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Discussion Starter #1
are you guys chaining the motor down to battle crawler torque or what?
looked at rogers page, and would just like to see some other pics and opinions.
besides, i needs something to do 'till my shafts get back from jess.
thanks
 

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Idea is to fight crawler torque. If the chain is tight enough to keep the motor mount intact, but not tight enough to be tight tight all the time, it works pretty well from what I've heard. Benefits of burly motor mounts without the vibration transfer.
 

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Idea is to fight crawler torque. If the chain is tight enough to keep the motor mount intact, but not tight enough to be tight tight all the time, it works pretty well from what I've heard. Benefits of burly motor mounts without the vibration transfer.
hey scott, are your motormounts the same height as the stock motor mounts?? could you just run 1 of your motor mounts on 1 side of the motor( driver's side i think) and use a stock mount on the other side.that way you wouldnt have soo much vibration. or at least that seems it would work:confused:
 

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When I put the Buick V6 in my truck I had to use chains to limit movement to the side and forward. Saved on motor mounts and radiators.
 

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Yes, chaining the mounts works great. You only need 4 or 5 links
per side. I just welded them on bridging from the frame mount to the engine side.. It only took a few minutes. Do both sides though. You generate just as much torque in reverse as you do going forward. I have seen the mounts rip when you roll too.
 

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Toyotafourwheeln said:
hey scott, are your motormounts the same height as the stock motor mounts?? could you just run 1 of your motor mounts on 1 side of the motor( driver's side i think) and use a stock mount on the other side.that way you wouldnt have soo much vibration. or at least that seems it would work
Yep, it'll work, but like Zags said, if you only have a strong mount on the left, and you have to back up, you could rip the right side mount doing so.

That said, we've got quite a few customers who run just a left side mount because it does reduce the vibration transferred--they just have to be gentle in reverse.
 

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Would a crossmember like this help with the torque of a crawler box? I would think it would cuz instead of the x-case mounted in the middle it's mounted on both sides of the frame and can't twist as easy. I'm thinking of going with this style on my truck for that reason plus the gain of ground clearence.
 

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Idea is to fight crawler torque. If the chain is tight enough to keep the motor mount intact, but not tight enough to be tight tight all the time, it works pretty well from what I've heard. Benefits of burly motor mounts without the vibration transfer.
This is why I refer people to Rockstomper. He answered the question instead of pimping his product (unlike the occasional 6x6 vendor). Even though his product was a perfect fit for the application, and an excellent one for it at that. :D

:clapping:
 

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raptorman57 said:
Would a crossmember like this help with the torque of a crawler box? I would think it would cuz instead of the x-case mounted in the middle it's mounted on both sides of the frame and can't twist as easy. I'm thinking of going with this style on my truck for that reason plus the gain of ground clearence.
hey raptorman.... who makes that crossmember... i have seen it a thousand times but i cant for the life of me remember who makes it....:confused: :confused:


also... how much is it???
 

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Ok OK what size chain to use? I can't tell if it is 1/4" or 5/16" I would guess either one would do so......go with the 5/16"?
 

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83toy85k5 said:


hey raptorman.... who makes that crossmember... i have seen it a thousand times but i cant for the life of me remember who makes it....:confused: :confused:


also... how much is it???
I'm making my own. I've got the crossmember made already,just waiting for my dual adapter so I can put it all together and weld the brackets on the framerails. I'm in the middle of building my skidplate right now. I'm gonna build something simular to this.
 

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Just get a couple feet of some halfway burly chain from Home Depot and weld one end to the motor mount and the other end to the frame. Do one link on the outside and underside of the motor mount. Helps keep the mounts intact when you roll/flop.
 

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After much ado, I just welded a three link piece of chain, one end to the frame, one end to the dust cover on the motor mount. Allowing just a little bit of flexing, but not enough to break the motor mount. Found a few pic of it right here on the Pirate. bentyota
 

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I've run the chains for some time and still broke the drivers side. Now I'm using a rockstomper mount on the drivers side and chain on the passenger... I did get a lot more vibration but the new mount is bomb proof.

I also recommend carrying that length of chain in the parts box for trail repairs. (you know, for the guy who isn't running either and trashes the mount.)
 

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Alabamatoy said:
Uh, but the motor doesnt change rotation direction. Wont it still try to move opposite of crankhsaft rotation?
You're not fighting motor torque any more. Quit thinking about it like it's a ford escort.

You've got 223:1 gearing twisting the entire drivetrain the opposite of whichever direction the driveshaft is attempting to crank the tires. Next to that, the engine torque might not be insignifcant, but it's pretty close. ;)
 
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