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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I'm new here... from Stockton, Ca.

I've been having an issue getting my 87 22r pickup to pass smog. I took it into the SMOG place and they said my numbers were good but my timing was off. They changed the timing for me and then my numbers were through the roof.

I took it home and discovered the truck seems to run best around 20* BTDC. When I set it at 0 it runs like crud. I moved the distributor a tooth forward and back which didn't help. I checked the crank pull for slippage and it's fine. Tried whacking it with a hammer with no luck. Any ideas?
 

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I just went through the smog bullshit on my 85 runner, all stock EFI. There is a ton of info here if you search. What did they set your timing to? I ended up retarding mine to 2deg and putting on some stock tires, from 35's. My egr was not opening up on the 15mph test, but did good on the 25mph test. Post up your #'s.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My HC readout at 15 mph was 151 with a 143 max. My CO was 3.98 at 15mph with a 1.01 max and at 25mph it was 3.22 with a 1.28 max.
 

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There were my failing test numbers. I think it could be my vacuum advance. I sucked on both the tubes and the tube closer to the radiator moved the little arm thing but the tube closest to the engine didn't budge and sounded like there was a small leak. Could that cause these numbers?
 

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Just got back from the Smog man... replaced the distributor and if failed again. HC and CO were higher than before. Smog man suggested carb issues. I've read High CO and HC could be running rich. Looked at the carb and the screw was about 4-4.5 turns out. I reset it to 3.5 (What I've read was factory spec) and put the idle back by sound to a normal level. Seems to run a bit smoother. Could that have been my problem all along?

When I first got the truck it came with a smog cert that passed and said timing was 3* BTDC. My first test said 9* BTDC. Now I'm back at zero. Any help is appreciated!
 

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Your carb is dumping fuel in. I would rebuild it. Turns of the screw in the idle adjustment screw. When adjusting that one, it should be done with a vacuum gauge installed. And set until you have a maximum amount of vacuum.

The carbs are not hard to rebuild. If you have ever done one. I would start with a rebuild kit and float. And buy a gallon of chem dip.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The co2 content is low. it should be above 14%. how many miles on engine? possible valve adjust. your nox is good. are you running 91 octane? was your vehicle warm up to operating temperature prior to smog? Right heat range plugs?
Over 250K on the engine, running 87, engine was good and hot. Not sure about the plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I pulled the valve cover finally (obviously not my daily driver lol) and checked the clearances. Seemed like all my intake valves were too tight and all my exhaust valves were fine. I adjusted them and put it back together. I also adjusted the carb back to 3 1/2 turns out on the mixture screw. The guy before me had it around 4 1/2 turns. I was told 3 1/2 is stock. I will take it to the SMOG man in the next few days and post up results. Thanks!
 

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Also check the tube at the back of head it fills with carbon and won't allow the air to pass back thru the carb causing readings to be off. My 22r in my celica did the same thing, cleaned the tube and it passed. Also run 3-4 gallons of 91 thru it before taking it back.
 
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