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Discussion Starter #1
Posted thin in Gen chit-chat and got redirected here.

I am in the planning stages of building a shop behind my house. I am looking for ideas. I know alot of people on here have shops and have likes and dislike about them. I am talking about the buiding itself. Not whats inside. For example, do i use garage doors, sliding doors, swing out doors? How tall do i make it? What is the perfect size? (I was thinking 30ft x 30ft). I would like to be able to pull a motor from a hoist on a rafter. Should i use metal for the rafters and the main structure or are wood rafters and 2x4 walls okay? Should i build it with stud walls or would coragated(sp?) tin be better? If you have pics of what you have that would be great. I am trying to keep from one day saying, "Man, i wish i had....." So tell me what aspect of your shop do you love and what you hate and what you would redo if ya could. And this will totally be for my jeeps (2) and working on them. Nothing else!!
 

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Trust me, pull one large project vehicle or two smaller (like Jeeps) project vehicles into a 30x30, then throw in benches, welders, press, tools, shelving and everything else and you'll be saying you wish you had built it larger.

It sounds like you're open to building it bigger, so I would if you can afford it.

Allow enough height for a potential 2 post lift, preferably 12' min

Construction depends upon what you like and local prices. I prefer steel as much as possible, I find it easier to work on, beat on, add on, weld on, attach to and modify - - and it won't burn :D. If you're more comfortable w wood or it's cheaper, go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
D60 said:
Trust me, pull one large project vehicle or two smaller (like Jeeps) project vehicles into a 30x30, then throw in benches, welders, press, tools, shelving and everything else and you'll be saying you wish you had built it larger.

It sounds like you're open to building it bigger, so I would if you can afford it.

Allow enough height for a potential 2 post lift, preferably 12' min

Construction depends upon what you like and local prices. I prefer steel as much as possible, I find it easier to work on, beat on, add on, weld on, attach to and modify - - and it won't burn :D. If you're more comfortable w wood or it's cheaper, go for it.
Thanks for the help. Couple of question?

----I probably cannot go bigger than 30 ft wide because of an oak tree that is over 100yrs and i am unwilling to cut it down. i could go longer though, like 40 to 45 feet. is that worth it?

-- do you think 2 wooden trusses back to back would support an engine? I have built houses in the past and my father is a carpenter, so wood would be more feasible for me, but i am open to metal trusses and posts IF I have too in order to be able to pull a motor.

-- I like the idea of a 2 post lift somewhere in the future, i assume 12' would accomadate this?

-- What about doors? Garage doors will be expensive. would you prefer swing out or sliding?

thnaks for the help
 

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cisco said:
Thanks for the help. Couple of question?

----I probably cannot go bigger than 30 ft wide because of an oak tree that is over 100yrs and i am unwilling to cut it down. i could go longer though, like 40 to 45 feet. is that worth it?

-- do you think 2 wooden trusses back to back would support an engine? I have built houses in the past and my father is a carpenter, so wood would be more feasible for me, but i am open to metal trusses and posts IF I have too in order to be able to pull a motor.

-- I like the idea of a 2 post lift somewhere in the future, i assume 12' would accomadate this?

-- What about doors? Garage doors will be expensive. would you prefer swing out or sliding?

thnaks for the help
My new house is getting a 30'x25' steel building with 12.5'H sidewall and 16.5'H peak. 20'w x 12'H roll-up door. Only costing me $8000, although it's one of those "put it together yourself" ones, still cheap considering. As far as room this is merely for my durango alone so...
 

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My mom built a 30x30.. it was alright.

Shoulda gone deeper. Try to imagine wanting to park two rigs deep, just because. A few more feet and you could do it.

30x40 would be a good size.

If you buy a crew-cab long-box tow-rig, it's going to be 20'+ long.. if you need to pull the motor, you'll need ~6' in front of it, so 26' in depth right there. Hope you didn't put a workbench in front of that bay if it's only 30' deep.

But 40'? That's 10' of bench and tool room easily. Room enough for an engine on a stand between the crewcab and the workbenches, and probably still have room to pull the engine.

And, like I said, you could put two rigs in nose to nose if you needed to.

10' if you won't do a lift, 12 or 14 if you'll get a lift. With it only 30' wide, that poses problems for me - you need the lift in a spot such that you can work on stuff on the lift, and stuff NOT on the lift, without the lift being in the way.

Since I live in Montana, I'd look at only raising the roof where I needed it for the lift (cathedral ceiling?), so I could avoid heating all of that dead airspace I'm not using.
 

