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Discussion Starter #1
Just wanted to get everybody's opinion. This what I have..

78 CJ5
Scout II 44's 4.56's Detroits
258 T150 Dana 20 (Next years project)

So far I've got the gears and lockers installed and the front end semi in. I'm running YJ Springs with Shackle reversal. I have 1.5" add a leafs coming if I decide I need them. I'm going to be running 35" Procomp X-Terrains.

Her are the pics so far:
http://my.choice.net/~timber/Jeep/

I'm curious about a few things that I haven't been able to get a definitive answer on..

1. My front yoke is between 2-3 degrees below the transfer yoke one of pics shows the angle but it's around 19 - 20 degrees. Is that to steep with shackle reversal?

2. I need extended front rubber lines I tried the 78 F250 lines but they're only about 2" longer than stock. I'm running stock CJ hard lines and Scout calipers. What should I use?

3. I would say the answe ris no but... Is there a way to get away with a standard driveshaft in the rear as opposed to CV with an SOA CJ5? It's mostly trail with a little in town driving and very minimal highway.

By the way I am a newbie but I've been lurking and searching for the past year or so. Search is my friend.. :)

Thanks,
-Chad
 

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Looks like you've done your homework pretty well.

1. That should be OK if you're not in 4-wheel @ high speeds.

2. I'm useing extended braided stainless CJ lines. I also moved the hard line from the through the frame mount to under the frame. A good parts person can probably go through the books & find something longer with the right ends for you.

3. I would say no. That was part of the reason I swapped out my D20 for a D18. The rear output is about 4" lower. I still used a CV shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks!!

I figured there's no way to get the rear to work without a CV. I actually have a CV shaft in the garage I snagged from the PNP. I just need to get it cut down.

Can't wait to get this thing done!!

-Chad
 

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Fawking excellent choice guy! But then, I may be biased;)

There is a Chevy line that will give you lots of extension, I believe it was for mid 80's 3/4 ton but your best bet is to make nice with the parts guy and start rifling through the description / pic pages of his brakeline catalogue. It does require that you drill the banjo fitting out a little and file down a couple of tits on the fitting but that's no problem.
Nice looking outboard brackets. Much fancier than mine. I would definitely use the cv in the back guy. For all the time it takes to remove and reweld the spring perches (to align the rea diff with the transfer output, it'll pay off in the long run.
Time to get out to the g'rage as mine needs going over before tomorrows run.

Have fun:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
McJeep said:
Fawking excellent choice guy! But then, I may be biased;)

There is a Chevy line that will give you lots of extension, I believe it was for mid 80's 3/4 ton but your best bet is to make nice with the parts guy and start rifling through the description / pic pages of his brakeline catalogue. It does require that you drill the banjo fitting out a little and file down a couple of tits on the fitting but that's no problem.
Nice looking outboard brackets. Much fancier than mine. I would definitely use the cv in the back guy. For all the time it takes to remove and reweld the spring perches (to align the rea diff with the transfer output, it'll pay off in the long run.
Time to get out to the g'rage as mine needs going over before tomorrows run.

Have fun:)
Thanks!!

My dad got a plasma cutter for Christmas so he actually cut up all my brackets (he was dying for a reason to test it out). I just welded them up but they came out a lot better than I had hoped.

I had a good contact at Napa till they closed the store by my house now I'm stuck with autozone. It seems like everytime I get in good with one of them they quit.. I'll take my old lines with me and maybe they'll get tired of running back and forth and let me back there.. :)

I keep getting nervous about my work since this is the first major mod I've done to this Jeep. But everytime I get closer to being done it feels damn good!! :D

-Chad
 

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I would be very leary of that front driveshaft binding up during suspension flex, and especially while climbing. what is your caster angle set at?
 

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Have you cut and turned the knuckles on the front end? Scout 44's come with zero caster and thus don't like lift. You've got to cut the knuckles off and rotate them for a better pinion angle.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I didn't cut and turn the knuckles.. I'm thinking I do need to turn the pinion up another degree or two just be safe.

The reason I didn't cut the knuckles and rotate them is cause it's mainly a trail rig. My old Dana 30 that I pulled out had 0 return to center and it really didn't bother that much since it saw very little street driving.

My caster is currently is about 2 - 3 degrees. I sent an e-mail to Jesse at high angle driveline to get his opinion and hopefully get him to build me a front shaft. But the current driveshaft angle does bother me a little bit..

-Chad
 
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