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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just got a 84 pickup with a 22r and when it is cold, it wont start up without having to shoot starter fluid in the carb. once its warmed up, however it will start up fine. does this sound like a gunked up carb? if not then what?
 

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Not necessarily - the electric choke went out on my '81 carb after I rebuilt it.
I've since hooked up a manual pull wire choke it works great.
 

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I went to the local Advance Auto and bought a cheap manual choke kit. The one I got came with the pull toggle attached to the wire so I first mounted the toggle (wire and sleeve) to the under side of the dash - location is your choice. I then drilled a hole in the fire wall underneath the steering column - tucked up out of the way and ran it to the carb; zip tied along the way. Cut the wire and sleeve to length (wire longer than the sleeve, and looped the wire through a hole in the primary buttery fly arm a couple times then clamped; bending the loops so they wouldn't come undone. It works fine. My motor would NEVER start without starting fluid before doing the manual choke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
also....ive noticed on this truck that it wanders back and forth going down the road and im constantly correcting it. it has 31x10.50s on it so the tires shouldnt be pulling it around. any ideas on places to check or what i can do to stop this?
 

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Thats a computer carb with a O2 sensor and the works if its the factory.

I would start with the basics. Choke and vacuum lines.

Choke heating element is not that expensive. Check the resistance on the element. Most electric chokes are between 12-30 ohms. If its dead short or open then its bad. Dead short its probably blown a fuse as well. Verify 12v when running.

Now it being a computer carb it does have a choke pull off and other things that will cause simular symptoms. Bad Vacuum lines being the biggest.

I had the exact oposite problem on my wifes 89 Accord this weekend. Started fine cold but died once warm. You could hold your foot on the gas and keep it running.

Checked the choke and it appeard to work correctly 18.6 ohms. Started tracing vacuum lines. Found two with leaks and one that had started getting soft and turning to gum. It was on a mixture control circuit. It has sucked closed. 6 inches of Vacuum line fixed the car. Took me 2 hours of looking and scratching head to figure it out.
 

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olivedrabcj7 said:
also....ive noticed on this truck that it wanders back and forth going down the road and im constantly correcting it. it has 31x10.50s on it so the tires shouldnt be pulling it around. any ideas on places to check or what i can do to stop this?
Check for play in either end of the the drag link (rod between the pitman arm and knuckle). Get a drag-link socket to make the adjustment easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
no play in the drag link. everything seems tight. i had a friend turn the wheel back and forth on the driveway while i layed under it looking. i didnt see anything out of the ordinary. any other ideas?
 

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Check your tie rod ends for play, and check the drag link ends (the spring loaded cups at each end that are tightened by a large flathead cap/screw thing). Solid axle rig has no idler arm. If you check the tie rod ends and drag link for play, and that's not it, then it could be in your steering box, universal joints in the steering column, or it could be your alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yeah i didnt think i had an idler arm. ill check the ends again and i may just replace them all. It couldnt hurt anything and ill sleep a little better at night knowing theyre all new anyway. i know my steering wheel is crooked from the small lift kit thats on it. ill take it for an alignment after i do the rod ends. thanks guys.
 

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sloppy

Jack up the front of the truck, grab the wheels at the top and bottom, and push and pull to see if you have any play in the wheel bearings or trunion bearings (knuckle). The draglink should be adjusted where you remove the cotter pin, turn the flat screw all the way in, back it out 2 turns, then put cotter pin back in. The other spot "play" could come from is the steering shaft joint by the power steering box. Some steering boxes have an adjustment screw also. Good luck.

Jeff
 
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