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Discussion Starter #1
I can't decide which way to go. I am trying to put a winter camo paint job on my 4-runner. I already painted the base (white) on the entire thing. The next step is to start applying the pattern in light grey, then dark grey, then black. I'm not sure how sharp of a line between colors will look best. If I use spray paint, I know the edges of the pattern will be blurry. If I use a spray gun and compressed air, can I achieve a better pattern?

The pattern will be fairly large area's, not real buisy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did either of you mark the pattern first? If so, how?

What about masking around the pattern. Did either of you do that?
 

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If you can get some of that paint they use on CUCVs and HUMMERS it would be tough as nails.
 

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Rattle cans...Wal-Marts cheapest ones at that.

I used about 12-15 cans total all flats, white, black, and gray, on the Bronco II I had. If it gets a scratch, grab a can of paint and it is fixed.

Don't make a pattern for it...just grab a can and go after it. No need to get obsessed with it IMHO, just spray it. As long as the wind isn't blowing too much, it will turn out good. A little bit of drift spray will not be very noticeable, really.

Like with all other painting efforts though, do some prep before hand. Get some Scoth-Brite pads and scuff the paint up, then wash it good. All I did was mask the windows and lights, then I started to spray it. It was fine, but it could have looked MUCH better.
 

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Rhino i believe rattle canned it and i must say it looks DAMN GOOD. I love that paint job, it is unbelievable.

 

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I used mil spec rattle cans from an Army Surplus place, wasn't too expensive, and seemed "tougher" some how compared to ordinary flat paints:confused: :D
 

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6869704x4 said:
If you can get some of that paint they use on CUCVs and HUMMERS it would be tough as nails.
The military uses CARC (chemical agent resistant coating). It is highly toxic and requires a special paint booth and a supplied air respirator.
 

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I've done a few camo jobs. I'd have used a rattle can for the whole thing, even the base coat. It depends on how nice you want it. You can get a better job with a gun, but a rattle can can come close with practice. The nice thing about a rattle can is that you can easily touch it up if it gets beat up in places. I just free hand the pattern. You dont want clean edges (like masked edges) on a camo pattern. Do a google search for pictures of military vehicles to get ideas for a pattern. They are not just random, it is a science to the design. The idea is to break the lines of the vehicle so that it doesn't look like a man made object from a distance. My last camo truck could be parked in the brush and not be seen from 100 yards.
 

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Me and my cuz shot his Suburban with a gun. OD green base and then used aluminum trailer skirting for templates cut to look like limbs, leaves, etc.
One of us would hold the template up and the other would shoot. Started with a light color and kept adding tint to get the darker ones. We then shot matte clear over the top.
Only took 'bout six hours and $65. Got the enamal paint at the local discount paint store. Been on there 4 years and looks great. Didn't even bother trying to fix the rust holes or dents.
Gave it that 3D look.:flipoff2:
 

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Stephenw said:


The military uses CARC (chemical agent resistant coating). It is highly toxic and requires a special paint booth and a supplied air respirator.
Theres always a catch.
 

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6869704x4 said:


Theres always a catch.
No chit. I've been thinking for a while about the cool kind of 'gritty' paint the Army uses on tanks and stuff. Maybe if I make friends with a Colonel I could sneak the rig into the paint booth at Belvoir or Meade.:D
 

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Rattle cans work fine with all the bene's as stated above.

I mixed some of mine and shot it with a gun 'cause I couldn't get the color I wanted in spray cans...but most of it was spray bombed.

Eric
 

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cheap x 12-15 = doesn't sound so cheap,

That paint is less than a buck a can, plus two rolls of masking tape, and some newspapers

I spent $20-25 TOTAL for a new, VERY easy to repair paintjob...that's not cheap enough for ya:confused: :confused: :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Groundhawg said:



That paint is less than a buck a can, plus two rolls of masking tape, and some newspapers

I spent $20-25 TOTAL for a new, VERY easy to repair paintjob...that's not cheap enough for ya:confused: :confused: :confused:
If it makes you feel better, I think thats pretty damn cheap!:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 

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"The military uses CARC (chemical agent resistant coating). It is highly toxic and requires a special paint booth and a supplied air respirator. "

CARC isn't that mysterious. It's a polyuathene with a very high solid count. I've sprayed more than my share and I'm no painter :D The only things with CARC is the bare metal prep has to right, and spending the time to filter the paint before you spray it. Most of the cans (5 gallons) have been sitting for a time and you'll go thru a bunch of "coffee" filters before you've topped off the spray pot. And yes we always use a respirator when spraying anything :rolleyes:
 

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you could allways use a base coat of por-15 in white the spray the pattern with hamer-rite if you realy wanted a durable paint job... hell the rig'd rust away and the paint'd still be there.. lol


por-15 and hamerite are the shiz nit
 
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