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Looks like you need more air via a better turbo, but maybe I missed what you have on there now.

Btw, how do you like the afc live? I came across that when I was looking at a 12v Dodge. I was really hoping get to play with one.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Looks like you need more air via a better turbo, but maybe I missed what you have on there now.

Btw, how do you like the afc live? I came across that when I was looking at a 12v Dodge. I was really hoping get to play with one.
Stock tired HX35 turbo.

AFC LIVE works well but could be better if I'm not so overfueled. Lol

12v Cummins are good motor and just need to know what to look for and how to tune them.
 

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clutches do not see hp, only flywheel torque, so a hp rating is meaningless in this instance
Electronic governed engines are really cool in this regard, as you can set up the turbos to spool early, but limit the fuel down low and keep the torque in check, while still having fuel come in when the revs are up to get good HP output.

back to the topic at hand, I've been running a little quartermaster twin disc 7.25" clutch on my daily POS, it's rated for 500 ft/lb with the light spring it's got, with stiffer springs it'll go up to 800ft/lb, then go to a triple or 4 plate and the ratings go through the roof. It slips well and will supposedly deal with lots of heat being a sintered cerametallic lining, but I've never gotten it all that hot. The pedal's lighter than stock was, and it hooks up solid even when you pick the wrong gear (big mismatch in revs).

Got it on ebay for $120 used, ex-nascar stuff. You'll need to get discs though as the input on your trans is 1.25x10, quartermaster stocks the hubs, tilton doesn't, but all manufacturers' discs interchange for the most part. Tons of them on ebay all the time in the $300 range, and you'll need to do some wierdness for a flywheel. Common thing to do is use an auto flexplate for the starter ring gear, then sandwich on a custom button flywheel for the clutch to ride on. You should have a lathe already if you're looking to be a cheap bastard.

So far as wear, same as any clutch, they last as long as you make them last. If you've got a low range, use it for tight maneuvering rather than burning the shit out of the discs.
Is there any reason you couldn't just re-drill a stock flywheel for the 7.25 pressure plate?
 

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Is there any reason you couldn't just re-drill a stock flywheel for the 7.25 pressure plate?
the ID of the step for the crank bolts is likely bigger than the OD of the discs
you could bolt on a plate, then the clutch to that. Make sure to measure the position of the input splines, might have to cut down the stock fw quite a bit to get them to catch the discs with the added plate.

ETA: finally googled the afc live thing, looks like it just puts regulated pressure behind a check valve to the afc diaphragm, so it only really does anything before the turbo spools. Neat but not all that useful imo
Toss a bigger turbo on it and you'll reduce your low end peak simply through moving your spoolup a little later, may gain some top end if you're smoking up there (have fuel available), or you're running out of turbine flow (lots of backpressure).
 

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$1,000+ is stupid for a clutch yes. but i dont think you will find a cheap clutch that could hold the torque you're putting out unless you're careful with your right foot.

that being said, i ordered a DD organic valair ($1,395) for my truck. hurts paying that much but i'd rather do it once or at least know i wont need to do it again for a long time.

do it, cry a little, eat instant noodles for a week or so.
 

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that being said, i ordered a DD organic valair ($1,395) for my truck. hurts paying that much but i'd rather do it once or at least know i wont need to do it again for a long time.
My buddy tried that philosophy.... swapping his used $$$$ clutch into another stock-hp 2ndgen. He broke the input shaft in about a year. A little clutch slip wrecks less stuff. :homer:
 

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My buddy tried that philosophy.... swapping his used $$$$ clutch into another stock-hp 2ndgen. He broke the input shaft in about a year. A little clutch slip wrecks less stuff. :homer:
what type of clutch? organic? ceramic?

i got a DD organic which is NOT made for aggressive driving. curious how he broke and input shaft on a stock 2nd gen.

also, im not hunting for power on my truck. just want something that will hold it on a delete tune since the stock clutch is garbage.
 

