[KNOX]

95 4Runner / CUCV Dana 60 and 14Bolt w/ 4 wheel Disc / 1 Ton Chevy Master Cylinder

Just getting my SAS and build about done. I am only waiting on drive shafts and a muffler but I can not get the pedal to feel right. I have bled the MC and 4 Wheels 4-5 times with the normal push the pedal method and suction method. I can not get the pedal to feel right with the engine running (slowly creeps to the floor). It feels great with the engine off though. Once I get the drive shafts in this week I will see how they feel on the road.

Any input or ideas on my issue?

Thanks

 

[OOP'S]

Did you bench bleed the MC or did you bleed it mounted to the firewall?

 

[KNOX]

On the firewall by cracking the lines

 

[the78outlaw]

No good. You'll probably be time and effort ahead to pull it off and bench bleed it.

If you are a cool kid and have access to a Mity Vac, you can just pop the brake lines loose, and bleed it on the vehicle.

Just my .02.

 

[KNOX]

Can I do each side of the MC one at a time with a suction pump from the output? I am making more work out of this being lazy for sure. I also wanted to make sure the 1 Ton MC did not always do that on the Toyota booster.

 

[stoutrockmar]

If you have plugs that fit the outlet ports you can do it in place. Plug off the out lets and pump it up. This bench bleeds the master. Some old boy showed this to me years ago. Didnt believe it would work till I did it. A lot less of a mess then using hoses that just keep bubles trapped. Also is your push rod adjusted/ made to the right length? If you made it too long ive seen it trap air. Ive had my 1 ton mc on my 2wd mini truck booster for 2 years no issues.

 

[the_white_shadow]

Your master may be bad. I had two reman ones that were bad right out of the box. What booster are you running? You have good vacuum going to it? Dual diaphragm?

 

[KNOX]

If you have plugs that fit the outlet ports you can do it in place. Plug off the out lets and pump it up. This bench bleeds the master. Some old boy showed this to me years ago. Didnt believe it would work till I did it. A lot less of a mess then using hoses that just keep bubles trapped. Also is your push rod adjusted/ made to the right length? If you made it too long ive seen it trap air. Ive had my 1 ton mc on my 2wd mini truck booster for 2 years no issues.

Thanks. I never thought about bleeding one like that. Guess I need to do some research and see if my pushrod is right as well. I used the Sky's kit

 

[KNOX]

Your master may be bad. I had two reman ones that were bad right out of the box. What booster are you running? You have good vacuum going to it? Dual diaphragm?

Running the stock booster. Not sure what type it is, but it does have good vacuum

 

[hill-billy]

I can not get the pedal to feel right with the engine running (slowly creeps to the floor.)

sounds like a leak in the system or bad MC. air in the system would be a soft pedal/ no pedal feel.

 

[OOP'S]

If you have plugs that fit the outlet ports you can do it in place. Plug off the out lets and pump it up. This bench bleeds the master. Some old boy showed this to me years ago. Didnt believe it would work till I did it. A lot less of a mess then using hoses that just keep bubles trapped. Also is your push rod adjusted/ made to the right length? If you made it too long ive seen it trap air. Ive had my 1 ton mc on my 2wd mini truck booster for 2 years no issues.

Never heard of doing it that way. Do not see how the air would get out of the front of the MC because the piston would cover the return hole not allowing the air to bleed out the return hole.

If you look at the MC with the rig sitting on all fours, the nose of the MC barrel is pointing up where air can get trapped in the end. In order to get the air out the barrel has to be level. In order for the air to get out, the return has to be uncovered or you have to have lines from the ports into the reservoir. But if you say it works, so be it.

 

[stoutrockmar]

If you have plugs that fit the outlet ports you can do it in place. Plug off the out lets and pump it up. This bench bleeds the master. Some old boy showed this to me years ago. Didnt believe it would work till I did it. A lot less of a mess then using hoses that just keep bubles trapped. Also is your push rod adjusted/ made to the right length? If you made it too long ive seen it trap air. Ive had my 1 ton mc on my 2wd mini truck booster for 2 years no issues.