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This is the one I am building right now.
Sounds like what you are looking for.
If you are in the Los Angeles area, you are welcome to come see it.
Dave
 

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-more length is absolutely worth it. One of my bays is a drive thru, if I pull my *regular* cab F350 in w my 18' trailer hooked up you've just got maybe 3 to 4' on either end, which is just enough to comfortably walk around. I've never completely measured the clearance here, but I'm not certain this would fit in a 40' deep shop; if so it'd be a matter of using every available inch. With a longer pickup it'll only get worse.

-I can't comment on loads that wood framing could sustain. As for your concerns about pulling a motor, just build a rolling gantry crane. Couple threads around here w pics

-overhead garage doors are fine. Roll-up doors are kinda cool, too, but very spendy. Otherwise I'd probably take sliding over swing-out.
 

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heres my take on doors.

sliding doors are either open or closed cause leaving a crack in the middle serves real no purpose. and will be pretty heavy and when open will block something. say you have 2 sliding doors then you have to figure out how to have booth sets open at once.


swing out down side is they are also either open or closed and again heavy and a big "sail" when windy. also lets say you had a 12' wide opening thats 2 6' doors. as such you must keep a 6' opening in front of the doors.

roll ups yeah they are more money but the bennies are simple. roll the door up and stick a 4x4 block under it when you paint or when its cold and use a fan to vent the place. can put a rig right up to the door and work on it in a week or two rather than putting a rig back 7' opening the door then moving said rig. when its windy they are easy to open and easy to close. they don't interfere with the other doors.

as for lenght take all the space that you can get. a 30x40 gives you 300 extra sq ft or 1/3 more space. to me 1/3 of anything is a good start. at 45 ft long thats even better.
 

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Make it as wide and as long as you can afford/have room for.

You can always put your "work bench" in the back etc.. when you start adding tools, boxes, welders, plasmas, torches, bandsaws, cut-offs, multiple work-stations, etc it adds up QUICK.
 

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one other comment on doors. not sure where you are, but if you get snow, the sliding doors will suck. snow and ice will get packed up on teh rails, and then you have a hell of a time opening them. Also if weeds or anything grow up, that can block them as well.
Swing out doors would also be a pain in snow, as you'd have to clear all the snow in front of them in order to open the doors.
If you don't get snow where you are, may not be as much of a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, i went out with a tape and some paint to mark off were I wanted my shop yesterday. I am not very happy. Zoning laws were I live say I cannot build closer than 7 feet to the property line. So between that and the oak I refuse to cut down I can only fit 25 feet worth of width. I can go longer but only to about 40 feet. So I am pretty bummed about that. This will house only one jeep though. I have a 2 car carport for mine and my wife's daily driver. I am leaning toward sliding doors rather than swing open. Ido not think roll up will fit into the budget. Hell, I am not even sure it is worth it any more. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
CragRat said:
What area do you live in ?
I am in the great state of Arkansas!! I would love to see your shop but its a long drive!!

We average less than 1 foot of snow per year. The thing with the oak tree is we are having a huge problem with the red oak bore. It is a bug that is basically killing off all the old growth oaks. So cutting down the oak is NOT an option. Plus my wife would promptly cut off my nuts if i cut down her tree!!!
 

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i feel your pain on the oak. heres the oak i had to remove from my place. the limb(1st pic bare spot) just came off one morning about 630 am. the previous night we walked in/around this area. and as you can see my daughter(tallest one) is about 4'. this was an old growth tree about 200 and some years old. so if your tree is dying i'd control fall it rather than it come down on a rig/shop or worse of all a loved one.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
[QUOTE/]
i feel your pain on the oak. heres the oak i had to remove from my place. the limb(1st pic bare spot) just came off one morning about 630 am. the previous night we walked in/around this area. and as you can see my daughter(tallest one) is about 4'. this was an old growth tree about 200 and some years old. so if your tree is dying i'd control fall it rather than it come down on a rig/shop or worse of all a loved one.[/QUOTE]


The tree is in great health. I just do not want to cut it down for a shop. i'd rather build a smaller shop or no shop.
 

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one thing also to keep in mind is if you build a shop, watch out that you are doing a bunch of cutting/digging right by the roots. it would really suck to build a shop smaller due to the oak, but end up killing the oak with a lot of construction damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
cj7jeep81 said:
one thing also to keep in mind is if you build a shop, watch out that you are doing a bunch of cutting/digging right by the roots. it would really suck to build a shop smaller due to the oak, but end up killing the oak with a lot of construction damage.
thats good advice!!! Thanks
 

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It's ussually a pain and time consuming, but I'm sure you can try to get a Variance so that you can build closer to your property line.
 

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oaks are tough to work around without killing them. the common practice is to barricade at the canopy line for anything saved. otherwise a dead tree. it may take 5 years. tree or shop-not both.
 

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wood is plenty strong for lifting the trick is to use a 6*6 across 4 rafters to help spread the load, you can at the time of build add a steel chanel and cran across the roof
 
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