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Hello all, I am new to pirate, this is actually my first post, so I hope I am asking this question in the proper manner.

I could use some help with valving my coilovers, what I have are s.a.w. 2.5 16" travel shocks that I bought used from Craigslist. I was told they were used on a class 7 trophy truck. So I am sure that the valving is wrong for rock crawling. I have them on a v8 powered rock buggy. 106" wheel base with approximately 20 deg of rearward angle. As I am sure you can tell I have no experience with coilovers. If someone could give me a start point as far as shim stacks for comp. and reb. I would greatly appreciate it.
 

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probably not much help, but maybe contact the company and see if they would do it for you or if they know someone in your area who can tune them for you.
 

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ive never heard anyone say paying for a tune day with a professional was a waste of money.
 

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04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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ive never heard anyone say paying for a tune day with a professional was a waste of money.
Meh, log onto pirate not knowing what you have with a vague vehicle description and get perfection. Much easier this way. :flipoff2:


Wait, I used to go onto DR....

Dude flip your stacks and it will ride like a cloud of titties!


:flipoff2:
 

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Thanks to those that offered actual advice. And damn some of you can be real tools.
As much as some of the advice may come off as abrasive or being a "tool", most of it is pretty solid in reality.

As a real rough generalization with of course some exceptions you will find shocks tuned for desert racing to be higher on compression and lower on rebound vs. shocks valved for trail riding and rock crawling. But "high compression valving" can be anything from a .015 shim stack to a shim stack where multiple sizes of shims are doubled and tripled etc. (Please note that I am GUESSING on what your current shocks have in them)

I would get them on the car and drive it. See how it rides, and go from there. You will need to take them apart and see what your baseline/starting shims are and then start adjusting. Also, make note of how many bleed holes are open in the piston when they are apart.

I had a shock engineer that has access to a dyno and designs and valves shocks for a shock manufacture tell me once that in the end(no pun intended) the best tool to get the final tweaks is the assometer. Get your ass in the seat and drive it to see what you need to do/change.
 

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I would guess your shocks were used as coilover carriers on the previous rig, probably not much valving in them
 

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You have to bolt them on first to get a starting point, there is no magical number that you can start with, these are made to be tuned to your ride.

Oh, and I just thought, you never mentioned spring rates, so be prepared to deal with spring rate first, then valving, then tuning in spring rate again... Back and forth.
 

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I bet somebody with some experience with this sort of thing could make a better then 60% guess at them with some info from you.


Now if only we knew sombody.............Hummm?
 

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Bolt them on.

Drive

Decide what you do or don't like.

Open them up and make changes.
I hate to say it, as it is the hard way, but this is exactly what I did. Bought the tools (nitrogen...), made mistakes, read, learned a ton, took a long time, lots of work, eventually turned out exactly as I wanted. Second truck was 100x easier.
 

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So what's the starting point recommended for a hardtop 4door jk with lots of gear/bumpers/etc(and therefore, essentially an fj/fzj80) on 2.5 non emulsion shocks? Let's talk shims not fox'(or whoever) codes for specific stacks
 
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