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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
rear 44 is shortened, just waiting for the shafts to come back from the machine shop. Started stripping the conferr seat to get it ready for paint and getting the other Conferr goodies together






 

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This is pretty Sweet I like the retro idea. I am doing sort of similar bolt on low tech / retro (80s/90s) Toyota build. Interested to see how this goes and what you can do with it all. I love the Hardcore cutting edge tech stuff. Old Skool is still cool though
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Found the conferr stuff on eBay, CL. Check it everyday, looked for over a year for a set of shackles.

Since I'm switching to a D30, and my Ross box needs a rebuild, i figure i might has well install a Saginaw box, not going power, just manual. Looked at Herms kit, dont like where the box mounts, The AA kit looks like it everything i need, It's pricey, but i need to get this thing on the road. I'm wondering if i lower the box, if i can get the shaft to go under the crossmember? I did on the 3A, it works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I think I'm going to rename this thread to the " So much for KEEPING IT STOCK CJ3B retro project". Still waiting for my rear axle shafts to come back from being shortened...in the mean time I have nothing to do but make more work ...damn the internet

 

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
Got the front axle in, but the steering is kicking my arse, I got most of the stuff from AA, and their guidelines for install are just stupid. I usually don't even look at instructions, but figured they might have something to say... thankfully I didn't follow them right off the bat, especially in regards to the box. THEY say to drill out the threaded box mounts and bolt through the box into their mount. Which in theory is ok, but the side of the box where the bolt head work rest is not machined, or really even flat. I'm no engineer, but putting all that uneven stress on the bolt head on something that sees the forces of a steering box just doesn't make sense. Had I just started following their instructions the box would be messed up. I'm going to do one bolt as they say, but will grind and file the surface flat. Going to have to rework the motor mount to make room for the shaft too.


 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
This should work out well, i took the stock motor mount, moved it to the top of the frame and made an arm to go from it to the stock engine side mount. We removed get stock bracket that is riveted to the frame but left the holes in the frame, they are under the wedge. So this can be put back to stock very easily. Now the steering shaft has a clear shot to the box.

 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Well this took way too long, but I’m Finally getting caught up, so i got the Saginaw steering installed, both axles installed, new master cylinder. I had someone set up the axles, and had to have the rear redone, first guy did a bad job. I Only redid the rear because didnt have the cash for the front right now, The Pro that redid the rear said The front at the least has too much pininon preload and the inside of the housing was dirty, he said dont run the front in 4WD it will ruin it, But i think I’m going to say, screw it and just run it around a bit, then drain the fluid and see how it looks.

Its steers and stops real nice now, but my brake lights aren’t working, and I still need to install the lokar ebrake setup and find a place to mount the OX locker shifters, mount the Warn Belliview on the front






https://preview.ibb.co/khGdSb/2061_D491_57_AC_43_DF_8_A50_79205_
[url=https://ibb.co/iVoQ7b][img]https://preview.ibb.co/dia57b/67_A98_B3_E_1_F6_B_4507_8_A16_66093_F1_C7_EB9.jpg



 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
We all know how tight space is in these Willys, i have been struggling to find space for 2 OX shifter and an Ebrake, Think i have it locked down, using the toolbox. Gives me a good space in the box to turn the front cable forward.


 
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