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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Welll the original lower crossmember in the rear was made out of thin wall pipe. So needless to say the first time he was hard on the skinny pedal it bent the shit out of the crossmember. Since then we cut out the old crossmember and used 2 X .25 DOM sleeved with 1.5 X .25 for the new one. Before this was put in we plated the about 20" of the frame with 5/16 plate all the way around. Also using some Smaller DOM to make the new gussets.

I will try to get some pics of the bent crossmember, it is pretty cool looking. I think he got the lowers welded back in so Hopefully it can be tested again soon.
 

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Mmackl1 said:
And den? What did I say it has to do with geometry, I was talking about strength.
Again, it has nothing to do with strength.

By geometry he meant the cross-section of the tubing. Mod. of E. only relates stress and strain in a given sample under a given loading. You were more than likely thinking of moment of inertia, however after you defended the wrong thing twice, I'm not sure anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Keith said:
I am right along with Doug on this one. The leverage those mogs create on mount points it amplified, esp with larger tires.
Recomendations and suggestions welcomed. We changed all of the link mounts to 5/16 plate also. and gusseted the hell out of the truss. And as said before the new crossmember 2" x .5" DOM is mounted to the 5/16 plated frame so hopefully it will be stronger. Keep the Ideas coming. I will try to post up some new pics soon.

Thanks
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
New pics

This is all old work that I finished a couple of weeks ago, but I am reporting it now. The damage happened when I got on it and broke the rear end loose. This little accident happened about 4 weeks ago.

Here are a few pics after it happend. The accident caused the pinion to rotate up and the drive shaft to rub the body a little.







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[snapback]142245[/snapback]​
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
The old one was made out of 1.5" sch 40 pipe with 3/16" gussets. The new stuff is made of 2" X1/4 dom over 1.5" X1/4 dom. The gussets are made of 5/16 plate for added strength.

The old gussets on the frame accually pulled the frame out about 1/2". To keep this from happening again I boxed the completley boxed the frame with 5/16 plate where the cross member is.



 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
shelljeep said:
He's also going to brace the center of the crossmember into the skidplate with a welded bracket that bolt to the skidplate.
Looks good Eric!
Yeah it already has a piece of 5/16 welded to the back of it that is about 2 inches wide and runs the width of the crossmember. Now he just has to weld some tabs onto the skidplate to bolt everything together and it should make everything stronger.
 

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Looks good. I bent the dog shit out of 2 of my crossmembers like you pictured. my last one is 2' DOM x .312 wall, gusseted just like yours and it bent too! (I thought of double sleeving it but decided not to)
I gave up on keeping it straight, re adjusted the links and have been running it as is for quite some time :laughing: It has never bent any more :confused:

Maybe it likes the radius.

I have yet to see any real numbers regarding the "Overtorque" that a mog axle develops.
I have not had 1 issue with the front either :confused:
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
weps said:
Looks good. I bent the dog shit out of 2 of my crossmembers like you pictured. my last one is 2' DOM x .312 wall, gusseted just like yours and it bent too! (I thought of double sleeving it but decided not to)
I gave up on keeping it straight, re adjusted the links and have been running it as is for quite some time :laughing: It has never bent any more :confused:

Maybe it likes the radius.

I have yet to see any real numbers regarding the "Overtorque" that a mog axle develops.
I have not had 1 issue with the front either :confused:
Good luck!
We sure as hell hope it doesn't bend. And the Highsteer arms are nice, and a little FYI stock mog rims don't fit over the arms without grinding everything and making spacers. This problem will soon be solved for good with Stazworks Double beedlocks so he can run the Michelens and take off those damn pizza cutters. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Finally got to wheel this thing and it worked really well. Just need to make some minor adjustments like bumpstops and work out the usual bugs after a major build. here are some pics. :)


Click here fo Miller run pics 7/05




And yes we are going to put alot more bars on the cage and fenders and everything else, So I'll be the first to say it NEEDS MORE TRIANGULATION. :flipoff2:
 

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I finally got around to wireing up the dash and Jeep. I got tired of twisting and touching wires together.

I would like to thank Searchers again for thier CNC plasma table which made my life much easier, even if I did have to cut it out 3 different times.

At this time I would also like to thank Kurt B for the 100,000 zip ties.

The dash is made out of stainless steel. This metal was originally on the side of an 18 wheeler tanker truck. My Jeep now contains part of an 18 wheeler :hardcore: .

I started by mounting a couple of fuse blocks. One 12 port box for everything inside and one 6 port for the relays under the hood. The boxes are marine grade and use blade atc fuses. I ran 2 guage power wire from a 100 amp breaker to each box.










I then ran all the wires to thier spot on the dash. This is where things started to get a little harry.





After putting the guages in I was able to clean up the wires a little.





I still have to make a box behind the dash to hold the computer. The guages light up red, as do the switches when they are in the on position.

I am currently putting some red lights behind the Jeep Cj7 and my name. When the lights come on the entire dash will glow red. Don't wory about it being too bright, they all are on a dimmer swich.

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