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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, been lurking for years, finally got some questions of my own. I got an 83 CJ7 that I'm currently doing axle swap, stretch, as well as a linked suspension. Pray for my wallet. as you all know, I'm running into a lot of snags. currently, I'm on steering. I have a chevy 10 bolt in the front that I just finished shortening. currently, it has flat top knuckles and is set up for high steer. The problem is I want to keep it low. I'm currently running 3.5" of lift and really like this height. after doing a few measurements, I will only have 2 or 3 inches of up travel before my drag link hits the frame. maybe a little more if I flip the link on the bottom side of the steering arm. Would there be any downside to doing y link steering on the stock drag link location to save some up travel?
 

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Hello all, been lurking for years, finally got some questions of my own. I got an 83 CJ7 that I'm currently doing axle swap, stretch, as well as a linked suspension. Pray for my wallet. as you all know, I'm running into a lot of snags. currently, I'm on steering. I have a chevy 10 bolt in the front that I just finished shortening. currently, it has flat top knuckles and is set up for high steer. The problem is I want to keep it low. I'm currently running 3.5" of lift and really like this height. after doing a few measurements, I will only have 2 or 3 inches of up travel before my drag link hits the frame. maybe a little more if I flip the link on the bottom side of the steering arm. Would there be any downside to doing y link steering on the stock drag link location to save some up travel?
You could also run a heim joint set up on the drag link and tie rod. Mount the tie rod below the the knuckle with the drag link above, look up Ruff Stuff 7/8 Heim steering kit. Did this on my build as I also did not have enough room with high steer arms. I'm not a fan of the Y set ups like the stock jeeps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You could also run a heim joint set up on the drag link and tie rod. Mount the tie rod below the the knuckle with the drag link above, look up Ruff Stuff 7/8 Heim steering kit. Did this on my build as I also did not have enough room with high steer arms. I'm not a fan of the Y set ups like the stock jeeps.
That's a good idea, if I'm not mistaken, you just drill out the taper and but a big old grade 8 bolt through both Heims? But sadly I live in Cali where those heims are illegal and it will be mostly street driven. has anyone had trouble with the law with heims?
 

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I drove for years in Ca with Heims and know many that still do...with Beadlocks also never had a issue.
 

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That's a good idea, if I'm not mistaken, you just drill out the taper and but a big old grade 8 bolt through both Heims? But sadly I live in Cali where those heims are illegal and it will be mostly street driven. has anyone had trouble with the law with heims?
In AZ but i haven't had issues. Only thing that takes a bit to get used to is that the tie rod will roll a bit with hyd assist.
 

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blatant asshole
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In AZ but i haven't had issues. Only thing that takes a bit to get used to is that the tie rod will roll a bit with hyd assist.
That is common with t steering and one of the draw backs to it.

Yes you can y link steering using the eyelet gm tree. I've done it befor for jeeps. You need to be sure which way the eyelet end faces because you have to ream the eyelet out for the tre.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is a dumb question, but I keep seeing people label T and Y links differently depending on the forum. but to my understanding, Y link is tie rod connected at both knuckles and drag link to tie rod, and T link is drag link directly to pitman arm and tie rod to drag link. or do I have that backwards? I'm more interested in the method that connects the tie rod at both knuckles. my thinking is that because I am so low, the angle of the tie rod is going to be extremely manageable in this config.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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You are very backwards.

T steering has a tie rod going from knuckle to knuckle and the drag link attaches to the tie rod.

Y steering has the drag link go from the Pitman arm to the passenger side knuckle and the tire rod attaches the drag link to the driver side knuckle.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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OP, Adding y link steering will cause your toe to change as your vehicle suspension moves.

My preference would be to weld up the steering holes in your high steer arm and machine them so that the ball joint goes under the arm. That should give you two or 3 inches more bump travel at least.
 

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blatant asshole
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Stock yj/tj/xj the steering toe with articulation is a significant issue. Useing the gm tre system puts the hinge of the y so close to the knuckle it's a non issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Appreciate all the corrections and recommendations. Now I think I'm leaning towards T link. I've also seen those "Cure" bushings that ruff stuff sells that help with the tie rod roll. another question I got now( might need to start a new thread) if it came down to it, has anyone notched their frame for their steering? I'm really shooting for 5-6" of up travel while staying low
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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Appreciate it Beat. I think I will do that. probably 3/16" steel?
Something similar at least to whatever your factory frame thickness is. I imagine it’s closer to an eighth.I would go thicker but not thinner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, doing some rough mock up, I decided to go with T link. now I'm a little unfamiliar with the geometry of a T link. i was thinking of doing TRE on top of the knuckle, but the tie rod and drag link will be parallel, is this a problem? as in they are both at the same angle, parallel to the ground. if it is, I can put it to the stock location of TRE under knuckle to give the Tie rod a little bit of angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Also, is using an Astro van pitman arm that is shorter going to ruin my turning radius? from my understanding, a stock CJ pitman arm doesn't have enough meat for 1 tone TREs
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
my tie rod is already completely flat with a T link, I don't think I should use a drop pitman arm. I'm also having trouble finding an Astro arm, so I'm looking at Parts Mike blank pitman arm but it will take almost a month to get here. however, If I flip the tie rod to under the knuckle, I might get away with a drop pitman arm
 

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blatant asshole
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Ok, doing some rough mock up, I decided to go with T link. now I'm a little unfamiliar with the geometry of a T link. i was thinking of doing TRE on top of the knuckle, but the tie rod and drag link will be parallel, is this a problem? as in they are both at the same angle, parallel to the ground. if it is, I can put it to the stock location of TRE under knuckle to give the Tie rod a little bit of angle.
Its not going to hurt steering but you need to make sure they wont hit when the suspension cycle up on the drivers side.


The shorter pitman will cost you turning radous only if you run out of throw before you hit the stops. That being said, its a cj with a short wheel base, youll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Appreciate all the help I think I'm gonna stick with T link above the knuckle. now just gotta figure out the steering box location. I ordered the MORE steering bracket that moves it forward an inch, then I think the ill move that whole bracket 2" forward to give me 3" total stretch. will the steering shaft be a problem moving the steering box forward 3"?
 
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