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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am trying to buy some air bumps from FOA. They have the best prices and the mount can is included.

If I could only buy one pair of these air bumps, are they more beneficial in the front or rear??

I am thinking the front? I have Deaver leafs in the rear and half way decent leafs in the front. It's a SAS'd 92 K1500 with tons and 38's. I am running 14" bilstein 7100's at each corner. I maybe have 4" up-travel in the front. So thinking about 2" stroke bumps 2" off the pad.

And I guess for the rear I'll run some decent, much cheaper bumps. Does anyone have info on the "good" chevy bump stops I see mentioned all over the place? Those may be good for the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yea I have also heard of the timbrens AEON rubber springs. I just haven't found where to find them. I went on their site and found the part numbers I would want but I just wish I could go to a website and buy exactly what I want. No kits or anything. I tried calling stengel bros but they were closed.

thanks for the help! I just want the best ride I can get.......for my budget
 

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I agree on running the air bumps in the front. Usually harder to mount up there, but they usually help more in the front. I have always heard great things about the daystar bumps that look like a pyramid as well for the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #8
If I was in your shoes, I would get the BBS bumps from Poly Performance and screw the air pumps. These things work amazing. I ran KOH on them, jumped on them, all in a 4,200lb truck. They are $40 for 4 of them.

Air bumps are really not necessary on *most* wheelers.

These: Made by BBS in Germany

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Eibach-Micro-Cellular-Foam-Shaft-Bump-Stop-p-1354.html
that is a super valuable response. I appreciate it. But that link is to a eibach bump stop, could you double check that its the the one you were talking about?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
oh of great thanks! I guess I should have remembered eibach is german anyway

After looking closer I see they are bump stops that install on your shocks. I have wandered about these. I assume they have no ill affect on your shocks? I'm not competitive or running KOH, so I imagine these will do.

The smallest shaft they are made for is 5/8 which equals .625". My bilstein 7100 shafts are 14mm which equals .55". Will this be fine??
 

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oh of great thanks! I guess I should have remembered eibach is german anyway

After looking closer I see they are bump stops that install on your shocks. I have wandered about these. I assume they have no ill affect on your shocks? I'm not competitive or running KOH, so I imagine these will do.

The smallest shaft they are made for is 5/8 which equals .625". My bilstein 7100 shafts are 14mm which equals .55". Will this be fine??
I think you will be fine. Be sure to get the lower retaining plate to hold the bump. You will have to disassemble the shock to get it on.

The only negative is that the bump force is now transmitted to your shock mounts so make sure that the mounts are robust. Other than that, it's an awesome option. It won't damage your shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have take the actual shock apart? I thought I just had to unbolt it and slide it on, shit I don't really want to disassemble my shocks right now.....
 

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I have take the actual shock apart? I thought I just had to unbolt it and slide it on, shit I don't really want to disassemble my shocks right now.....
Unless you can get the bottom off. I know on fox's it was easier to pull the shaft out than heat up the bottom and screw that off. I don't know bilstiens. Either way, it is pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
and that requires you to de-service it right? I'm sure you have to discharge the nitrogen, but does the oil also come out?
 

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and that requires you to de-service it right? I'm sure you have to discharge the nitrogen, but does the oil also come out?
The oil all stays in unless you spill it. The shocks you have you may be able to pull the bottom off. I don't really know them well. You could always cut it off and reweld it with the lower plate welded on as I think they are steel. Sounds ghetto, but my buddy did that and converted the shock to a heim style rather than bushing and it actually worked really well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
alright thanks a lot for your help. I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out. My shocks have heim style rod ends on them already but not threaded or anything.

This has helped me a lot! And can't beat the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Sweet!!

I looked up various sites about rebuilding the 7100's. And in a picture of them disassembled you can clearly see the bottom heim is threaded on! Makes things that much easier. I would have looked at them, but they are in a locked up lot at my CG Base's Morale Hobby shop right now.
 

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The oil all stays in unless you spill it. The shocks you have you may be able to pull the bottom off. I don't really know them well. You could always cut it off and reweld it with the lower plate welded on as I think they are steel. Sounds ghetto, but my buddy did that and converted the shock to a heim style rather than bushing and it actually worked really well.
Please please dont cut and weld! The rod end of a bilstein screws off. Use a soft jaws and a little heat to break the loctite bond and your good to go. As mentioned earlier you will need a lower cup or washer to keep the bump from being pounded over the rod end. Also if you have one of the newer style wiper caps you may need the older steel style if your going to put some serious jounce load on the 7100.

Further when you depressurize a 7100 the oil WILL NOT leak out oil like a junk emulsion shock. Whether they have a reservoir or not all Bilstein monotubes have a floating piston seperating the gas and oil just like it should be.
 
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