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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, hopefully everyone can help me out with some much needed info.

What I'm up to:

I'm swapping a newer Gen 3 (pretty sure a LS2) into a CJ-7. Scored the engine for $400 bucks so kinda had to do it, so don't give me crap about the choice on that! Mated it with a SM465 using a Novak adapter and took the old Dana 300 and had it rebuilt by my local transmission guru. The engine is in, a little lower than I would like (I also got some universal weld-in mounts from Novak) but it works. I'm sure some day I'll need to deal with the low hanging oil pan... but there are always things to fix. I've gutted the inside, and plan on putting in a Boregson column, shaft and PCS pump. Eventually I'll update the steering box, but I figure I can go out a destroy the current one first. I'm planning on swaping the stock Dana 30 and 35 with a 44 in the front and a 60 or 14 bolt in the rear??(see next section). Still not sure about the wiring and

What I need help with at this point:

1) Fuel Delivery - I've got a fuel pump, pre and post filter from Turnkey Engine supply but I'm struggling to find/figure out the best way to deal with the sending unit. The pump and filter etc are all frame mount. I was told I need a 1/2" out line from the tank... I know I could go with a fuel cell and put in the back but I'd really like to keep the storage in the Jeep. I got a new poly tank since the stock was rusted out, and would really like to use it - Anyone have a solution on this? A conversion sending unit????

2) Harness and Computer - I scored the computer and the original harness from the Tahoe when I got the engine. I'd love to save some money and use it but I've heard people have mixed results. I've found several guys online who say they can reprogram the computer and others that say for $1400 they can hook me up with a harness and the computer. I'm on the fence and thinking about a mix. Getting a harness pre-made from Painless Wiring (about $700) and then getting the computer reprogrammed for $100. Anyone done this before?

3) Gauges - I've been leaning toward the Auto Gauge Pro Comp Series, any things I should know about these?

4) What should run in the back? Dana 60 or the 14 bolt? I plan on 35's maybe 37's??? Depends on how this all goes together.

More Pics to Come -






Thanks in advance
 

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here's my 2c
Rearend wise with 35-37" tires stick with the 60. The 14b differential is just really big. I know, I have one. 38"+ tires get the 14b off the ground.
 

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First of what year is your motor, I believe 05 and up came with the drive by wire so you might have to pit that into consideration, and your motor isn't An ls2, it's a 5.3l vortec! If you have skills and are good wireing diagrams you can try to hack Into the harness your self or send it out and have it reworked so it's plug and play! Your also gonna have to send out the ecu and have the vats removed. As far as fuel delivery your gonna have to change your hardline to 3/8 I d ! if your only gonna be running 35s Or 37s I'd stick with a 60 out back because it doesn't hang down as low as a 14 bolt!

Philip!
 

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The guys at Novak adapters have a good wiring setup, for reusing and new setups. As well as reflashing. Novak can get all the stock gauges to work including the Tach which is really nice. Speartech and tech rod are other good sources for LS based 5.3 block

Stock around 275-315 HP

Look into a cam, supposedly GM just puts an LS came in the 5.3 jump power up.

The 5.3 Jeep forum under Jeep Hardcore has a lot of this info, but is hard to read through to get to what ya want. Keep this thread with important numbers and relative responses and it will be good.

http://www.speartech.com
http://www.speedscenewiring.com/LM7.html

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/index.php
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info, I was wondering if it was the vortec. When I took the fly plate off it had both a 4.8 and 5.3 marked on the back of the block.

I actually already pulled the fuel hardlines and was planning on getting some braided line from Jegs -6 AN http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/100914/10002/-1?parentProductId=752578 will that work?

Any ideas on updating the tank sending unit? I don't think that is 3/8".

I know general electrical but proably not enough to hack it together. Anyone have a contact that can rework it?? I'm guessing that would be cheaper than a new one. The Novak guys are great, so that is a good fall back. I've just heard that it can get pricey quick.

I was leaning towrad the 60 so I'll go in that direction. I've found a couple on Craigslist for $400 bucks.
 

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There is a 5.3 Jeeps thread in this very section that covers a lot of this. If you post in there you'll get more responses. The reason being is people will get emailed that there is a new post. They won't get an email from new threads regarding these engines into jeeps and will only see it if they click on the thread.
 

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as far as the sendig unit goes you can keep it stock and just run 3/8 line from there all the way too the injector inlet, the flex line will work, i just bought 3/8 stainless hardline and copied the bends from the stock one, wich is alot cheaper then buying the flex!
and for there harness i would spend extra money there so you know it was done right, speartech does really good work and can reflash your ecu as well!
 

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I used the diagrams from lt1swap.com and had very good success with mine. I'd save the money and do the work yourself, if you've got any level of wiring skillz at all.
As for the sending unit, you could drill a hole in the back of your poly tank and put an -AN bulkhead fitting of the correct size thru it. Then you can suck the fuel right out of the bottom of the tank. I'm sure someone will say that's the best way to make a bomb of your jeep or something like that...but it worked for me and hasn't leaked.
Oh, the LT1swap.com guy re-flashed my computer pretty cheap. He was very helpful.
 

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Blinging gold chains capable of suporting 18K lbs, I like...

Ah, I think Gen Right has a YJ fell tank that would allow more diff room for axle up travel and use their universal sending unit for different ohm ratings.

That is if ya go with 60, I would just use 60's front and rear. Running leafs?
 

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call Howell for your computer and harness needs, good people to work with.

Check out the 5.3 jeeps thread, a lot of good info
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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Discussion Starter #14
Update

Hey guys, sorry I haven't updated this in a while, but after a ton of house remodeling!! I'm back into it.

Got some pics.

I originally put the mounts in with the ones I got from Novak, but the engine sat too low so I did some fab work and here are the ones I ended up with.


Closer shot just before I welded them into place:


I used some pipe threads and some brass plugs to remove the heater core lines from the water pump:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Couple more pics for ya:

Hydraulic Clutch from Novak



Before I dropped it in


Couple Questions for you guys, sorry if they are dumb ones:

1) Gauges - I'm assuming since this is EFI all of the gauges will be electronic? Does that go for the tach and speedometer? Don't those usually attach to the tranny? To keep it cheap I was planning on going with plain old Jegs brand anyone have good or bad things to say about that?

2) Anyone have a good link to some documentation on the sensors and vacuum lines on a LM7? I have some missing parts for sure and need to know what to get and what can be plugged or routed to other devices, such as the brakes??

3) I saw in the 5.3 thread that someone was able to get one of these Smog passed with out EGR. I'm assuming that they put on Cat Converters. How realistic is this? I never really expected to drive this thing around town but if it is pretty easy and just means getting some cats it would be worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Parts

Here are some helpful part links:

Fuel Pressure Gauge
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/41043/10002/-1

O2 Weld in Plug (fits the GM sensors)
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/30740/10002/-1

Headers that fit within the frame rail
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker+Headers/520/2312/10002/-1

Dash Gauges (www.jegs.com)
105-4384 ULTRA-LITE VACUUM 30 HG
105-4391 ULTRA-LITE VOLT 8-18
105-4337 ULTRA-LITE WATER 100-250
105-4327 ULTRA-LITE OIL 100 PSI
105-4315 ULTRA-LITE FUEL LEVEL
105-4357 ULTRA-LITE TRANS TEMP
 
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