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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished doing the spring over on my 78 cj5. Im running seven pack springs with the military wrap. Heres my issue...........im poor lol. I know im gonna have to do some type of high steer setup, but dont want to purchase the kit. I'm still on stock axles.(I know, dump the 30) I'd really appreciate any ideas and pics that could help with my steering setup. maybe show me what youve done, or just share some info with me.
 

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I did this to a buddies cj. Its a 1" thick shackle mount for a bumper bought off ebay, welded on the knuckle with joint from local john deere store or use your own tie rod.
 

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Go to the junkyard and get some dana 44 flat top knuckles. You can drill the passenger side in a drill press and install anyones high steer arm. That is the cheapest "right" way of doing it. Remember, this is your life we are talking about!
 

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I just finished doing the spring over on my 78 cj5. Im running seven pack springs with the military wrap. Heres my issue...........im poor lol.
Buy a Dana 44 flat top knuckle, add a single arm to that knuckle, drag link to the knuckle. Tie rod will have to stay low, find an extra one for a trail spare.
If your smart about your money, can be done for under 150
 

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is this thing going to be street driven? If so I would not trust the tractor link tie rod or welding to the knuckle. Trying to machine your own knuckle is just asking for trouble, the surface has to be completely flat as well as very accurately drilled holes to prevent them from loosening. Save your money and do it right, its gonna cost a couple hundred bucks.
 

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ld50 is right you need to not do a shoddy job on this one. I was wheeling with a buddy that had some sort of welded contraption on the passengers side knuckle he had driven about 200 miles in his ride to get there and it broke on the trail. We had to take it off the mountain find a welder and rig it just for him to get off the trail. if it had broke on the interstate he would have most likely flipped.
 

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My "shoddy job" works and continues to work. Maybe the welds were not up to the job. The welds are not holding the steering together. The bolt still goes through the knuckle in the original position. I guess all high steer using a spacer will fail then. As for the tractor joints I have seen many guys use these as a 4 link for years with no problems. I have some on my 4 link which I trash and still have not broken them. Yes chromoly heims and johnny joints are stronger. I even seen the top truck challenge competitors use "tractor joints" before. They never broke them. I have also seen chromoly heims rip the ball out of them also. I think the dana 30 axle will break long before the "tractor joint" does.
 

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Jtjwrangler I was not knocking your job the high steer. The one I saw was similar to yours the bolt went all the way through the arm but the arm is what broke right behind where it had been welded. The arm is cast and if you don't heat and cool it at the right temps you are setting up for disaster if you travel at high speeds or a long night on the trail if it fails like the one we had. I have seen some bolted on high steer options if I can find the pics I will post the links.
 

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Depending on your lift amount, you might still get away with a low-steer option. Go to a junk yard and get the pitman arm off a Cherokee. Got mine off a '92, cost me $10. You have to saw a tooth into the indexing spots to make it line up right on your stock steering box, but it'll give you about a 4" drop on your drag link and should be enough to clear the spring. My drag link ended up almost level and I got no bump-steer.
 

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The issue is not with the welds, by welding that spacer in there you are increasing the amount of torque placed on the arm of the knuckle. A spacer on a flat top does not have the same effect.
 

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X2

High steer arms place a higher load on the upper ball joint meaning a higher potential for failure on the upper.

Your "fix", and I use that noun loosely, places an extreme amount of twisting force on the stock cast steering arm. I'm going to assume you didn't preheat the entire casting judging by the amount of rust present on the knuckle which is a further cause for heat-induced metal fatigue.

On the high steer end, it might almost be cheaper to wait for a Dana 44 with flat top knuckles on it. Get a pre 1977 Wagoneer Dana 44 and have the knuckles machined with some tall high steer arms and you should be good.
 

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I have been using this for a while with great success. Its cheap and easy. If I break offroad out in the middle of nowhere....cool. That all part of wheeling. Build it..... Break it..... and repeat. This is not the perfect way of doing it, but who way is correct? The best thing to do is a axle swap but until then you could buy a custom high steer knuckle.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
hey guys, i really appreciate all the ideas, Not sure which way im gonna go yet. but the pics and comments have really helped me figure out what im gonna have to do. I'd like to switch over to a 9" and a Dana 44 out of a fullsize Bronco but like i said, a little low on money at the moment. right now I'd like to figure out econonomical that will take a beating and come back for more with my 30.
 

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If you are gonna switch to a 44 later, use hi-steer stuff from a 44 and it will fit your new front end when you get it. You can use D44 flat top knuckles, hi-steer arms with spacers from whomever (parts mike, etc) and a caliper mount from Foothill with all of your stock 30 stuff. All of the new stuff will move to the 44 except the caliper mount.

edit: for that matter if you do a hybrid 9" with 44 outers, the same info applies
 
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