Never heard of doing it that way. Do not see how the air would get out of the front of the MC because the piston would cover the return hole not allowing the air to bleed out the return hole.

If you look at the MC with the rig sitting on all fours, the nose of the MC barrel is pointing up where air can get trapped in the end. In order to get the air out the barrel has to be level. In order for the air to get out, the return has to be uncovered or you have to have lines from the ports into the reservoir. But if you say it works, so be it.

I never thought it would work either until I did it. It works. Goes against theory I know. Works so good I bought a kit that has all kinds of plugs of different sizes just for bench bleeding on the car.

 

[Von Wilsonator]

I have your identical setup KNOX. Had the same issue when I swapped to grown-up axles.
1st issue is bench bleeding as previously stated. Then the throw of the pedal. Our boosters are less than the GM M-cyl. All I could do, is modify a bolt with the same thread pitch to extend the adjustable rod coming from the booster.

This will help the throw.
Then a vacuum bleeder. $30 one from HF has more than paid for itself.
Once in the road(37s), I had brakes, but they weren't 100%.
Went wheelin (42s) for a weekend, and with all the off-camber terrain, it must've finished bleeding, cause when I got back on 37s on the road, it stopped like a champ! Suprised me a lot actually... And the guy behind me in sure.

 

[KNOX]

Thanks for all the help guys. I did the level the MC by jacking rear up and bled again on car and did not get any change. I bench bled it and got no change as well.

I went and drove it around and the brakes are horrible. You can barely even pump it and get a feel of brakes. The pedal feels great and not even spongy, but creeps to the floor.

I guess I will try the pushrod changes and see what happens before swapping MC's

 

[KNOX]

I have your identical setup KNOX. Had the same issue when I swapped to grown-up axles.
1st issue is bench bleeding as previously stated. Then the throw of the pedal. Our boosters are less than the GM M-cyl. All I could do, is modify a bolt with the same thread pitch to extend the adjustable rod coming from the booster.

This will help the throw.
Then a vacuum bleeder. $30 one from HF has more than paid for itself.
Once in the road(37s), I had brakes, but they weren't 100%.
Went wheelin (42s) for a weekend, and with all the off-camber terrain, it must've finished bleeding, cause when I got back on 37s on the road, it stopped like a champ! Suprised me a lot actually... And the guy behind me in sure.

Thanks for the pics Von

So the longer pushrod just puts more pressure on the MC sooner?

 

[KNOX]

Never heard of doing it that way. Do not see how the air would get out of the front of the MC because the piston would cover the return hole not allowing the air to bleed out the return hole.

If you look at the MC with the rig sitting on all fours, the nose of the MC barrel is pointing up where air can get trapped in the end. In order to get the air out the barrel has to be level. In order for the air to get out, the return has to be uncovered or you have to have lines from the ports into the reservoir. But if you say it works, so be it.[/QUOTE



I was thinking this could be it as well. I did not see any air come out when I tried it though and no pedal change.

 

[Von Wilsonator]

Thanks for the pics Von

So the longer pushrod just puts more pressure on the MC sooner?

Welp, when measuring it all out, I found that the pishrod wasn't even contacting the MC plunger until adjusted very far out... Too far out to seem reliable for me. I adjusted it a bit into the MC. Not too far obviously... Cause the truck moves. Took some trial and error.

 

[thursday]

i had to do the same exact thing von said. i used a 6 mm stud i believe with an old honda valve cover acorn nut on the end to extend the shaft. i also bleed my mc in the vehicle with the lines disconnected and tubes running out of the ports into the resevoir of the mc.

 

[KNOX]

I pulled my pushrod out last night and it is pretty close to the same length as Von's. I am going to put a new MC on it today and see if that changes anything.

 

[scottapher]

Are yall not using the supplied alum pushrod extension that Sky supplies with their one ton mc kit?