very good point. but, i wonder if he tried that and didnt have enough clearance.I like the steering but I would change one thing. I would have the bolts coming up through the knuckle instead of down. it would suck to have to repair on the trail and have messed up the threads on the bolt. Keep up the good work.
I like the steering but I would change one thing. I would have the bolts coming up through the knuckle instead of down. it would suck to have to repair on the trail and have messed up the threads on the bolt. Keep up the good work.
Good point by both of you,very good point. but, i wonder if he tried that and didnt have enough clearance.
on the other hand, if thenut on the bottom was struck hard enough by a rock [or curb, or trash can, etc.] that might unscrew the nut...maybe.
Thanks, That was my thoughts also on the bolt.I wouldn't worry about hitting that bolt on a rock. I have never seen it happen and a rock would have to get way up in there to hit it. I never understood why people ran the bolt upside down on the steering. I had to run my bolt with the nut on the bottom because it would not fit the other way because it hit the rim. But if you had rims with less backspacing it would probably not be an issue.
Thanks for the link to DIY4X.COM Their prices are great! Like 1/4 the price of bluetorch or anyone else.
Build looks great. Hurry up and get this thing 3 linked!
Build is looking good Mike. Nice work.I am in the process of getting the upper link layed out.
Should I keep the upper link parallel with lowers (Side To Side) or should I have some angle in it, I know the axle end of the link will need to have a angle in it to fit the mount properly. Should I try to get more or less angle. Just not sure whats best.
Good advice,Build is looking good Mike. Nice work.
As for the link, leaving it in a parallel position will result in a very "factory" type feel. It will perform great, theres absolutley nothing wrong with it. Keep things to note while your doing this: If you make the upper link longer than the lowers than the pinion will rotate upwards during travel, which is a good thing. 2nd, frame end separation (or axle) will change anti-squat values. So make your upper, frame end mount with 3-4-5 holes (on being parallel) and experiment. Like I always tell my friends " It need to be right, but we arent building NASA spaceships". Give yourself enough adjustment and you will be fine.
You need to remove the rubber sill from the prop valve, This will help.I know this is off topic, but did you change out your master cylinder for your brakes? I have an 8.8 in my XJ and after bleeding the sh*t out of them they are still soft. If so what did you use?