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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In my opinion, buying your first hpD60 front is better than losing your virginity. Definitely excited about this one and I want to build it right before putting it into the rig.

I drug home a '79 hpD60 snow fighter front for $400 that was bastardized with all sorts of goofy leaf spring mounting ideas a few weeks ago and I've slowly been parts collecting to put it into my 5500lb s10 truggy. The idea is to continue wheeling the front d44 and swap axles after this wheeling season. The s10 is flat bedded with an LS1, 4L65 and np241 t-case currently with 37x12.50 Nitto Trail grapplers on a hpD44 F250 front and FFD60 30-spline rear with factory 4.10's. First wheeling trip of this season and I snap d44 shafts, thus the slow build up of a '79 hpD60. This truck has seen 27's, 30's, 31's, 35's, 37's and next year my wife is stealing my current 37's so I'll be looking for something in the 39-40" range.

Anyways, the question at hand is what else should I be upgrading in the hpD60 front to guarantee I will be able to drive the truck 3hrs home after a long weekend of wheeling? I wheel gently, but I like to crawl in the rock gardens. All I've bought so far are 35 spline outers (non chromo) and I picked up a DIY knuckle plating kit from Ryan at Rydelfab.com who sells them on the PBB.

To do list:
  • decide on a locker (E-locker, detroit, Grizzly)
  • Once locker is decided upon, choose manual locking hubs or drive slugs for 35 spline outers (E-locker will get drive slugs, manual hubs for OX/detroit)
  • Figure out which high steer arms to buy that have the connecting piece of DOM to the factory knuckle tie-in
  • Figure out a steering ram/hydro assist option for high steer
  • Buy or build a diff cover, or use stock cover with a chin guard
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Forgot to mention, this weekend I found and trailered home a matching Dana 70 HD from a 70's IH 3/4 ton 2wd. 4.88's, Powr-Lok and 67" wide. Drums of course but I'll convert those over. The plan is to swap one axle in this S10 truggy per season or when something drastic breaks.

Current phase:
-hpD44 F250 front, 4.10's and Spartan locker
-D60 full float rear, 4.10's and factory Track-Lok
-37's

Phase 2 (next wheeling season probably March/April 2015):
-hpD60 front swap, 4.10's and some locker
-D60 full float rear, 4.10's and factory Track-Lok
-37's

Phase 3 (when rear 60 breaks or when I find 40's):
-regear hpD60 front with 4.88's, keep some locker
-D70 swap, 4.88's, keep Powr-Lok
-40's

Writing it out like this it just dawned on me that I'll need to find a locker that is happy with factory 4.10's and future 4.88's.
 

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I could easily break the 30 spline outers with 37" boggers and a tires 302. 35 spline outers are a must - you are road driving so I would suggest some of Yukon's hardcore lockouts.

I recently rebuilt my D60 and ECGS had the best pricing by far - I opted to go with Yukon 4340 shafts and Yukon superjoints due to my 43's. It sure was nice to be able to hold the fun pedal down and let it eat without ANY fear of breakage.

I wheeled my D60 once with an open carrier and I welded it for the next even (no lunchbox options were available at the time) - I would lunchbox the front as its easy, doesn't change with gearing and you can easily re-coop 80% of it if you decide to opt for a full case locker in the future.

I would seriously look into Artec Fab's front truss/steering system - it's drop dead gorgeous and super functional. THat is where I'll eventually go with the double shear hi-steer and ram protection.

As for a diff cover - a D60 on 37's has less than or equal ground clearance to a D44 on 35's... Food for thought - I never wasted my front cover, but I have sheared bolts off it quite a few times. If you go into things hard I would look at a cover-

Good luck- here is some D70 porn.
 

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P.B.A.
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I've got a slightly narrowed high pinion 60 5.13's arb chromo shafts 35 spline Excalibur u joints heavy duty diff cover plated knuckles artec High steer arms gusseted in er c's. I think with 40's chromoly shafts are mandatory to eliminate breakage.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I wheeled my D60 once with an open carrier and I welded it for the next even (no lunchbox options were available at the time) - I would lunchbox the front as its easy, doesn't change with gearing and you can easily re-coop 80% of it if you decide to opt for a full case locker in the future.
KyleQ, I had my mouse on the "buy it now" button for a Spartan Locker for the D60 front since I love the Spartan in my D44 and am used to it. Do you think it'll hold up to 40's alright? I thought I was pushing my luck with the D44 Spartan and 37's.

35 spline outers are a must
Got those, but they're not 4340. Standard 35 spline - whatever they're made of.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
KyleQ, just noticed your location. I've wheeled Gilbert and Dresser many times. Those two places are what got me into wheeling. :D

Also, how's that Powr-Lok holding up for you in the rear D70?
 

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E. Spengler
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Writing it out like this it just dawned on me that I'll need to find a locker that is happy with factory 4.10's and future 4.88's.
OX 60 has the same break as the stock carrier. Looks like Detroit does too. I thought about a ring spacer, but everyone says that's a bad idea.

OX also comes with a beef cover, FWIW.

