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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am in the process of a frame off build . The rig is a 84 CJ-7. The engine is from my 94 XJ 4.0. I will be running D44 front, 9 inch rear. Np435 with a clocked D300. I just hung the NP 435 behind the engine that is bolted in and all hooked up. With the engine hoist on the tranny it looks real good I think I can go completly flat with the frame. It looks like I will have to trim the tub and maybe hammer out the firewall. I will also be running a 1 inch body lift. Should I just make the skid and address the other issues with some :beer: and the sawzall. Anyone have any similar expierences? Its looking too easy and I am getting skeptical because my bud had to drop his plate 2 inches on his YJ with a 1 inch BL. Thanks Rob K:rasta:
 

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Mine is at 1 1/2" below the frame rail. That is with no body lift, and using a 5.0 engine.
I could probably get it up a little higher, but I would have to raise the engine. I would not raise the center of gravity of the engine or the body to gain a little ground clearance.
You can do a lot of things when you are driving to avoid dragging your skid plate, but gravity is fawkin relentless.
 

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The belly of the 435 will be your limiting factor not the 300. Don't get to carried away with getting the skidplate up as high as possible as much as just making it flat so that it will slide on obsticles. If you worry about getting it all flat with the frame you end up pushing the motor, tranny, and t-case up and that really screws you on the leaner situations. I know someone who did this and he noticed how badly it effected the balance just for some skidplate ground clearence.
 

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Heared of clocking a 700r4/dana 300?

66CJdean said:
The belly of the 435 will be your limiting factor not the 300. ......pushing the motor, tranny, and t-case up ....badly effected the balance....
Wanted to ask if anyone has clocked a dana 300, mated to a 700r4/5.7L combo [actually a 4l60e, same-same].

I have my advance-adapter motor mounts flush with the top of the frame on my 350 now [which places the bottom of the motor mount on the engine acutally above the frame, do you think this is too high? Should I move them down by going to a modified stock mount??

I appreciate your help 66CJdean, you have some great posts [but I'm still trying to get the axle stub out of my "C" on my 44 after choping it [I was running out of gas on my torch, I've resorted to the drill press].
 

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misfitcj said:
here is something I stumble upon I think he use's a 435 hope it helps...............http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/xfer/tindex/..............:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: should help it look flat
Um., that would be me :D... I used to run a NP435, but this article was done when I installed the SM465 behind the chevy. Doesn't matter though, the process would be the same. The same article/page is on my webpage, previously mentioned by oxjockey.:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the replys.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I dont know what I was :smokin: :smokin: .. I cant go flat at all. I took some measurements and i need to lower the skid about an inch, maybe a little more. Thanks.
 

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Here is a pic mine at 1 1/2" below the frame rails.
I used to have a 2" body lift on it, and I absolutely hated the instability on very steep side hills. Now it has no body lift, and the balance and stability are so much better.
The key to a well designed skid plate as was mentioned earlier, is to make it without any areas that can get hooked up on rocks or obstacles.


And here is a nice shot of the bottom, you can see that all of the bolts are recessed and protected. You can also tell by the skid marks that it does make contact occasionaly, but it transitions over rocks very nicely.
I'm satisfied with the design.
 

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I also was wondering about clocking the the 300 with a 4l60e. I have a second set of holes on the advanced adapter that I couldnt use because if I rotated it that high it looked like the front shaft was going to nail my tranny. I left it where it was and even now, it self fit with some scraping from my tranny and exhaust. Is there anything I can do to the tranny to fix this? custom pan? My tranny hangs about an Inch below the frame rail right now anyways so I don't mind the transfercase hanging that low as well, I will just make the belly pan completely smooth.
 

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I've never done it(clearanced the pan on an auto), but I've seen pictures of it done. I suppose its a matter of how much you would need to clearance it.
 

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Just Tried

I have an NP435 with a clocked 300. I have 1" Daystar body lift and am only able to get the skidplate within 2.5" of the frame rails. If you put in a lower section around the tranny or cut a hole to go through you can get it to work a little closer.

Here is a pic of what mine looked like.

http://ledjer.junkyarddawgs.org/images/skidplate.jpg

I used 2.5" square tubing on the sides and 3/16" plate.

http://ledjer.junkyarddawgs.org/images/boa1.jpg

You can see from this pic that it doesn't hang down too much and is better than the 4.75" drop of the stock unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the advice. It looks like a 2 inch drop is in order..
 
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