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I posted a question about this a few days ago but need a little more info.

Zags, you said you'd get the solenoid (and switch, if it's cheap) from ARB. Is the solenoid electrically operated? Is the ARB switch turing the solenoid on (open) and off (venting)?

Randy at AOR thinks I may need the ARB wiring harness to run this setup. I'm not real sure, but I think if I have an air line from the diff to the solenoid, an air line from the solenoid to the CO2 tank, 12 volts to the solenoid, and a switch to activate the solenoid, I should be covered. Am I right?

Thanks for any help,

Allan
 

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Originally posted by Chris Geiger:
<STRONG>You will also need a pressure limiting valve from Power Tank to make sure you don't exceed the max pressure.</STRONG>
Steve is also making a manifold just for the purpose of running ARB's off of the Power Tank. Make sure that you turn the power tank off when stopped for an extended period, ARB's do have a tendency to leak a bit when you are not rolling. You can just use a toggle switch to control the solenoid.
 

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Yes, the solenoid valve is electrically activated. The ARB part number is 180103.
the ports on the solenoid are 1/8" bspt.
The adapter fitting to 5mm hose is part no.
170201. The arb switch lights up and stuff this is how I wired it.
<IMG width=400 height=300 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/arb.gif">
Use a 30 amp fuse for 12v source. (I wired it to an accesssory source so it shuts off when I turn the key off) go from the switch to the solinoid valve to ground. (it doesnt matter which way you wire the solenoid)You don't need an arb harness. The power tank regulator maxes out at about 160 psi. and that should be safe for the arb.Pm me if this isnt clear enough. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by zags:
<STRONG>The power tank regulator maxes out at about 160 psi. and that should be safe for the arb.Pm me if this isnt clear enough. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
If you run the ARB at 160 PSI you will blow all of the seals out of it, 100 PSI is the max.
 

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Just go to your local diesel truck parts store and buy an air toggle switch.........DONE!
Turn your regulator on your CO2 tank down to 75 PSI.........DONE!
I have this setup for a back up, incase my ARB compressor fails. The only thing that I have herd that might be bad is CO2 tends to dry out rubber seals so using air tools with it ALOT is not recommended. I don't know, that is just what I have been told.
 

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An ARB compressor will run 200 psi. I run my regulator at 60 psi and my locker works great. I dont see a need to further regulate the pressure. Be sure to change the gear oil often! it will make the O-rings last alot longer. I have accidentally run my ARB at 160 psi after resetting the bead on a tire and it still doesnt leak at all.I did, however, find myself in the middle of a really tough trail and very low on CO2. I am going to buy a cheap 12v compressor that plugs into the cigarette lighter as a backup. the ARB needs very little volume to work. Otherwise,my setup works great.
<IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0"> Whatever parts you use, make sure the system vents to atmosphere when shut it off.

[ 08-29-2001: Message edited by: zags ]

[ 08-29-2001: Message edited by: zags ]
 

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Originally posted by desertoy:
<STRONG>The only thing that I have heard that might be bad is CO2 tends to dry out rubber seals so using air tools with it ALOT is not recommended. I don't know, that is just what I have been told.</STRONG>
<font color="yellow"> That's what pneumatic tool oil is for. You're actually supposed to run DRY AIR and oil an air tool before and after every use - but no one really does these two things. IMO, an air tool wil stand up to Co2 fine if oil sufficiently.
</font>
 

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The o rings in the diff are being bathed in oil all the time,i think they would be o.k.
Although a few drops of air oil in the line once in while couln't hurt..... <IMG SRC="smilies/cool.gif" border="0">
 

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Dude just call Steve at Power Tank and he will set you up with everything you need. He is great for answering all your questions.
 

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I asked about CO2 and ARBs once upon a time on the Jeep Tech page.
I will try to find the address.
What I was informed was that the CO2 is extremely corosive to the metals used in the ARBs, and would lead to premature failure.
As far as the seals go, the diff oil is on the outside of the seals, the dry, cold CO2 on the inside <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> , the seals would rot out from the inside.
 
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