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Discussion Starter #1
If the soft fuel line coming out of the bottom of the charcoal cannister is dripping some gas under load going uphill, is that normal, or is my cannister clogged? Engine was running fine.
 

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The bottom hose is just a vent, it does not connect to anything.

If your charcoal canister is leaking fuel, you have other problems! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

Check all of the related vacuum plumbing, vacuum valves, fuel lines, and fuel filler cap. Sometimes bad cap will not allow the pressure in the tank to equalize, and this can saturate the canister. If the canister gets too soaked with raw fuel, it may need to be replaced in order to pass a smog check.

HTH!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by ToyTech:
<STRONG>The bottom hose is just a vent, it does not connect to anything.
Check all of the related vacuum plumbing, vacuum valves, fuel lines, and fuel filler cap. Sometimes bad cap will not allow the pressure in the tank to equalize, and this can saturate the canister. If the canister gets too soaked with raw fuel, it may need to be replaced in order to pass a smog check.
HTH!</STRONG>
Yup, thanks. I've been having problems with the cannister being clogged, I'm too lazy to get it fixed...
It was dripping slowly after I stopped, 12 miles uphill under load. I think it's getting saturated in there (the cannister weights over a pound, seem high huh? <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> )
Is it safe to grab one fron a junkyard, or are they cheap enough to get a new one? Can I go to Napa?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Originally posted by fatkid:
<STRONG>I haven't had that problem since I switch to Matchlight. That stuff starts every time. <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
I'm glad you can contribute your Scout/Sammy expertise in this forum, fawker! <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
 

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I think if you found one out of a junkyard you'd be okay, just as long as that one wasn't dripping gas too <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

What year truck do you have? I have a spare canister if you don't have any luck finding one. E-mail if ya' want.

Oh, and since I've switched to clean burning propane instead of Kingsford, I've managed to keep my eyebrows <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">

Got gas? <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0">
 

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I may have a problem with my charcoal canister as well. After I stop the engine, I can hear what I believe is a small "air leak" coming from the top of my charcoal canister where the 2 lines go in. Of course it could be the tubes themselves not sealing right, but they don't move at all and it doesn't change the sound if I wiggle either tube. I will also have problems when I take my truck up in altitude say 3000 feet or more within an hour time frame. My gas tank will build up a lot of vapor pressure and I can start to smell gas as I'm driving and I have to stop and take off the gas cap to vent the fumes which will then vent for way longer than normal. Could this be caused by a clogged charcoal canister, or should I look somewhere else? Engine performance also declines when the pressure builds almost givs symptoms of a bad carb but it's EFI. If it's the canister, is there a way to replace the guts of the canister or do I have to go to the dealer for a "new" one. Don't see much sense in replacing a used canister with another used one that's probably clogged as well but always open for suggestions. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by Colorunner:
<STRONG>I may have a problem with my charcoal canister as well.
I will also have problems when I take my truck up in altitude say 3000 feet or more within an hour time frame. My gas tank will build up a lot of vapor pressure and I can start to smell gas as I'm driving and I have to stop and take off the gas cap to vent the fumes which will then vent for way longer than normal.</STRONG>
Exactly my problem. I run between 2000 feet and 7200 feet regularly, between the pressure change and the uphill load, I can smell gas, open the cap and vent the tank, and get dripping from the cannister. Once, I opened the cap some, and gas GUSHED out (like, under pressure!!!).
Guess I'll pony up the money for a new one.

Jim, mine is an '88 V6.
 

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Do you notice this with a full tank only? Mine only did this with a mostly full tank. After previous owner replaced the fuel pump, he hooked the vent and return lines backwards. It was sucking gas from the return (extends halfway into tank) when the tank was full, instead of just venting the tank gasses as it should.

The quick fix is to put a hole in the gas cap (previous owner did) or leave the cap loose so it can't form enough pressure in the tank to draw fuel (not smog legal). The real fix is to pull the sender unit and check.

[ 08-28-2001: Message edited by: Rynomite ]

[ 08-28-2001: Message edited by: Rynomite ]
 

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Originally posted by Rynomite:
[QB]Do you notice this with a full tank only? Mine only did this with a mostly full tank.

