Joined
·
2,326 Posts
How are the chain drive cases holding up with built Taco's, especially with a doubler? Just curious if the planetaries are holding up to larger tires and the abuse of serious off-roading.
That's the kind of info I was looking. Maybe somekind of reiforcement plate to take some flex out of the case housing?Since the guy who owns my last Taco doesn't post here much, I'll update everyone on what's going on with it :grinpimp:
Setup: V6, 5 speed, Marlin adapter dual cased with 4.7's in front of a stock Taco 23 spline transfer case, D60/14 bolt, 5.38's on 40's. Had no problems with the input shaft breaking or any problems at all really but just recently he split the case. I'm convinced the case is the weak point on them but I have seen some broken input shafts.
Where it broke was right above the front output, not really anywhere you can add reinforcement plates to take the flex out.That's the kind of info I was looking. Maybe somekind of reiforcement plate to take some flex out of the case housing?
This is the setup I am putting together for mine. I saw the 4.7s on sale from Marlin this weekend and bit the bullet. Anyone ever do a side by side on the different gen chain drive cases?i have an 06 tacoma with a fj case anda marlincrawler4.7 holding up verywell for last year . wyatt has had his for i think 7 years he is on 41 iroks check it out rocksolidtoys forum
I was thinking something like a FROR t-case mount plate that would use the rear cover bolt pattern and I would bet strengthen the case and maybe reduce flex.Where it broke was right above the front output, not really anywhere you can add reinforcement plates to take the flex out.
If you're going to go this route (which is a good idea, Brian makes great parts, and the customer service is excellent) make sure everything works together/flexes the same. If the motor/tranny has more movement than the case you WILL break shit if you're 'wheelin hard. Make sure your motor mounts are in good shape or chain them bitches just like you would a 22R/RE/RTE.I was thinking something like a FROR t-case mount plate that would use the rear cover bolt pattern and I would bet strengthen the case and maybe reduce flex.
Bri! Why is this?? Always confused me.V6 23 spline case (stronger than the 26 spline)
Surface area. 23 spline is larger in diameter.Bri! Why is this?? Always confused me.![]()
That isn't rust, it's fretting.Supercharged 3.4, Auto, 2.28 in front of rear chain case. Works great going to and from the mall. :flipoff2:
I'm on my 2nd rear case, though. First case appears to have been assembled with the splines dry. Water (?) got into the cases and had all sorts of rust and spline damage on the rear case.
That happened with my old inchworm adapter also.That isn't rust, it's fretting.
I had a older inchworm doubler that had a single row bearing. The splines fretted and almos stripped out within a matter of about 2 years (truck is also a DD)
Current is a doubler with the double row, 4.7 gears and no fretting.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Had fretting on the splines, of course. Had rust in the crawl box. But who cares, really....splitting hairsThat isn't rust, it's fretting.
I had a older inchworm doubler that had a single row bearing. The splines fretted and almos stripped out within a matter of about 2 years (truck is also a DD)
Current is a doubler with the double row, 4.7 gears and no fretting.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
You bring up a good point! I believe the new owner of my old Taco has stock motor mounts still. And when I sold it, it had a FROR transfer case mount. That would put stress on the case more than anything.If you're going to go this route (which is a good idea, Brian makes great parts, and the customer service is excellent) make sure everything works together/flexes the same. If the motor/tranny has more movement than the case you WILL break shit if you're 'wheelin hard. Make sure your motor mounts are in good shape or chain them bitches just like you would a 22R/RE/RTE.