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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm attempting to make my own hi-steer arm

i'll have a mechenist do the tappering for the tie and cone washers


1st step done cut steel its 1" 1/2


 

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Booty fab how?? I made my own hi-steer arm, too. No tapering needed on the rockwell, but about an hr with a hand drill and a chop saw, and I had hi steer for about $4...
 

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The above pic is exactly what BOOTIE FAB is its not dangerous shiat its when you make something that doesnt look quite right but does the job just the same.

All you guys seam to think that BOOTIE FAB is just all dangerous stuff.
 

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This was mine:D I had to redrill and taper the draglink hole, now it go's lock to lock;)


But when I posted mine the first reply was Bootie Fab!!! everyone else fallowed sute:flipoff2: that just go's to show you how some people likes to follow the crowd....

Looks good to me though:D, nice work
 

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Me love Bootie!

Me do same, many moons ago!







Because I was not re-using the stock Chevy tapered hole and split conical washer system for positive zero tolerance location of the steering arm (an excellent design, but requiring more expensive machining and the rob-you-blind Chevy hardware [see research page]), I needed another method for assuring a tight positive fit that won't loosen, develop play, and place dangerous shear loads on the bolts. The bolts alone are not sufficient since, in order to be able to fit the bolt in and out of the hole, there is too great a clearance between the OD of the bolt and the ID of the hole. remeber, the bolts are not for locating, just clamping.
 

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BillaVista said:
Me love Bootie!

Because I was not re-using the stock Chevy tapered hole and split conical washer system for positive zero tolerance location of the steering arm (an excellent design, but requiring more expensive machining and the rob-you-blind Chevy hardware [see research page]), I needed another method for assuring a tight positive fit that won't loosen, develop play, and place dangerous shear loads on the bolts. The bolts alone are not sufficient since, in order to be able to fit the bolt in and out of the hole, there is too great a clearance between the OD of the bolt and the ID of the hole. remeber, the bolts are not for locating, just clamping.
Why not use a tapered pin instead of the drill rod.
If you call a Trane supplier the Part number is a Pin-0084.
I can not remember the taper but can look at the ream in my truck, it is a standard taper. The pin even has a nut on the top so you can jack it out with som washers.
I think Mc Master Carralso sells them.
I use them as locating pins on large parts of the equiptment that I service.
 
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