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Depends on if you need to adjust them up or down (clockwise for up, counterclockwise for down I think). Yes, the machine needs to keep spinning while you're making the adjustments. Make sure you have the calibration slug on there.
 

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Thank you for the quick reply! How far do I turn the screw? I turned the left one 10 full turns and there was no change in the gain for the left. What is the far right screw on the board for? I am excited to get this thing running!
 

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You shouldn't have to turn it very much, although I found forgetting the calibration weight would make the shown value change very little. Do you have the weight installed?

I'm not sure what the other pots are for, to be honest. I think it's in the manual though.
 

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Yes, the weight was attached. I was able to turn the screws 20 times with no resistance. I made sure to not to turn past any resistance. The first time I ran the calibration procedure I received the 'cal er' message. After adjusting the screws I received the 'LP6 LO' message. Now I am just having trouble getting the right and left side to .53. Seems like turning the screws doesn't do anything.
 

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Well, you're just adjusting a pot so you won't get any resistance, you're just looking for the gain value shown when you hit F11 and spin to get to .53. If you're adjusting the pot and it's not changing the gain then it must be the wrong pot, or something else is wrong I'm afraid.

What values do you get when you do an F11 and let it spin?

I should add I'm pretty sure I've had my pickup connector come loose, and I think I've also had the pickup come loose and drop the ball bearing into the shroud around the shaft, which I think both caused similar symptoms.. I'd give it a once over for obvious mechanical problems, too.
 

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The values vary. The left side goes from .41 to .52 to .6 to .45 in 15 seconds. The right side started at 0 to .12 to .07 to .22. Both pick up sensors are secured with the ball bearings in place. I'll look it over for any disconnected wires, etc. and get back to you. Thanks again for the help!
 

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I tested all three of the pots. I set the multimeter to 2000. I placed the probes on one of the outside and middle legs and all three trims go up and go down when I turn the screw. Based on this, I have to assume the pots are good.
 

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John Beam 5.1 Thank you Isaac and others!

Thank you so much for this thread as I need to do some work on my JB 5.1
I downloaded the manual from the new link and all is good except the last page the print is so small that when it's enlarged it's not legible.
Is that last page just a recap or is there new information there that I am missing?
If it's additional information could you please send me a copy ([email protected]) or add a legible file to the download? This blog is so valuable at keeping these machines running and this information isn't available anywhere else.
I have several Sun Diagnostic Analyzers and none of the service manuals are available for those because Snap-On bought the company and threw everything out. I think it's the same with the JB machines.
This is my last hope :)
 

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F52 Encoder transition time needs adjustment

I'm stuck on the F52 adjustment. My reading is 33 and 47 and the goal is 50 on each and 40 and 60 nominal. I don't see any way to loosen screws on the bracket and move it. On my John Bean 5.1 it has a nut that holds the encoder to the bracket.
The good news is that I did the F50 test and it was off. So I adjusted that to get the proper reading of the --- 000 and the F51 test was 255 just like it's supposed to be. The f53 speed test was 299! Maybe that's because it's a model 5.1 and not the model 4.1?
The good thing is that the machine had been chasing weights and I'm pretty positive that the F50 Encoder State adjustment would fix that problem. With that issue, the machine would instruct me to place the weight in the wrong spot. Therefore chasing to find balance.
If anyone has made the F52 Encoder Transition Time adjustment please tell me how.
Thank you,
Bill
 

