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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
well its tuesday so flame away for this stupid question.

im currently running 3x14 triple tube bypasses with deaver leaf springs on my rig. going to links so will need to buy coil overs. is there any advantage to buying larger coil overs if they are just there to hold the weight if the rig if the bypasses is doing the damping. would i be able to get away with a 2x14 non resi shock to save money or is it worth spending the extra on say a 2.5 with resi?
 

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I'm going to say you need a resi shock so that the fluid and nitrogen are seperated and will not mix and foam. If your needing bypass shocks your needing 2.5" resi shocks. Going fast builds lots of heat in shock fluid. You want to be able to absorb and disperse the heat as efficiently as possible. Not going to work as well with a 2.0 as it would with a 2.5. More surface area = better cooling
 

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You will need valving in the CO. Anybody tells you different doesn't know what the fuck they are talking about.

Leafs have a lot of friction so you can get away with running just a BP. Without that friction, you will have very little low speed damping. This is where the CO comes into play.

Also, going with a 2.5 will really help your spring selection. 3.0's would be better.
 

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Depends what bypasses you have, how you plan to mount them and what piston is in them. A 3.0 bypass mounted 1:1 may be very stiff and hard to revalue light enough. I have been in vehicles that worked very well built both ways.

Lots of desert cars run coil carriers with zero valving. It depends what you have and what you are doing.
 

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Fox recommended I use 2.0 coil overs on my newish u4 car. Then big 5 tube bypasses.

I had 2.5 coil overs on my last car and they told me it was not ideal. no need for them.
 

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Like Pokeman said, Im building a tube chassis LJ and both Accutune and WOD (who is building my chassis) said a 2.0 C/O and 2.5 BP is extremely common and works great and that a 2.5 C/O wasn't necessary.
 

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Granted that was building a whole new package, you may be in a difference situation with your old BP's.
 

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I asked Ryan @ Accutune about just using coil carriers with bypasses when I bought my stuff. He said you wanted some valving in the coilovers to help with the bypasses. Basically each works better when both are sharing the loads/heat.
 

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You will need valving in the CO. Anybody tells you different doesn't know what the fuck they are talking about.

Leafs have a lot of friction so you can get away with running just a BP. Without that friction, you will have very little low speed damping. This is where the CO comes into play.

Also, going with a 2.5 will really help your spring selection. 3.0's would be better.

You tune professionally?
 

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well its tuesday so flame away for this stupid question.

im currently running 3x14 triple tube bypasses with deaver leaf springs on my rig. going to links so will need to buy coil overs. is there any advantage to buying larger coil overs if they are just there to hold the weight if the rig if the bypasses is doing the damping. would i be able to get away with a 2x14 non resi shock to save money or is it worth spending the extra on say a 2.5 with resi?
you left out purpose of vehicle. that has more to do with what you should use then anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
you left out purpose of vehicle. that has more to do with what you should use then anything.
ya i went full tuesday and forgot to add that :homer:

new build will be a TMR Customs chassis. will be trail wheeling 90% of the time but want to do 1 or 2 short course races a year. few other races but not ultra4 and more tuff truck/obstacle course type. so looking for a good multi use set up. this will also be for the rear and will not be running trailing arms
 

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ya i went full tuesday and forgot to add that :homer:

new build will be a TMR Customs chassis. will be trail wheeling 90% of the time but want to do 1 or 2 short course races a year. few other races but not ultra4 and more tuff truck/obstacle course type. so looking for a good multi use set up. this will also be for the rear and will not be running trailing arms
2.0/3.0 on the axle might be a bit harsh if you trail wheeling is the main purpose being a canuxican.
- what are you using on the front?
- why no trailing arm?
- how heavy is this thing going to be and how much weight behind the rear axle?
- what kind of axles?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
2.0/3.0 on the axle might be a bit harsh if you trail wheeling is the main purpose being a canuxican.
- what are you using on the front?
- why no trailing arm?
- how heavy is this thing going to be and how much weight behind the rear axle?
- what kind of axles?

-front will be 3x14 coil overs
-main reason is less cost and fitment as dont need the extra travel
-want to be 5000lbs trail ready, not sure about weight behind the rear as havent even started to build yet.
-79 hp60 front and ford 10.25 rear. both with trusses blah blah blah

will also add that ill be running both 39 stickies and 44 cut boggers so rig is kinda all over the place :laughing:
 

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ooh and i will add, you should follow your shock tuners advise on this not the internets.
 
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