I'm in the same boat right now, lockers, 4.10/4.88, etc. I'm in luck that I have a Sterling rear (no break), so I'm going to OX it now and reuse my 4.10s, then do the front and 4.88s all around later.
 

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As for a diff cover - a D60 on 37's has less than or equal ground clearance to a D44 on 35's... Food for thought - I never wasted my front cover, but I have sheared bolts off it quite a few times. If you go into things hard I would look at a cover-
I made D60/14b covers from 3/8" steel and they were strong, but they wear quickly on the bottom and allways leak after couple of days offroading. And the flange is straight, but bashing the cover on rocks makes it somehow leak.. I made skids for the axles from 4mm (about 5/32") hardox steel and no leaking after that. Also the axles slide easier over rocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I made D60/14b covers from 3/8" steel and they were strong, but they wear quickly on the bottom and allways leak after couple of days offroading. And the flange is straight, but bashing the cover on rocks makes it somehow leak.. I made skids for the axles from 4mm (about 5/32") hardox steel and no leaking after that. Also the axles slide easier over rocks.
I noticed this phenomenon too...I have a thick cover from Great Lakes Offroad with 1/2" ring gear strap protection and the rest 3/8" diamond plating. Tuff Stuff gasket maker with months to seal before my first time wheeling...sure enough, one trip out into the rock garden and my rear 60 is now dripping in the driveway after the weekend. :mad3:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OX 60 has the same break as the stock carrier. Looks like Detroit does too. I thought about a ring spacer, but everyone says that's a bad idea.

OX also comes with a beef cover, FWIW.

I'm in the same boat right now, lockers, 4.10/4.88, etc. I'm in luck that I have a Sterling rear (no break), so I'm going to OX it now and reuse my 4.10s, then do the front and 4.88s all around later.
I just realized I mis-spoke/typed...I didn't mean OX locker, I was confusing that with the Yukon Grizzly locker. When you mentioned it came with a beef cover I was like....wtf? :homer: Then of course after looking I noticed what the OX was and realized it was the Grizzly I had previously gotten quotes for.
 

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Many ratios are available in "thick" and "thin" just double check before buying, but the carrier split is not the nuisance that it used to be.
 

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KyleQ, I had my mouse on the "buy it now" button for a Spartan Locker for the D60 front since I love the Spartan in my D44 and am used to it. Do you think it'll hold up to 40's alright? I thought I was pushing my luck with the D44 Spartan and 37's.


Got those, but they're not 4340. Standard 35 spline - whatever they're made of.
I don't have experience running a lunchbox with big tires, I would do some poking around on here and see what people say. Although I have not run across peopel bitching about killing them, so....

KyleQ, just noticed your location. I've wheeled Gilbert and Dresser many times. Those two places are what got me into wheeling. :D

Also, how's that Powr-Lok holding up for you in the rear D70?
Way cool - Apple Valley Farms is a good time too. I like the variety we have here - a little bit of everything, beside those evil rocks, lol.

The powr lok is holding up great - I don't think it has ever unlocked or slipped on me, but the 43's may put it to the test. I think the D80 clutches are the ticket-

I've never had a diff cover leak, but I've always run the super thick factory Spicer stuff - what the hell is with the beefcake covers leaking? That seems really lame -
 

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Just to reiterate what has been stated above... I run Yukon 4340 35 spline inner and outers, ARB, 5.13's, CTM joints, Yukon hubs, heavy duty C's, Riddler cover, and PSC hydro assist ram. So far everything has held up to my 42's and LS1...

I highly recommend you go the chromo route... I would also recommend a selectable locker and or Yukon hubs if you plan on street driving. I know a selectable locker is a lot of cash, but well worth the expenditure in my opinion... Just my $.02
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The powr lok is holding up great - I don't think it has ever unlocked or slipped on me, but the 43's may put it to the test. I think the D80 clutches are the ticket-
D80 Porw-Lok is the same as the D70 Powr-Lok? Or they just use the same clutches?

KyleQ said:
I've never had a diff cover leak, but I've always run the super thick factory Spicer stuff - what the hell is with the beefcake covers leaking? That seems really lame -
Indeed. I ground the bottom of my D60 rear to be smooth and line up perfectly with the bottom of the cover...I may shave the cover bottom another 1/8" so the D60 housing protects the cover and doesn't allow for rocks to catch on any gap and pull/shift the cover. It's not leaking much, maybe 1 drip every day as there's a pop can size puddle on the driveway now after a month of being back from Rausch creek.

Just to reiterate what has been stated above... I run Yukon 4340 35 spline inner and outers, ARB, 5.13's, CTM joints, Yukon hubs, heavy duty C's, Riddler cover, and PSC hydro assist ram. So far everything has held up to my 42's and LS1...
I have been leaning towards the Yukon selectable hubs but I keep reading about guys having trouble with the 78-79 D60 Ford years. Some, not all...

Curbkrawler said:
I highly recommend you go the chromo route... I would also recommend a selectable locker and or Yukon hubs if you plan on street driving. I know a selectable locker is a lot of cash, but well worth the expenditure in my opinion... Just my $.02
When I break the stock shafts I'll buy chromo shafts as the replacements. I just got my stock 35 spline outers yesterday and will probably run those on the 37's for a long time or until something breaks.

