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Discussion Starter #1
I am sure this post will get flamed for not being hardcore enought but im posting it anyway.

I was wondering how much misalingment i could expect from a busing. I am going to run a double triangulated four link with FOX or SAW air shocks.
I want to run the RE joints but dont have the money.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Buy a red star. Then you can use the search function.

Bushings will flex alot less then joints. I dont know the specific percentage(i forgot it). The bushings will make it ride a little softer as the urathane will absorb alot of road noise. Heim joints transfer that road noise into the cab more. For the limo I decided on using Johnny joints. I spent about a grand on them, and have a few leftover for my dd dodge to link the rear.
 

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you have enough $$ to run fox/saw coilovers but cant fork over $10-15 per joint more for joints than bushings? at least put a joint at one end of each arm, it will save money in the long run just from not wearing out the bushings so soon
 

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Discussion Starter #5
air shocks are alot less then coilovers, one of the main ressons i am running them. The only resson i am looking at bushings is that by buddy is leaving in june and my truck is at his shop so it has to be gone by then. So i was looking at something that would get me by for a little while.
 

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Get Off My Lawn
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I am helping HOT DAMN with his build and have a bunch of SCED. 80 2" pipe sitting around my shop that I was planning to run his linkes with. Do you feel that if we thred some 2x.120 wall hrew in the the sced. 80 that the links will hold.

I know that this is kind of half assing a key part of the rig but money is a little short for him at the moment and the truggy has to be rolling bye Christmas.

For further information of the rig at hand, it is a 1992 chevy Z-71 ex-cab, TBI 350, 700R4, NP241. the frame has been cut flush with the back of the cab and 6" passed the front of the cab. Both front and rear are fully tubular construction using 1.5" 1.20 HREW wth a full exo tying the front and rear to gether. The lower 2 feet of the cab was also cut off and boat sides built in place. It will be seated on a set of rockwells one steering one non with a full hydro set up. the trucks pland weight is around 5400 lbs. The shocks will be 2.5 18" fronts and 2.0 18" rear.

Hope this helps with the question at hand.
 

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What is the syspension design. double triangulated 4 link? If so go with joints or heims all arround. If you are doing a reuglar 4 link with pan hard, having bushing at one end might not be a bad idea depending on how much travel you are planning on

That said, I have done the work in cad, 2 johny joints or RE joints BARELY have enough misalighment for a 16" coilover, so if you are running any 16-18" airshock, I would not run a bushing or a pair of joints. I would run Aurora heims with HMS.

You can run what ever you want for the lower links. I think you will regreting using any kind of pipe in your suspension. I used 2" .25 wall DOM and I think I should have gone bigger. 2.25 3/8" wall would have made me happier. When I bend A lower link, I will end up buying some of that
 

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well......with re joints if you make the links massive you will never need to worry about them. with bushings you are going to have to change them out quite a bit if your running tough trails that will make the rig work. make some mock sp? up links and move it out of the shop. set all the tabs for re joints and buy links when you can. maybe 120$ ea with 2 re joints and .25 tube. run a ridge back on the lower links and you have a almost bullet proof link....imho....
 

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X-Rated said:
What is the syspension design. double triangulated 4 link? If so go with joints or heims all arround. If you are doing a reuglar 4 link with pan hard, having bushing at one end might not be a bad idea depending on how much travel you are planning on

That said, I have done the work in cad, 2 johny joints or RE joints BARELY have enough misalighment for a 16" coilover, so if you are running any 16-18" airshock, I would not run a bushing or a pair of joints. I would run Aurora heims with HMS.

You can run what ever you want for the lower links. I think you will regreting using any kind of pipe in your suspension. I used 2" .25 wall DOM and I think I should have gone bigger. 2.25 3/8" wall would have made me happier. When I bend A lower link, I will end up buying some of that
Im using johny joints all around the jeep im building now. Double triangulated and the joints travel a lot more then the 14 coilovers that are on it. there is plenty enough to run 16". try reruning your numbers.
 

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my numbers say with "my" double triangulated 4 link with the shocks 42" appart at the axle, I could flex one side up 9 inches, and the other side down 9 ". That means a 16" travel would work fine if you wanted 8 up and 8 down, but if you want 6 up and 10 down, you are out of luck. It will be close, but you will be putting the joints at the far end of their ability, and I didnt want to risk it, so I went with Heims and HMS, no worries now
 

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Discussion Starter #11
what if you did RE joints on one end and then evo's on the other, not exactly cheep. Thats why i wnat to run bushings untill i can get the money togeather to do it right. And with the 2" pipe i planed on running a 2" peace of tubing with .25 wall inside of that. I figured since it was sleved it would be plenty strong.
 

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So what is the difrance between the RE's and johny joints in the flex department? I know I buddy of ours runs the RE joints on his jeep. He has Rockwells and double triangulated four link all the way around with piggy back 16" fox coilovers. He has tons of flex, he has driven over the RTI ramp at Katemcy with out lifting a tire. thats like 4.5-5 feet.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
johny joints hav 30 degress of misalingment and RE's have 22.5
 

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the father out you mount the shocks, the less angle it takes.

at 22.5 degrees, that means each joint can misalign 11 degrees each way. that isn't crap.
 

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X-Rated said:
the father out you mount the shocks, the less angle it takes.

at 22.5 degrees, that means each joint can misalign 11 degrees each way. that isn't crap.
11* at each end = 22* Also, 11* x 4' link = __' of movement. Youre letting the numbers think too much for you. I have RE's at each end of my dual triangulated 4-link and they hardly move when flexing. The links are aligned so that they dont have too. The lower links at the axle move in as the axle raises or drops and this moves them close to the mounting point at the chassis; thus requiring less twisting movement from the joints. The upper links at the axle are in the center so any movement is multiplied when it reaches the tires. The mounting points for the uppper links at the chassis are situated so that the only movement is axle movement up and down and any excess twisting the joints at the axle couldnt soak up (which is minimal). Hot DAmn, if you dont have the money for any kind of joints at both ends, Id say run em at one end and bushings at the other. Easy enough to switch later. If set up properly, Im sure it would still flex enough to your satisfaction.

Some tangible evidence of RE's @ both ends:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the info and the pic. I am going to ask for RE joints and uniballs for christmas. So hopefully this wont be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Any body else have any advice or suggustions or pics of how they set up there rigs.

X-Rated let me know how those links work out.
 

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Like I said, I drew up the entire suspension in solidworks, down to the johny joints. Set angle limits on the joints to 15 degrees either way. The model says they will work with 18" coilovers just fine if you have the same up travel as down. Looked like you could run 9.5" down, and 6.5" up. I just wasnt confortable pushing the joints right to the limit all the time. So I went with the heims and HMS.
 
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