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what type of clutch? organic? ceramic?

i got a DD organic which is NOT made for aggressive driving. curious how he broke and input shaft on a stock 2nd gen.

also, im not hunting for power on my truck. just want something that will hold it on a delete tune since the stock clutch is garbage.
Ceramic. 35" tires. Detroit locker. Don't know what he was doing... but what can you do with 160hp? :laughing:

If we're talking tuners.... other buddy is running a dual-disc in his 3rdgen with 600rwhp. So far so good.
 

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Ceramic. 35" tires. Detroit locker. Don't know what he was doing... but what can you do with 160hp? :laughing:

If we're talking tuners.... other buddy is running a dual-disc in his 3rdgen with 600rwhp. So far so good.
its all about the torque.

35s and a locker with ceramic clutch. somethings got to give...



Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Ceramic. 35" tires. Detroit locker. Don't know what he was doing... but what can you do with 160hp? :laughing:
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torque breaks parts
200lbs of rotating mass means that your instantaneous torque isn't your engine's max, but instead the max your clutch will hold, if your clutch is good for a couple thousand, your driveline past it better be good for it too.
 

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Looks pretty chinesey
get an unsprung disc if you can, the sprung ones tend to destroy themselves in a hurry with ceramic
esp. if you're the type to try and gently slip your clutch into engagement. Makes for some interesting banging once it's worn into full face contact, the banging can bottom out the spring travel in the hub and mangle the stop rivets over time. Proper ones got enough spring for the torque rating of the lining, but that's rarely the case in aftermarket stuff.
 

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torque breaks parts
200lbs of rotating mass means that your instantaneous torque isn't your engine's max, but instead the max your clutch will hold, if your clutch is good for a couple thousand, your driveline past it better be good for it too.
Yes - obviously the logic behind the failure.

Goes to show a cheap grabby clutch isn't a cure-all.

Dual-disc is what more of the 300+ hp guys in my circle are running without failure. But it does increase the rotating mass, and makes shifting a little slower.
 

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Ceramic button clutches "can" hold pretty decent, but they are grabby as hell on takeoff. I'd honestly hate to see an unsprung ceramic button disc...
you get used to it pretty quick

sprung/unsprung can't really be felt from the driver's seat, the marcel spring is what makes smooth engagement, not the shock damping springs. Marcel spring can't really be done on ceramic

oh and a grabby clutch will make you want tight motor mounts pretty quick
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I contacted Schaeffler tech support and they said the LuK# 05-181 clutch kit is rated to hold around 740 ft•lbs
 

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I threw in some performance goodies on my truck and I am plagued with slipping clutch whenever I drop the hammer. :homer:

My truck is 97 Ram 2500 with the NV4500 but this topic can be applied to other years as well (as far as up to ~2012, apparently they didn't change the clutch system on them very much for at least two decades!)

I honestly don't want to pay over $1,000 for performance clutch kit from either South Bend or Valair. That's outraged considering how much stock replacement clutch sell for, imho anyway. From what I've read online their clutch components have "LuK" on them.

Rockauto sell stock replacement clutch kits for ~$120-$300.

Also Rockauto list a "Heavy Duty" LuK clutch kit; 13inch dia disc WITH starter spacer, longer starter bolts, new flywheel, etc. ~$400 everything needed for a clutch job! More Information for LUK 05181

I've been trying to find out what's difference between LuK's clutch kits. I'll love to find out if there's a way to have a towing clutch set up that will hold up to my new found power on a budget.

Did anyone have success with a sub $500 clutch set up with turned up diesel power? 400-500 hp in general
You will end up buying 2 clutches, one that you will burn up fast, then a South Bend if you try to be cheap about this. $1k isn’t that much if it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
You will end up buying 2 clutches, one that you will burn up fast, then a South Bend if you try to be cheap about this. $1k isn’t that much if it works.
The stock, unidentified clutch set I reuse when I did the NV4500 is still holding fine under normal use for the last 5 years. The truck dyno’d 400/1000 with the AFC LIVE switched to full fueling. The clutch will not slip when not switched to full fueling on the road. FWIW

I bought my 05-181 clutch kit for like $350 and because my truck isn’t a race car or sled puller. I’ll detune accordingly since I finally got a number on torque rating of this clutch kit.

47RE will go back in before I’ll consider south bend or valair.... Tbh.
 
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