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Where did you get the crawler joints? What are all the specs on them? Cost?
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Where did you get the crawler joints? What are all the specs on them? Cost?
Trail Gear is where you can get them, there like $35 each.

There 2.63 wide to fit the factory lower mounts. They have a 1.25 shank with a 12 pitch.

I got mine like new from Indywill who got them and then didn't use them, they were like $30 each
 

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Trail Gear is where you can get them, there like $35 each.

There 2.63 wide to fit the factory lower mounts. They have a 1.25 shank with a 12 pitch.

I got mine like new from Indywill who got them and then didn't use them, they were like $30 each

Found them, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Mike,

Its looking good. I really like how you did your steering. Im sure this rig will turn out real nice. I like seeing build threads in non hardcore:smokin:
Thanks,

I will be looking you up when I get to putting a turbo on this thing.

2.5 with a turbo :laughing:


JP

Thats one nice jeep you got.
 

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Thanks,

I will be looking you up when I get to putting a turbo on this thing.

2.5 with a turbo :laughing:


JP

Thats one nice jeep you got.
thanks, I am willing to help. Send me a PM when your ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
The hockey puck lift is all but done. I broke one bolt off in the mount, But its soaking in some blaster so I believe it will come out. But besides that I just need to do a finale tightn.

I really like the way it turned out, Its hard to believe how much room just an inch of BL will give you. I should be able to clear my mounts just fine.

Some pics


Now I just need to get my MML lift on, I am using some 1 inch flat stock and making it my self.

And then get the shifter back working until I get the skid where its going to sit.

Then maybe I can start linking the front.

Its always something. Oh course its a jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Well I am scraping the skid plate/link mount design. I am going to mount the links in front of the skid, this will allow for a much cleaner design, It will also allow me to keep wheeling and not have the jeep down for a long period of time.

I am having MudPro (local shop) cut me out and bend up some 1/4 inch material to mount my lower link mounts to, I just don't have enough room on the bottom of the frame rail to get to the mount where it needs to be.

The brackets Scott at Mudpro is doing are pretty much L brackets that wrap around the frame rails. I am going to bolt the brackets to the frame, which will allow me to build them off the rig and bolt them on. I going to sleeve the rail with some 1 inch tube, then use a two 3/4 grade 8 bolts to mount them.

He is also bending me up a upper link mount for the frame. I plan to have 3 - 4 positions to mount the upper link.

These mounts will be close to the poly 3 link mounts. Kinda where I got the idea.

He should have them done tomorrow and I will post pictures as soon as I get them in hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
Well I got my material from Mud Pro today.

What a great guy to deal with. Scott did a great job. Talking with him is like talking to one of your wheeling buddys. Hes been wheeling all his life and under stands what your talking about, and I couldn't be more happy.

Here is what I sent him (I know its in paint but thats all I got)






And heres what he sent me.



Mocked Together



With the link hanger on the bottom to get an Idea of how I going to use them.

 

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Discussion Starter #91
I had him bend me up an upper link bracket while he was at it.



Turn out just like I wanted it.

Here is how I plan on using it, Maybe



He also cut me out some gussets



can't wait to get started on these,

Again thanks to Mud Pro for the great work, you guys should call him with your metal needs.



Mudpro Metalworks
171 Loudonya Lane
Hickory, NC 28601

(828)612-1199

[email protected]
 

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Can you post your numbers?

On graph paper you look fine but I see 2 things you may want to check again.

Lower link seperation at the frame- Not that this will dramatically affects numbers but, I looks as if your still in range of the tires making contact at full lock.

And the upper link. Couple things with that guy. First, if you can put it on the passenger side, do so. Vette explained it well as to why---"Natural torque reaction from the driveline wants to lift the driver side under power...I think we'll agree to that as a given. If your upper link mounts to the passenger side on the frame, the 'lift' force from the link pushes up and counteracts the torque roll from the driveline. If it's on the driver side, it adds to it."
And also make the upper link..1/2", 1", longer than the lowers. This will give you the advantage of the pinion rotateing up durring articulation. You want this.


Realistically though, all looks fine to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
I am kinda in a position that this is what I have to live with. Just wanted to see if it was just terrible

The way the front layed out I put the upper on the driver. So I guess i will be running it like that.

I would post the numbers if you want, But not sure it would make a big difference. I have started mounting it up, so not turning back now.


I felt good about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Made some progress today, even though my drill burned up (I have had it for a while). Ran out of wire on the welder so called it quits.

I did mange to get some work done.

The sleeves for the frame on the drive side drilled


and welded in.



I got most of the drive side bracket together



I still need to cut down the lower links mounts and weld the to the lower side of the bracket.

I am going to shorten the link hangers this much to allow me to mount the closer to the skid


Getting the driver side mocked up allowed me to get my lowers and upper measurements. I hope to make the links this week.

I planning on doing the Toys For Tots run in Mt City 8/08/09 which is my B-day weekend, So I gotta get it rolling by then.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Well I spent the weekend riding the trains in western NC. So I didn't get any thing done on the jeep.

I did pick up my Lower arms and my Upper Material on Friday. My buddy Justin taped on end of the lowers and cut the other to length for me. Now I have the to notch the other end to accept the Ballistic Joint.

So I have heard the best way to notch it (With out a Notcher) is to use a grinder and nip away at it. Any Advice or Suggestions????

Notching 1.75 to accept 2.63


I need to get that done, then finish the pass bracket. Then finale weld it.
 
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