For lockers I'm still up in the air...I love my Spartan D44 now...literally point and shoot. An E-locker would be nice though but at twice the cost, is it worth it?
 

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For lockers I'm still up in the air...I love my Spartan D44 now...literally point and shoot. An E-locker would be nice though but at twice the cost, is it worth it?[/QUOTE]

I originally ran an ARB with my stock axles for several years. When I did the one ton swap I planned to use e-lockers because I didn't have to mess with a compressor. At that time there weren't many positive reviews of the d60 e-locker. I don't remember exactly what the main complaint was at that time and perhaps they fixed the issue, but it was enough for me to go back with ARB's.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Let's talk steering arms for H2 wheels, and future recentered H1's or similar 17" beadlocks with decent backspacing to keep the rig narrow. (I see their website says confirmed to fit 17" 4.7 backspacing wheels, so if these arms stick out too far, what other arms are available?) I'll be using TRE's on the drag link and 3/4 heims on the tie rod, plus a steering assist ram on the tie rod. I really like the arm designs that have the knuckle bolt tie-in for strength which would allow me to run the 3/4 heims up a little higher but also in double sheer.

Almost exactly like these Artec arms, but without the bling. What other manufactures offer this for a good value?

Also while we're on the topic of steering and looking at those Artec arms, they have the knuckle tie-in hole measured out to 7.790", and the drag link supposedly at 8". I believe my pitman arm only measures 7" (long drop 1-ton dodge unit) so won't my turning radius worsen? Or, can I use the closer 5.750" hole to mount my 1-ton TRE from the drag link? What actually happens when your drag link is longer than the (high) steer arm? It seems that the taller my tires get and stronger my axles become, the worse the turning radius is. I'd like to reclaim my sharp turning. Perhaps it's in the 1-ton Dodge steering box I've got? I'll check in a couple weeks to see what hits first, steering box stops or steering stops on the knuckle/C's. For now let's assume the steering box has free reign.
 

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D80 Porw-Lok is the same as the D70 Powr-Lok? Or they just use the same clutches?
The clutches swap over - this is what mine looked like, lol


Indeed. I ground the bottom of my D60 rear to be smooth and line up perfectly with the bottom of the cover...I may shave the cover bottom another 1/8" so the D60 housing protects the cover and doesn't allow for rocks to catch on any gap and pull/shift the cover. It's not leaking much, maybe 1 drip every day as there's a pop can size puddle on the driveway now after a month of being back from Rausch creek.
Hmm - I'll continue to run my thick factory covers then. I don't want to deal with that BS. Nothing leaks on my rig and I want to keep it that way. 43's will give me TONS more ground clearance over my 37's...
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Hmm - I'll continue to run my thick factory covers then. I don't want to deal with that BS. Nothing leaks on my rig and I want to keep it that way. 43's will give me TONS more ground clearance over my 37's...
43's WILL give you more ground clearance....to drive/climb over bigger obstacles and scrap the shit out of your cover. :D I always shave the bottoms of diffs when I can because shaving 1/2" off is like getting a free 1" tire upgrade. Shit, my D70 I can take an easy 1" off the bottom. That's like turning my current 37's into 39's for free!

Anyways, what I was thinking of doing to the shaved bottoms was matching the bottom to the cover shape, taking the cover back off and then remove another 1/8" off or so...that way it's always protected by the bottom of the diff. Right now it's flush so there's a small gap between diff and cover that might be "snaggable" on the rocks.
 

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Hmm - I'll continue to run my thick factory covers then. I don't want to deal with that BS. Nothing leaks on my rig and I want to keep it that way. 43's will give me TONS more ground clearance over my 37's...
The leaking problem will be worse with original covers, if you hit the stones and rocks when offroading. The thick covers help, but if you bash the cover to stuff, it will leak after a while.

Anyways, what I was thinking of doing to the shaved bottoms was matching the bottom to the cover shape, taking the cover back off and then remove another 1/8" off or so...that way it's always protected by the bottom of the diff. Right now it's flush so there's a small gap between diff and cover that might be "snaggable" on the rocks.
I did that, and it worked for some time, but the diff housing will wear out untill it is flush with the cover.. finally it wore down to the lowest bolts threads and then i decided to make the diff skids.

if this will be a problem depends on how much you drive offroad and what kind of terrain etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, I'm a :homer: on this one as I thought the diff cover was leaking because that's where the drip was occuring. Turns out it's the pinion seal, slowly dripping down to the bottom of the diff where it meets the cover and THEN dripping down....2nd pinion seal in less than 2 years. :mad3:

And yes, I do have a slight driveline vibration and a very noticeable noise on the highway that I can make louder/go away with the gas pedal. Pinion bearings? Original D60 had a 1330 weak style yoke on it so I swapped it out for a 1350 u-bolt style yoke. Torqued the pinion nut to spec and the rotational torque needed to turn the pinion felt fine to me, but perhaps I need to re-visit this.
 
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