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I have a 95 ZJ w/ the 318 and I would like to get OBA w/o spending a lot of money on a CO2 tank or messing with mounting a York/Sanden type compressor.

How do I convert my stock AC to OBA and what parts do I need to get it done?

Is this type of setup even worth the hassel?

Thanks

Cody
 

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yeah, i'd say it's worth it

i've installed a 2nd compressor for that specific reason in my ranger since a york was too big to fit and i'd have to say i'm really impressed with the output.

my mounting design:
i used two short peices of 3/16th thick flat stock with a pair of holes in each to extend the current a/c unit's two top bolts, this became the two bottom mounting points for my compressor.
the top is easily seen in the folowing picture


i don't have a picture of it, but i ended up also adding an idler pulley between the air compressor and the power steering pump to held the ammount of engagement that was happening.


problems i've had so far and solutions i came up with:
finding fittings - i just took the compressor to my local napa store and asked for barbed fittings that fit the compressor, the guy looked and looked, din't find anything, asked me to come back the next day after he's had some time for research. 24hrs + 30$ later, i had the exact fittings for my compressor... napa rocks.

oiling the input - i used a large off the shelf oiler in front of the intake to oil the compressor, works great if it's primed (covered later)

the output air is hotter than the surface of the sun, it will melt rubber hose - i haven't fixed this yet, i got higher quality hose, but i carry a spare length just in case, i bet i will need to go to a solid line to the manifold.

priming the oiler - i came up with a rather getho solution for this... the oiler is designed to work in 40-100psi range, i simply attached a male quick connect fitting on the end of the input side and i connect the output to the input for a few seconds... instant prime :)

another problem i've noticed that i have not fixed yet... the air compressor's output is very sensetive to input restrictions, having the oiler there and the male quick connect about cut my capacity down to a third of what it was originaly, i'm not 100% sure how i'm going to fix this, i want to keep both items on the input side, maybe i need a way to pre-pressurize the input line, sorta like a 2 stage pump.
 

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For the hot air line problem I simply grabed the stock soft AC hose and stock fittings from the doner truck and ran it to the fire wall. I think it is a combination of engine heat and compressed air temp because regular air hose doesn't seem to be affected outside of the engine compartment. You can also look for air break hose at napa, several guys I know run it and it works fine.

I use an adjustable drip oiler and have no priming system. It said the same thing on the box about running at a specific PSI, but I simply turned it up until it driped ounce every 5 or so seconds, works fine.

If you don't have an easy way of draining your tank or run ARBs use a seperator (oil will freeze in ARB lines locking your diff on or off).

Definatly worth the hassel. It is the fastest cheepest air you can get.

Oh ya, search, I know this was discussed in the past month or so.
 

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I was going to do this to my zj too, since my a/c switch went out anyways.
Just drain your a/c coolant out or spend $20 bucks have a radiator shop do it. Run a wire from the pump to a toggle switch and the rest will be just like every other oba writeup as far as fittings go.
 
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