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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have searched a lot looking for pics and info on the subject. My situation is unique in that I don't want to backhalf my rig. Also, not really a fan of cutting up my tub. As of right now I am planning on using this kit from Poly. They make an extended version that allows for more adjustment in the frame mount. Just wanted to see if anybody else had any great ideas on this subject.




While we are discussing CO's, what spring rates are you guys running with TJ's? My rear end is pretty light; fuel cell, PSC corners, trail rack above back seat with spare fluids, parts and a cooler. That is about all I run fully loaded. I was considering going 150/200, and if it is too soft swapping to 150/250 using a friends spares.
 

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Not a TJ, but I have 500 lbs on each shock in the back (250 lb spring compresses 2" with no top spring). On 14" shocks I run 12" 130 over 14" 250 for a combined rate of 85 lbs per inch. The 150/200 will give you the same 85 lbs/inch rate. Going to a 250 lb lower will only bring your overall rate to 93 lbs per inch which I think you will barely notice.
 

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I used the BTF rear frame kit for mine, still looks like a TJ other than the fact that its comp cut to compensate for the 10 inch stretch in the rear.
 

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You've seen my Poly kit. It's really nice, but I am not gonna try and convince anybody that it's worth $250. Somebody with some fab skill could definitely do it cheaper, similar to the one abble from Crossed Up. Clayton also has a kit. I still say the Poly kit is the best I have seen. You would definitely need to get the extended version from them due to your stretch. PM me for pointers if you decide to go that way or have any quesions about mine.

-Bart

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here is another option
Do you have any pics of this with the CO mounted? I like that look but want the CO mounted in a more vertical orientation.

Not a TJ, but I have 500 lbs on each shock in the back (250 lb spring compresses 2" with no top spring). On 14" shocks I run 12" 130 over 14" 250 for a combined rate of 85 lbs per inch. The 150/200 will give you the same 85 lbs/inch rate. Going to a 250 lb lower will only bring your overall rate to 93 lbs per inch which I think you will barely notice.
Do you like your setup with 85lb rate? My rear is very light so I think it will work well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
PM me for pointers if you decide to go that way or have any quesions about mine.

-Bart
Thanks Bart, I will do that when it gets closer to time

Sounds like you got a new project on your hands, matt. You going to be building your own rear 4 link or get the shop to do it?
Come on man, you know I only take it to a shop if I am out of time or patience. :D I will be tackling this with help from Pdaddy with welding and 4 link knowledge. Plan is to run a double triangulated setup with 14" SAWs. Hope to have it done for the trip to Clayton this summer.
 

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Come on man, you know I only take it to a shop if I am out of time or patience. :D I will be tackling this with help from Pdaddy with welding and 4 link knowledge. Plan is to run a double triangulated setup with 14" SAWs. Hope to have it done for the trip to Clayton this summer.
I know. :cool2:

I want to see what numbers you end up running on the calculator because I took your advise (as well as other) and have decided to build my own long radius long arms in the front and single triangulated 4 link rear. I know the terrain here in the south is different than in the north so the antisquat will be a little different. I have my calculator set to 125% right now but I am thinking of lowering it closer to 100%.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I know. :cool2:

I want to see what numbers you end up running on the calculator because I took your advise (as well as other) and have decided to build my own long radius long arms in the front and single triangulated 4 link rear. I know the terrain here in the south is different than in the north so the antisquat will be a little different. I have my calculator set to 125% right now but I am thinking of lowering it closer to 100%.
Sure I will add to my build thread when I start the 4 link. Probably a month or two out still though. Plan on ordering the parts next week though. If anyone else has any mounting ideas for the rear or spring rates post up.
 

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Yes I like it. Mine may be a little lighter than yours but at 500lbs sprung weight on each shock its great. I am 550 per shock in the front and run 225/225 for 113 lb/in. I set it up a little stiffer in front because that's how I'm used to driving.

Here's a screen shot of a helpful dual rate chart. I found it on here searching and can't remember who posted it. If you want the actual spreadsheet send me your email, I don't know where to upload a .xls to.

 

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Put the weight of the jeep on just 1 spring (slider upside down and slider stop set low) and measure how far it compresses. For instance, mine compresses a 250 lb spring 2" so 250x2 = 500
 

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hey

This is how i did mine. That must be a tite squeeze with out backhalfing it.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Clean work Zukman, I like it a lot. I am not crazy about the "hump" in the TJ frame, but I don't want to undertake a backhalf project. I also enter a comp each year that has a modified and unlimited class based on stock frames. I have a fighting chance in the modified class as it is now.
 

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No question the Poly stuff the sweet. I have looked at it a number of times. I am a bit surprised nobody mentioned using the stock F-150 shock tower approach.

I have these welded in up front. Rather than post my pics, here's some web based articles just to provide inspiration.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/dana44/suspension

http://www.in2jeep.com/fordshockmt.htm

I have seen this done on the rear too by notching the frame and stuffing these into the notch.

Maybe not what you want for this project, but may be something to drive other ideas.


Barry
 

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No question the Poly stuff the sweet. I have looked at it a number of times. I am a bit surprised nobody mentioned using the stock F-150 shock tower approach.

I have seen this done on the rear too by notching the frame and stuffing these into the notch.
I am not sure that the F-150 mount is wide enough for a coil over. They are narrower than the Poly kit which is tight. There is no rubbing on my TJ but it is close much of the time.
 
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