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1984 Toyota Pickup 4x4, doubler, 5.29 gears, spool in rear, locker up front, 39.5 iroks, Full Hydro
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am taping off my fender and cutting it with an angle grinder and cut off wheel. The plan then is to bend it over on itself so it doesn't have a sharp edge. Here are some pics. The fenders have already took some hits, as you can see. I still need rear bumpstops, but this section of fender has to go.

Any last words before I cut?

If I am not suppose to post stuff like this, I can delete it. I just enjoy showing progress on the rig.




Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Hood

Tire Wheel Vehicle Hood Car
 

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1989 Jeep Cherokee
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It’s easier to cut more than weld it back on. Flex it a lot and make sure it clears everything you want it to. I limited my rear more than I had to so I would t have to cut a bunch up front. When I would lift my front more and more it would flex the rear, but also started rotating around the bump stop more and the front tire got more into the fender/grill.

I’m in an XJ with a 3 link and coilovers so if you’re on leafs it will be totally different.


Oh yeah. Plan on going bigger tires. Easier to cut now than later.
 

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1984 Toyota Pickup 4x4, doubler, 5.29 gears, spool in rear, locker up front, 39.5 iroks, Full Hydro
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you.
I will flex it. The front firewall needs done next. But I may wait for warmer weather for the front.

I know this section with the electrical tape is hitting. And I am taking it to the rear rock slider. I will start there and flex some. It is already cut/bent to the filler. I am hoping I don't have to go higher than the filler.

FYI I want to keep the bed. It is on leafs right now but am considering links with the tucked in coilover mounts by 4wheelunderground in the future. And would consider the f150 gas tank upgrade with that. But not right now.
 

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Your truck looks like my 88. I was only running 35's so I never had to cut. The 86 I'm building right now is 4 Wheelunderground 3 link front and 4 link rear with 37's. I had to get rid of my air box and battery up front to make larger wheel wells but, I didn't need to cut the fender. My axle is moved forward though. I did have to trim the pinch weld at the footwell and trim part of the radiator support outer edges below the battery box and air filter areas. Weird that it flexes so well and doesn't hit the fenders themselves.

The rear I had to cut to the flat edge around the opening. Kept the same basic outline, just removed the flat section. I taped it like you did and left 1/2" to bend under. I had to cut a few slits in the curved section to keep it from wrinkling. I slowly worked it under a little at a time and kept going back and bending it a little further until complete. I used a hammer and dolly to keep the edge sharp/crisp, not rounded looking. I used a crescent wrench and vise grips to grab and bend.

I'm running the OEM rear IFS axle and OEM 85 straight axle. 3.5" back spaced wheels. Look like yours, Raceline Beadlocks. 37-12.50-17 tires.

I have a build thread but it's on Ih8mud.
 

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1984 Toyota Pickup 4x4, doubler, 5.29 gears, spool in rear, locker up front, 39.5 iroks, Full Hydro
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awesome info. Thank you

Yeah, I think this rig is IFS rear axle and the front I am not sure. But the front also has 3.5" backspacing with a 2" wheel spacers. Good stuff! Keep it coming.
 

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1984 Toyota Pickup 4x4, doubler, 5.29 gears, spool in rear, locker up front, 39.5 iroks, Full Hydro
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think AzToyMan did better work. I didn't have the gooseneck vice grips, but I did have standard vice grips. So it bulged a little and was rougher than it could be. I also used a ball peen hammer and rubber hammer. I was a little concerned about sharp edges where the body had some 90 degree joints. I don't feel like I have to get the welder going for this. I think the edges are smooth enough. See pics:
The pics didn't load in order sorry

Water Automotive tire Tire Tread Road surface

Hand Tire Automotive tire Hood Tread


Finished line
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Synthetic rubber

Automotive tire Gas Pipeline transport Automotive exterior Composite material


Finished line
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle

Automotive tire Wood Gas Tints and shades Automotive wheel system

Wood Gas Tints and shades Electrical wiring Concrete

Wood Gas Tints and shades Automotive tire Concrete


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Synthetic rubber
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle
 

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1984 Toyota Pickup 4x4, doubler, 5.29 gears, spool in rear, locker up front, 39.5 iroks, Full Hydro
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The more you cut off the less tire damage and dragging it across rocks will happen. It’s a wheeler not a pavement princess. Cut it and have fun.
Lol...right on

I thought I did it pretty rough. But considering it is functional, I am happy with it
 

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1984 Toyota Pickup 4x4, doubler, 5.29 gears, spool in rear, locker up front, 39.5 iroks, Full Hydro
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The front bottoms out on the firewall before the rear gets close to bottoming out. I will resurrect this thread to do the front firewall. I need to get the body sealer and sheet metal for the new firewall. Once that is done, I should really be able to flex it / off-road it. At least then, it will be ready for hunting.

Thank you everyone! You rock.
 

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1,138 Posts
The front bottoms out on the firewall before the rear gets close to bottoming out. I will resurrect this thread to do the front firewall. I need to get the body sealer and sheet metal for the new firewall. Once that is done, I should really be able to flex it / off-road it. At least then, it will be ready for hunting.

Thank you everyone! You rock.
Depending how far you need to move it a bfh might work.
 

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1984 Toyota Pickup 4x4, doubler, 5.29 gears, spool in rear, locker up front, 39.5 iroks, Full Hydro
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Is this too aggressive of a cut for the front. The top is into the venting. I am getting ready to cut this with tabs for the inner fender.
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire


Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Car


I could change it now if it looks ugly.
 

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Is this too aggressive of a cut for the front. The top is into the venting. I am getting ready to cut this with tabs for the inner fender.
View attachment 3128262

View attachment 3128261

I could change it now if it looks ugly.
I’d cut it, if it gets into the inner fender well you can always reshape the steel that was cut out, weld it and use seam sealer . I like the idea of not cutting up tires .
 

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1984 Toyota Pickup 4x4, doubler, 5.29 gears, spool in rear, locker up front, 39.5 iroks, Full Hydro
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I would like to go higher and square it off, instead of having two angles coming down. But the ducting and other stuff is mounted up there. Maybe I could persuade it an inch or two with a hammer where the ducting is and then I will weld in the rest? Hmmm

I will start cutting tomorrow and try to get the right lines.
 
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