hood after I removed the factory paint:


The hood after I has washed the middle with some H3po4



I shot a coat of self ecthing Zinc Cromate primer, then a marine epoxie barrier primer.





The color coat is Dupont industrial polyurethane, Imron 333. It's cheap and tough. I had it tinted Land Rover Arles Blue.



 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Up to date! This is current stuff from here on out.

I sold off the 2001 Chebby van seats I had mounted and bought a set of PRP from from Rock Buggy Supply. Dumpped the doors for a set of SSII inserts. Added a cheapy stripe and some rubber flares.
Started my cold air intake.





Oh yea I picked up these Superior Cro-Mo axles for my whimpy D44. I put a set of OX u-joints in them.
 

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The flares look gay, and so does the ARB sticker......oh yea, and its still a Scout :flipoff2:

Other than that, will it be ready by March?? :beer:
 

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OK actual techy kind of question - yea right...
Do you have a automatic radiator or are you just using the small factory cooler? Is it enough to actaully work on its own? what about connecting two of those factory coolers together - would that be enough to cool a 304?

I have the same cooler on my rig, but that's all I currently have.
 
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