Of the times I've noticed the major pressure buildup, yes, the tank has been relatively full. Say for example, I pack up the truck for a camping/wheeling trip. Fuel up on the way outta denver (5280ft.), then drive say 1 hour up lefthand canyon to about 8000ft. and it starts to smell of gas while driving. If the tank's 17 gal or so, by the time i've hit 8500 i'd be down to around 12-13 gal so there should be enough air space to handle this pressure.

However, I'll hear the "air leak" around the canister even with an almost empty tank after it's been run.

Question is WHY does it build up the pressure in the first place as opposed to recovering it thru the system? (Not relative to simple change in altitude and how that affects pressure) Does a clogged/never replaced canister cause this alone or should we be looking someplace else?

No worry about the gas tank lines, it's never been replaced since it rolled off the line.
 

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mine fell off and the truck runs great! go figure huh
 

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FYI- I did some quick calling and the local yota dealership wants $216 for the charcoal canister. OUCH!! A search at NAPA and the zone came up nada. They can't even order an aftermarket replacement or such.

What has everyone who's replaced theirs used?

Is there a way to open the canister and replace the charcoal with standard activated charcoal like found in water filters and environmental filters? Has anyone done something of this sort?

Thanks.
 

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Originally posted by Colorunner:
Question is WHY does it build up the pressure in the first place as opposed to recovering it thru the system? (Not relative to simple change in altitude and how that affects pressure) Does a clogged/never replaced canister cause this alone or should we be looking someplace else? [/QB]
OK, I'm no expert, but this thing really doesn't do a lot for you. The only reason I can think that a canister would make you run rough is if it is full of gas and flooding the engine through the vac lines. Disconnect the can and try to dump it out. If you get gas, that would indicate that your drain is clogged. Other than that it can't affect the way you run.

Disconnect the drain see if the line is blocked anywhere. If the canister isn't leaking at this point, stick something up into it to see if charcoal clogged it up. If it's affecting the way you run, then the vac line is clear and the vent line is clear, it has to be the canister not draining.

Why the canister is full would be a whole different question though. It obviously accumulates some gas, but not enough to fill it on a regular basis.
 

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Originally posted by Colorunner:
<STRONG>What has everyone who's replaced theirs used?

Is there a way to open the canister and replace the charcoal with standard activated charcoal like found in water filters and environmental filters? Has anyone done something of this sort?

Thanks.</STRONG>
I've seen one made out of a coffee can and plain activated charcoal. I don't know how you could tell if it worked. It's for enviro purposes only.
 

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Rynomite- All that said, that is exactly the reason why I do not want to spent $216 of my hard earned money on a part like this. $216 towards suspension,gears... no prob, but for a "new" charcoal canister, makes me sick.

If I thought I'd get benefits from swapping a used one, I'd do that, but I have no idea of the lifespan of these things so if I go spend $ at a yard to get one just like mine thats bad, how would I know how to test it works. It's not like an axle or another part that inspection can solve. Also, are they interchangeable between yota 4's & 6's, 80's vs. 90's... any differences? I'm sure I can go to the yota yard for tons of these canisters from different years, not worried about that, just to know what I'm getting for my $. Do we have a resident fuel system guru here that can answer some of these ?'s.
 

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One thing I checked on the canister on my truck was if the check valves in the canister were sticking. According to the manual I've got if you blow compressed air into the canister through the line comming from the fuel tank air should come out the purge port and the vent port. It says that you can clean the canister by blowing compressed air into the tank port while plugging the purge port with your finger. For some reason it says not to use more than 43 psi. ??? Those check valves might be sticking. It didn't take me more than 15 minutes from unbolting it to sticking the thing back on. Good luck
 

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Originally posted by '89ToyMan Dan:
<STRONG>One thing I checked on the canister on my truck was if the check valves in the canister were sticking. According to the manual I've got if you blow compressed air into the canister through the line comming from the fuel tank air should come out the purge port and the vent port. It says that you can clean the canister by blowing compressed air into the tank port while plugging the purge port with your finger. For some reason it says not to use more than 43 psi. ??? Those check valves might be sticking. It didn't take me more than 15 minutes from unbolting it to sticking the thing back on. Good luck</STRONG>
Now that's not a bad idea here if it works. Thanks. Might have to go home and fire up the compressor and try this. Let's see, free air and 15 min of work vs. $216 at the dealer. Hmmmm..... Any one got other suggestions on cleaning/replacing this thing?
<IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
 
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