I thought for sure that the CJ5 axles were a few inches wider than the CJ2A/3A/3B axles.I hear you on the axle options and width concerns. I think the CJ's with the open knuckle d30 still have the same (narrow) rear track width as yours (correct me if I'm wrong!) The narrow/stock d44 with the right rims perfectly tuck a 31" into the rear wheel well on my flatty (though mine do rub on the inner fender a bit). I'm not sure this would hold true with a wider axle maybe others will chime in.
If you look at what mieser did with his FF conversion he made his spindle adapter wide enough to match the track width of the stock CJ d30.
I've got a nice set of 35s hanging around the garage, but I think they're overkill for the little flatty.I meant larger than 31. I don't have a rational reason to say that though. The 31x9.5 swamps fit perfect on a stock flatty and work great. They are good riding and balance good and have good traction even with the continuous tread down the middle. I just see the 32x10.5 or 33/34" options and think they look better and would give a little more clearance. I tried miesers old 32x10.5 radial swampers on my 2a and they definitely rubbed--but he ran them for years when his MB had stock springs. His wheels did have a little more backspacing than the rims I'm running.
Thanks! I'm rereading the Rango thread right now for like the 3rd time. I didn't realize I was in the presence of a celebrity. I love that build! All recommendations are greatly appreciated.Early pre 1972 cj5 stuff is basically same width as flatty stuff. When they changed to the dana 30 open knuckle front the axles got about 3 inches wider.
It just depends how much little stuff you want to do. I ran 32s of my flatty for years before rebuilding it. The stock flat fenders don't have a ton of uptravel, especially with old springs, and the frame flexes a lot. The most annoying thing was the turning radius with narrow wheels and too much backspacing.I wonder...
What would it take to squeeze 32s under the 3B? Any ideas about lift? Spacers? Would the Dana 25 up front hold up? Would I even need the overdrive at that point? I really only need to do about 50mph to get any of the places that I want to go.
I had considered that, but my expectation would be that it would bind with the Jeep up on the stands just the same as in the driveway. Nothing is out of the question though. I'll see when I drop the rear drive shaft and try driving it around with just the front axle engaged. The e-brake will still be in place and spinning.I had a tcase mounted emerg brake bind in reverse long ago...just a thought, it was a chevy
I have a friend in Belchertown that has a D30 with 5:38 gears and a Lock-rite for sale. Short money. Bolt right up to the 3B.My reluctance to invest much in my current D44 is mostly about the front axle. At some point, I'd like to go to an open knuckle D30 or maybe a built D44 and I want my axles to be the same width. I'd hate to throw too much at this rear axle only to retire it later.
The open style inner knuckles are the same on early CJ stuff, and related to D44 inner knuckles also. They changed once they went to unit bearings on the YJ Dana 30 in 1987.Apparently, there's a narrow track D30 available in my general neighborhood (thanks Nofender). However, there are no steering knuckles, spindles, or hubs included. I'm thinking that this might be an opportunity to score a later model wide track D30 with disc brakes and swap over all the necessary parts, but I'm really not sure what the compatibility is between the early NT D30 and later offerings. For instance, I assume the NT is a kingpin axle, but I have no idea when D30s went to ball joints or away from locking hubs. Should I consider piecing together a D30 or should I just hold out for a complete unit?