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How good is good enough

Replying to my thread for others that may be wondering.
I wrote to John Bean, a.k.a. Snap-on at their location listed in the back of the manual. Got a technical service person that wasn't willing to share the information, which is typical for Snap-on equipment they deem as too old. But, I begged, and he sent me an updated page from the more current manual. The same as what has been published by Isaac, but it lists different pot #s for the various iterations of the John Bean balancers.
He was helpful in that he pointed me in the right direction, basically saying that the F53 test is only valid on the older machines that have the bracket adjustment. And that the F11 test is the one to run on the newer devices.
My 5.1 has a newer PCB and was built around YR2000. I found a removable plug in the back of the control panel that gives direct access to the pots. First, I removed the control panel to inspect the PCB for pots and only found two. That's how I discovered the access hole. I ran the machine with an F11 and moved the pots a little, but it made no difference, just like the person responding in the post before me. My readings were .45 and .58 and within tolerances. So, I decided to call it a day and test the balancer for a proper balance before screwing anything up.
I performed both normal balance and an aluminum wheel balance on a bare rim, and they both were excellent.
Here's the quick fix story:
I bought the machine off CL, and the owner said it just chases weights, so he bought a new machine when he couldn't get it calibrated. I ran the calibration tests, and it all worked and indicated GOOD. So, then I ran all of Isaacs's checks from the information he provided. I found that the position sensor was reading incorrectly, and I loosened the set screw and, with a level, adjusted the position of the pickup. Then I recalibrated using the basic calibration. Then I tested the balancer in both regular and aluminum modes and successfully balanced wheels both time with one weight addition and inner and outer on aluminum mode.
So, in conclusion, run the F50 Encoder State Test and make sure that the test weight is precisely at BDC when you set to ---000, and you will have a good start with getting the machine to balance correctly.
 

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Blubau, when you run the f50 position check what are you adjusting to get the correct #s when slug is at bdc? I'm chasing a 50p or sop error during calibration, when this error shows up the machine just keeps spinning. The only way to stop it is raise hood or kill power. I have my f11 set at .53 both left and right. I want to exhaust all options before I send the bord out for a $300-400 repair. I tried downloading manual withe no luck.
Thanks for any help.
Dean
 

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Adjustment

Dean,

I have a John Bean 5.1 and it's a later model from 2000ish. If that's considered newer as the person at SnapOn told me.
You run the F50 with the weight attached and it will run and then stop on a number. Then you manually move the spindle until the weight is on the bottom. Then place a level across the bottom of the weight and move the spindle until the reading is perfectly level. While it in that position loosen the Allen screw on the shaft that drives the position sensor. Rotate the shaft that goes into the sensor until the display reads --- 000. And it's now referenced to tell you to place the weights in the correct spot. Without this adjustment, you will be off many degrees and keep chasing weights.
I bought my machine from a fellow that said he was always chasing weights and couldn't get a balance. The machine would perform the basic calibration and show all as OK. I found this adjustment out by over 20 degrees so you can imagine why it wouldn't find a proper balance.

What model machine do you have? When you adjusted the pots did very little movement change the numbers or did it take a lot? Was there a big delay in the reading changing? Did you adjust the pots through the access hole in the rear of the control panel?
Thank you,

Bill
 

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So this thread so far has been very helpful!! I have a new problem though, one of the piezos is broken on mine (crystal/pickup) i opened it and the white discs are all broken, also when i do F11 it doesn't spin it, i just hear a relay click and it says 0 0... i tried to disconnect and reconnect the encoder connector as suggested and it didn't change anything. Does anyone know a place i could buy the piezo, or what the little discs are made of, so i could make some? I contacted my local john bean supplier and they can't help me...

P.S. the manual file seems to be down again on both links :(
 

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Replaced the piezo pickup sensors and now it spins on F11, but the value is always "0 0" i tried to disconnect and reconnect the encoder and that didn't change anything, and i checked F50 and the position sensor is perfectly adjusted
 

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Hi I just picked up an fmc 4100 witch worked great till tonight and now I get a Lp6 Lo code. And was wondering if anyone had a link to the service manual as the link on here no longer works. Thanks
 

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Purpsoli what machine

Purpsoli,
Did you say what machine you have? The coding depends on the model.
I have an FMC 5800, i ordered some of the chips on the board, mainly the ones under the protective coating, i will try to replace those and see what happens, i will let yall know!
 
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