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Anybody seen anything related to 22RE ignition changes? I do have megasquirt and was thinking of swapping the guts if a gm efi small cap hei.
 

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Problem

just helped my buddy do this conversion tonight on his 82 22r. Everything seems to work except for the fact that his truck is really hard to start. I noticed that if i pull the coil wire out of the top of the coil about 3/4 of and inch to let the spark jump to the coil wire, his truck will start up immediatly. then when i put the wire back in it runs great until he shuts it off. The only thing that i know is that maybe it is because he has no resistor on the coil and it calls for an external ballast resistor. could that be the problem?

Here is the problem I can't seem to find the fix for.

Every once and a while it fires right off and purrs with first try with the key,

But every other time I have to crank and crank on it before it will finally kicks off. I'm getting 12 volts to the coil. I checked the resistance in the distributor and it's in tolerance. The ignition is on it's own circuit so there shouldn't be a Amperage drop there. Does that GM ignition take more amps than a toyota igniter? I can't seem to figure out why it wont just fire right up every time. I get stuck on a trail cranking and cranking then walk back to the truck and it fires right off.

Any input would help.
 

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just did this mod with all new parts (except the dizzy) and I got no spark. I was expecting my cheap yota to fire up but I got more work to do and more money to spend I guess.:laughing: any pointers on what to check? I have voltage on the negative side of coil even when the points are lined up, is this normal?
 

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c819, it's good. not sure what the problem was but I finally got spark, I can only assume I wasn't connected all the way into the coil with the plug wire, I pushed in about 50 times today but somehow I got good spark. bad thing now is I realize I just paid $800 with freight for a motor (and had to wait a month for it to ship) only to find out it's worse than the blown motor I just removed. from 20 psi at the worst to 70 psi at the best cylinder. I love wasting money and time.
 

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I'm confused...I thought this was one of 'the oldest tricks in the books'! I had a 20r and a buddy of mine was telling me that if I ever have a coil go out just get a GM coil / ignition module and wire it up properly. My only point is that I thought this was common knowledge already :O
 

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80 Toyota pickup running rough after swap

similar Problems As Kcar After The Swap.
Does Anyone Have Any More Information Or
Instruction About How He Fixed His Running A
Wire From The Engine Fuse To The Coil?
thanks
 

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with everything wired correctly and power to the module I was checking power with a test light. The negative post of the module, post c is also hot. Is that the way that it should be? I can't get my engine to fire. it's a 22r.
 

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This takes me bask years but I haven't seen any reference to the old round coils having a voltage drop resistor but as I remember they were started off of 12v and after the starter disengaged the voltage was supplied to the coil via a 8" resistor wire at 6 volts. I remember customers bringing in vehicles with repetitive coil failure and discovering that a shade-tree had wired the coil to run 12 volt all the time? any coil failures here with the 12 volt source? or have I missed something in this post?
 

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And it continues....

About I a month ago, my iginiter failed on my 1981 truck (22R), and I put one in from a buddy's truck and it fired right up.

Then, I set this up:

http://www.google.com/url?url=http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?topic=85514.0&rct=j&frm=1&q=&esrc=s&sa=U&ei=81KXU73YN4XioASe1oL4CA&ved=0CBsQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNEuApvFaakgdNJmzItV9r5Df_53ig

At first I mounted my GM module directly on top of my old Toyota igniter, thinking to use the heatsink capability. Didn't run. I then mounted the GM module directly on the firewall, which I had sanded. It ran, but would drop from 14 volts to down around 10 when you gave it significant throttle. I secured the ground strap to the module better and all was good (Except it did seem to take another couple cranks as opposed to previously).

About a week ago, the troubles started mounting. Occasionally it would take minutes to get it started. And then later start right up (although still taking a little longer than original system). Then it almost died on the freeway, which was without a shoulder due to construction, and I had to keep the RPMs above 3000 to get home. The coil was very hot when I arrived.

Thinking maybe I had lathered on too much transfer grease under the module, I wiped it to a more thin layer. The truck started and idled at different times throughout the day. But upon reving the engine the voltage would drop from 14 to 12. The next day it would not start. I said forget it, and put my buddy's low mileage factory set up in, which fired right up a month ago, and now nothing.

1) Did this setup damage something?

2) Did my distributor pick this moment to quit?

3) Why the occasional hard starts with the GM system?

4) Why the drop in voltage when I revved?

5) I heard mention of a resistor. Is this for power wire or tach wire? Is this when using a Toyota coil on GM module only, or also for GM/GM?

6) Can someone post a good drawing of a wiring diagram?

This is my only driver and I am beside myself. Thanks!
 

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have you opened the dizzy up and checked for corrosion and checked the rotor and cap?
Thanks for replying.

I put my buddy's relatively new distro in and it fires up in a split second. So...

1). Did my distro just happen to fail a month after my igniter, and indeed offer hard starting after 2 weeks, or did my GM setup hasten the end?

2). When a distro is beginning to fail, will the engine be hard to start sometimes and not others, or was that a symptom of the GM setup?

3). The cap and rotor showed some evidence of contact wear, but I have run fine on worse. What causes a distro to fail? Could something have shorted out? THE WIERD THING IS- the old distro was still starting up with the GM setup every time (It was sucking a couple volts at rev though). When I hooked the old distro to buddy's new Toyota igniter: Nothing. What happened?

I can borrow these parts for awhile then I've got to come up with over $400 to do it right. I am leary of trying a new distro with GM setup in case it is bad on distro (Maybe try junkyard). I love little tricks like this but it seems others have had some problems as well.

Some have mentioned an Accel module, and Totoya coil, and a resistor. I am planning on going OEM but would still appreciate any feedback on my GM problem and solutions.

Sorry for so many questions.

Thanks!
 

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leafspring, I had the exact same symptoms occur to me with a stock ignitor and coil, which has now led me to this thread. I have yet to finish the GM module/coil combo but can tell you that it is likely not your problem. when checking the resistance across the leads from the distributor, do you have 140-180 ohms(factory spec) resistance? Have you verified all grounds? please post with any updates!
 

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When I did my conversion to a carburator I left the 22re wiring harness in..can I still do the mod?
can you read? did you even try reading the thread or do you just want someone to reply to you?

:shaking:

you dont need any of the stock wiring so it doesnt matter if you left it or not

run a hot wire to the coil

run the two wires from the ignition module to the distributor

its all in this thread and has been done dozens of times

no you cant use an 22re efi ignition module

no you cant use a 22re distributor
 

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Bump...did this mod to my 85 pickup in the last few days and figured I'd share my experience for the next guy. The truck would not fire up after putting a dropping a Craigslist 22r in. I was not getting any spark. Replaced the Toy coil to no avail, and regulators are ridiculously overpriced as discussed in this thread, so Pirate to the rescue:D

Long story short, I did things pretty much exactly as Rock Zombie detailed in Post #82, using same part numbers and vehicles. I picked up the house brand over at Napa but he could correspond the part numbers to his own. I wired the +12v feed from the old green Toy plug that went to the igniter. As for the distributor wires, the white one goes to the "W" terminal on the ignition module, and the red or pink wire goes to the "G" terminal. It ran like ass when I switched them the other way, but would fire up before my timing was set correctly, where the desired configuration would not reliably fire up when the timing was way out. (I did this in the process of a de-smog and Weber swap too).

I cut out a piece of 3/16" alum to mount the module to for a heatsink, then bolted to the fender where the igniter used to mount. The NAPA module came with a little pack of silicon-type heat grease. I'll try to snap a pic tonight to share. Thanks to everyone who posted up in this thread and saved me some $$:smokin:
 
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