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Discussion Starter #1
Alright first, I'm a newbie go ahead, let me have it.:flipoff2: Second I HAVE searched and read til I think I'm blind. I've read some conflicting stuff so I just want to ask so someone can verify for sure. I'm shortening a Ford LP Dana 44 for the front of my TJ (Chevy outers & spindles for 5 on 5.5"). Cutting off about 3" so it will land about 64" WMS to WMS. I'll be running a CV front driveshaft, and around 36-38" tires. I'm building it with hysteer arms and shoving the front axle forward 2 to 3". My question, with the pinion pointed at just below the T-case out. What castor angle should help eliminate the "Death Wobble"? I know I need to cut and turn my inner knuckles, I just need to know when to stop turning. Some posts have sworn by 1-2 deg. and others 4-5 deg. And also just for clarification, positive caster is top of the knuckle rotated toward the rear of the jeep, right?:confused:
You guys are gods.
Don't hurt me too bad.
 

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all those caster numbers look good

you don't need shit loads of caster - it causes problems

I would shoot for 3 deg

you are correct about positive caster. you want a line throught the kingpin to point in front of the tire contact patch

see what people here are running for castor and how they like it

my cruiser has 0-.5 deg (it sucks)

my tacoma has 1.5 deg i believe (doesn't drive extremely straight but that may be due to the bent frame)

a fullsize chevy has 3 deg (drives very straight)

some idiots run 7 deg (probably have issues)
 

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indyTJ said:
Alright first, I'm a newbie go ahead, let me have it.:flipoff2: Second I HAVE searched and read til I think I'm blind. I've read some conflicting stuff so I just want to ask so someone can verify for sure. I'm shortening a Ford LP Dana 44 for the front of my TJ (Chevy outers & spindles for 5 on 5.5"). Cutting off about 3" so it will land about 64" WMS to WMS. I'll be running a CV front driveshaft, and around 36-38" tires. I'm building it with hysteer arms and shoving the front axle forward 2 to 3". My question, with the pinion pointed at just below the T-case out. What castor angle should help eliminate the "Death Wobble"? I know I need to cut and turn my inner knuckles, I just need to know when to stop turning. Some posts have sworn by 1-2 deg. and others 4-5 deg. And also just for clarification, positive caster is top of the knuckle rotated toward the rear of the jeep, right?:confused:
You guys are gods.
Don't hurt me too bad.
Great, another fawkin newbie. :flipoff2: Search Fawker! :D

Just kiddin. From when I did my spring over shiznit on the YJ, I think my caster was set at about 2-3 degrees. It didn't quite return to center, and I did have a little wobble.

I think 3-4 degrees would be about right.

Welcome to the PBB. Here's your :beer:

Out
 

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5 degrees posative on a shortened dana 44 installed in a 80 inch wheelbase jeep 36" swampers driven on freeway from bay area to trails in northern calif.-goes down the road straight no death wobble no wandering just my .02 cents worth...................
 

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hey tj...


i asked the same question when doing caster research for my tacoma and the 44 i am using....

http://forums.delphiforums.com/tacomaterritory/messages?msg=73955.1


check out this thread...some great info ....


basically....if you are using new springs.... set your caster at 5-6 degrees of caster... it should settle at least 2 degrees



good luck
 

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yunaderis said:
basically....if you are using new springs.... set your caster at 5-6 degrees of caster... it should settle at least 2 degrees



good luck
THere is some good info for you
 

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better to have too much caster than too little.. most 'normal' cars shoot for 3-5 deg's of caster.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
caster ?'s replies

Thanks all for the info and thread links. I'm reusing my 4.5" lift springs (coils) so I don't have to worry about them settling. I think I'm gonna shoot for 4 degrees and try that. If that doesn't work I can always sell that axle and go 60's right. Thanks all.
 

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Re: caster ?'s replies

indyTJ said:
Thanks all for the info and thread links. I'm reusing my 4.5" lift springs (coils) so I don't have to worry about them settling. I think I'm gonna shoot for 4 degrees and try that. If that doesn't work I can always sell that axle and go 60's right. Thanks all.
Or ya know, you could always cut of fthe brakets, and totate the housing.. either way.

Garrett
 

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TJ's seem to do better with 6.
Your 4 link is totally different than the leaf springs. The leaves allow caster change while your 4 link does not. With the shorter upper radius arm, the top of the tube travels faster so that the tube itself does not limit travel.
You can not just and reweld the brackets. That would destroy your pinion angle unless you want to run double CV's.
Good luck
 

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highvolt said:
TJ's seem to do better with 6.
Your 4 link is totally different than the leaf springs. The leaves allow caster change while your 4 link does not.

uh, what?????? :confused:

4 - with a 4-link you can have as much or as little change in caster as you want (throughout the travel)

// links - equal length links = no caster change, otherwise you will have caster change

6-7 deg of caster is a lot, it greatly reduces the effeciency of the vehicle (a big concern to auto mfg) as well as really screwing with steering geometry, your tires stop turning back and forth and start turning up and down
 

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indyTJ said:
A I've read some conflicting stuff so I just want to ask so someone can verify for sure.

Buwahahahahaha.

Fortunately we could clarify everything for you. :laughing:

:flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
4-link geometry stuff

Maybe I should clarify a little more:
At the same time I'm doing this axle swap, I'm custom building a longarm 4-link setup (triangulated uppers) in the front and rear and stretching the wheelbase 2" in front and 6-7" in the rear (Hope to land at about 100-102". I'll be doing the geometry in SDRC 3D modeling software so I can get it right. I plan on making the lower links slightly shorter than the uppers so that the pinion will stay pointed at the t-case throughout travel (using double cardan front & rear d-shaft). I know with the unequal length upper and lower setup that the caster will change with suspension travel, but the only time I'll see a lot of suspension travel will be at about 3 mph. My original question should have included this I guess. I just need some feed back from guys running 36-38" tires on what their recommended caster angle would be at static ride height. What stock wranglers have from the factory doesn't really help because I've never seen a stocker (Jeep) with 36's. From what I've read doing searches on here, as your tire size goes up, your caster ought to decrease. Again thanks for all the feed back.
 

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I just finished a very similar project - narrowed a Chevy D44 for my scout. Anyway - went with 6 degrees of caster. It made all the difference in the world from the stock 0 degrees. But don;t get to crazy too much caster and you get back to the 'death wobble'.

I HATE NEWBIES!!! :mad: :mad: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

(I couldn't resist - I am still recovering from being jumped in as a newbie not too long ago)
 

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Hello all.

I have the same problem.

I recently have swaped a Chevy GM 12 Bolt and Dana 44 (Changed side) on My 97 TJ with Procomp Stage II lift and 35" tires.

I have set the caster on 5.5 º and the driving feeling is HORRIBLE!!! :( ... The jeep goes everywhere, and the steering is too sensitive.

Anyone knows the original caster of a 1974 Chevy Suburban?
Any sugestion of caster?

Thanks

Mariano Lozano
Santiago, CHILE
 
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