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H M F
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Discussion Starter #1
Saw this on Marlins BB yesterday and it got me thinking...




I started thinking of how to build my own out of parts I had. After drawing up what I had in mind and staring at the top of a stray t-case, another idea hit me.

What if you ground down the tip of the shift lever, and ground a little off the chunks that the shifter engages. That way if you're in 4lo and want 2lo, you can move the shifter to the middle and swing it between the 2 chunks, then move down and it all the way over to engage the 4wd/2wd selector. Then you can shift up into 2wd leaving the other side in low range.

Maybe this pic (below) will help explain. On the left would be your shift pattern. Still use the standard J pattern til you want 2lo, then follow the red line, and reverse it to go back to 4lo. On the right is what's under the shifter. The blue square is the tip of the shifter and the red is material to be removed.

I tried to measure with a tape, but might be off a little. Looks like the tip of the shifter is 6mm, and the notches that it engages are also 6mm deep. There is about 1mm between the 2 chunks. So that's 13mm total sideways movement of the shifter. If you grind down 2mm of the chunks in the red spots, and 1mm off each side of the shifter, it should clear and leave enough to shift easily.

That would make it 4mm deep at the notches, and the shifter would take another 4mm. Then there's still 1mm of clearance.
 

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H M F
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Aw crap. I just though of something else. What keeps you from being able to just follow this green line (without grinding anything, just moving the shifter out of the notches and around the the other one) to select 2/4 and still keep it in low? I mean, I know you can't do it. But what is the actuall piece that limits you from moving out of the lo/hi selector?
 

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it's already been done...

i just sold my twin stick to Lord Orange last week...

the only thing you need to do is take the detent pin between the shifter rails out inside the case (tear it all the way down)
 

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H M F
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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not sure I understand how that works. The pin is what connects the fork to the rail, right? If you pulled that, wouldn't the fork just slide around and not move the rail? Looks like the only other thing Evan did is grind one fork enough to clear the shifter instead of both forks, that right?

So what keeps you from following the green line in my previous post is the other fork cuz it's real close, not as far as my pic of it...
 

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They are very close together.

The detent pin goes in between the shift rods and only allows them to be in certain positions.
 

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H M F
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Discussion Starter #7
OK so this is what I'm seeing happening. The detent pin is pulled (I still have no idea where it is, anyone got a pic or can explain it?) then grind the fork to match and you can shift it like this...
 

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IM4yotas... I've had this done on my rig for morethan 6 months. Where you been? :p :p :p'

ErikB linked to it earlier:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=87613&highlight=Twin+Stick

Works great. I drive around all the time with the shifter on the right side, all the way back all the time, so it won't rub the tranny shifter in reverse.

A picture is worth a thousand words, so I'll give you one.

But basically, you're shifter is always "parked" on the right side of the shift pattern. Move it to neutal and over to the left side, choose either 2WD or 4WD... center it in on the rail, move it back over to the right side, and choose HI or LOW range. :grinpimp:
 

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Also, when you do your grinding on the fork - make sure you keep the edge either perfectly square, or else tapered in toward the rail slightly. Getting it out of 4WD with a pair of lockers in mid-turn means beating on the stick pretty good, and that way you won't also have to concentrate on keeping the shifter from sliding over.
 

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been using my homemade one for about a year now.... not as nice looking as yours though:)
 
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