Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 105 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My current project is to stretch the frame and body on my TJ so I can take my family wheeling with me, as well as spares, tools, camping gear and a full size spare tire. Also, I would like to have enough fuel for 2 or more days of wheeling.

I decided to lengthen the wheelbase by 10", the front was already pushed 2". Final wheelbase is 105". To lengthen the frame, I used 3"x2.5" and 3"x2" angle iron and a 4" flat bar (not yet on in the picture), all 1/4" thick.

Also, I raised the stock gas tank a total of 7" so that it's flush with the rear frame. The rear bumper will be made from 5"x 3.5"x1/4" angle iron with a swing down tire carrier.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
post, subscribed.

Been wanting to do this mod, I will keep a close eye and share all of the details that I have thought about too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
My brain has completely shifted to thinking about this, so I will share.

My biggest concern is the strength of the frame in the cut/extended section. I see two+ inches of overlap, but that area will still concern me on the trail. A hard crossmember, with gussets, located between the extension on both framerails would be the best reinforcement in my mind, but incorporating it in without conflicing with the drivetrain is the hardest part.

Next is the section of fenderwell that will be left in that cut is where I would capitalize and store parts, gear etc... The wheelwells are huge no matter the tire size. I run 38" sx like you and there is so much room between the tire and the front of the wheelwell, its a mess. I think cutting in front of the wheelwell and moving the rear of the tub back would be ideal for extra storage. Further, there is ALOT of room behind the tire in those fenderwells and even more in YJ's for storage as well.

Food for thought. Keep us in the loop on your motivations and plans for the build too, I like the discussion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
I thought about this quite a bit as well. But, I was going to cut it between the door and the fender well. After I looked at it and thought of the work involved to put the body back together and then get a soft top modified....eliminating the ability for a hard top (not a biggie for some folks), etc, I decided it was a lot of work for the extra interior room.

I wish you luck, though. I hope you prove me wrong and it comes out awesome and is not too much work.

Very interesting how much you lifted the tank....7"...wow! What was there that allowed for that kind of change? Are you going to build the rear compartment around it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
JohnnyJ said:
Going for the gusto, eh? I didn't realize that you'd be chopping off the back of the frame.
The wife thinks I'm nuts for cutting my jeep in half :laughing:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
gripguru said:
My biggest concern is the strength of the frame in the cut/extended section. I see two+ inches of overlap, but that area will still concern me on the trail. A hard crossmember, with gussets, located between the extension on both framerails would be the best reinforcement in my mind, but incorporating it in without conflicing with the drivetrain is the hardest part.

Next is the section of fenderwell that will be left in that cut is where I would capitalize and store parts, gear etc... The wheelwells are huge no matter the tire size. I run 38" sx like you and there is so much room between the tire and the front of the wheelwell, its a mess. I think cutting in front of the wheelwell and moving the rear of the tub back would be ideal for extra storage. Further, there is ALOT of room behind the tire in those fenderwells and even more in YJ's for storage as well.
I'm really not too worried about the frame extension part, the rear roll cage will be directly connected to the frame. Here's a picture of the extension completed. There's about 3" overlap on each side and I used the angle irons because I can weld them inside the frame too.



For the wheel well, I will be riveting some sheet metal overtop and will cut the new sheet metal as it suits the new tire location, I have almost everything figured out in my head, but it's a little bit hard to explain. I know the possibilities are endless, I'm just trying to optimize my options to suit my needs. BTW I also have a 5gal air tank to fit somewhere...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
mtroy said:
I thought about this quite a bit as well. But, I was going to cut it between the door and the fender well. After I looked at it and thought of the work involved to put the body back together and then get a soft top modified....eliminating the ability for a hard top (not a biggie for some folks), etc, I decided it was a lot of work for the extra interior room.

I wish you luck, though. I hope you prove me wrong and it comes out awesome and is not too much work.

Very interesting how much you lifted the tank....7"...wow! What was there that allowed for that kind of change? Are you going to build the rear compartment around it?
Sold my hardtop last winter for 1000$ :D , as for the soft top, I have a few options: modify my old soft top to fit or use my tonneau cover and safari top and make some additions for the sides...

For the gas tank I have a 2" BL from before, plus 1" because I modified the stock gas tank skid, there's about 4" protuding inside the cab, again, it's a bit hard to explain right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
This is where I'm at right now:



New estimate 4link numbers:

Anti-Squat 134.13 %
Roll Axis Slope 0.10 in/in ("-" = roll understeer; "+" = roll oversteer)
Roll Center Height 32.80 in
Roll Axis Angle 5.56 degrees ("-" = roll understeer; "+" = roll oversteer)

Instant Center X-Axis 52.31 in
Instant Center Z-Axis 25.64 in

UCA:

Link Length 41.30
Link Weight 9.91
Link Force 4,621
F.S. Yield 9.14
F.S. Buckling 13.28
FS Bending 0.74
F.S. Rod End 11.90

LCA:

Link Length 35.24
Link Weight 11.32
Link Force -6,605
F.S. Yield 8.56
F.S. Buckling 16.18
F.S. Bending 1.10
F.S. Rod End 8.33
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,568 Posts
Can we get any side shots or anything more of the jeep?

Nice build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Here's a side shot, I don't have much room in my garage for a better one.



As for the frame paint, it's not POR, just regular glossy black rust paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Some more pictures of my progress:





I used 16 gauge plate for the body work, still have to rivet same plate to the rear quarter panel and cut new wheel opening. I also finished building the drop down tire carrier and rear bumper.

Let me know if you have any questions or comments.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
A bunch of replies got deleted due to the database crash.

I recently finished all the metal work and just primed the whole thing. I used the 16 gauge plate and bent it by hand around the corners, then, was riveted in place. I also made an extension for the little groove that the tonneau cover (or soft top) fits in.

Still have to run new brake lines (with Swagelok valve manual line lock), extend fuel lines and other electrical stuff.

Here's a picture, I will be building new longer rocker:

 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
11,307 Posts
Came out really clean. I am going in a similar direction, any pics of the floor rear inside? Also what sheetmetal did u use? For the bending by hand, for the corners, any tips, and what did u use to cut the 16 gauge, came out pretty clean.

Thanks,

Gui
 
1 - 20 of 105 Posts
Top