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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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Without highjacking the thread, is there a good/bad way to mount the reservoir? ie: Hose on top/bottom/flat? Does it make a difference?

Someplace where it is protected from the tire/terrain and if possible in the path of airflow. Otherwise whatever you can come up with.
 

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On the same subject.

Could you make an air shock with an IFP?
Yes, but packaging is more of a problem there than it is with a coilover, because of the large volume of shock shaft cycling in-n-out. PIG can probably answer better, but I would guess that you'd have to take the "use a 2" shorter shaft" trick farther... maybe to "use a half-length shaft".
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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On the same subject.

Could you make an air shock with an IFP?
Yes, but it would require much more work to tune the oil level. Also I am not sure that you could get one to be as stiff as without. Because of the shape of the shock body and ifp, you may be forced to have a larger gas space than with just oil.


Yes, but packaging is more of a problem there than it is with a coilover, because of the large volume of shock shaft cycling in-n-out. PIG can probably answer better, but I would guess that you'd have to take the "use a 2" shorter shaft" trick farther... maybe to "use a half-length shaft".
A 2" shorter shaft would likely work. An floating piston is is deepest at full compression. The larger diameter rod just has the divider cup travel further towards the rodguide on extension. Where as with a 5/8" rod you may have 3" of travel, with a 1 1/4 you may have 7" of piston travel (For reference only, likely not valid math)
 

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Now on another site there is currently a debate as to whether or not the size of the resi makes a significant difference, as you are primarily picking up nitrogen space. This intrigues me, and I see a test coming on.
More surface area means more heat transfer, but the same oil volume is in contact with the tube wall....I can go around and around in my head on this one.

So oil dosent travel through the hose and into the resi? (am I reading that right?) Sounds like a dumb question I know but... :homer:


Chris:cool2:
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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So oil dosent travel through the hose and into the resi? (am I reading that right?) Sounds like a dumb question I know but... :homer:


Chris:cool2:
No it does. My thermo is not greatly up to par. If you have a 12" tube with 2" of hot oil at one end, will it cool faster than an 8" tube with 2" of hot oil at the same end?

there is more surface area to shed the heat, but does the heat run through the steel tube fast enough to make a difference?

I would have to do a lot of research and math to figure this out. Easier to test it in actual fact.
 

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Frank,

I'm just guessing here, but I doubt it would be appreciable in the example you give.

That said, I wonder if Chris isn't suggesting adding a honking reservoir and then increasing the oil volume in the shock and the IFP position to match?
 

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PIG, thank you for the shopping list.

I've got the 7/8" shaft shocks, and I will be ordering those parts from you sooner or later.:smokin:
 

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Frank,

I'm just guessing here, but I doubt it would be appreciable in the example you give.

That said, I wonder if Chris isn't suggesting adding a honking reservoir and then increasing the oil volume in the shock and the IFP position to match?

Actually Bill no, Im even more ignorant than that. Partly because I dont know exactly whats inside the resi can nor how it interacts with the shock. I havent tried to research it at this time as I dont HAVE to know it yet and Im not about to pull apart a brand new set of SAW's to look inside. Im assuming its just an empty can that allows addl. oil and gas to be stored inside. If its more than that please correct me as I really dont know.

Valving I have a grasp on (motorcycle carry-over) but my question was simply based on my limited knowledge. What I was wondering was if the can was mounted with the hose on the top, would oil get trapped in the can? If it was mounted with the hose on the bottom, wouldnt this allow oil to recirculate back and forth?

Once my wifes buggy is done then I will devote some time to learn everything about them, until then it has not been relevant to anything Im using at this point.

Looking forward to learning more, thank you Frank and everyone for sharing. :beer:


Chris:cool2:
 

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i was just thinking about doing this to my fox 2.0 emulsions. adding the IFP to the emulsion shock with no res. sounds like a really inexpensiive way to improve the shock. only problem is giving up 2 inches of travel. i just put fox res. shocks on the fornt of my rig and now the back is badly outperformed by the front. looks like you could convert 2 emulsions shocks to res. shock for about half the cost of 2 new ones......
 

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I dont know exactly whats inside the resi can nor how it interacts with the shock.
I can't really add anything useful other than the reservoir has a floating piston inside that separates the oil and nitrogen, most of the volume in the reservoir is nitrogen. The shock body itself, the hose, and a small portion of the reservoir is filled with oil. The dividing piston inside only moves about an inch or so at max. I was told by some folks that the bigger reservoir volume will help with pressure spikes on hard hits, but does not really add noticeable cooling by increasing it(this seems to be semi-controversial), but I have no testing experience to say either way. I also wonder how having the bottom mount reservoir differs from the top mount reservoir, the concept is the same but I know it has to have some effect? anybody have any ideas?
Good luck.
 

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Yes, but packaging is more of a problem there than it is with a coilover, because of the large volume of shock shaft cycling in-n-out. PIG can probably answer better, but I would guess that you'd have to take the "use a 2" shorter shaft" trick farther... maybe to "use a half-length shaft".
2" shorter works but it is a pain to find the right oil level. I have 1 12" shaft, IFP, in a 14" body air shock assembled but have had no time to run it. In the back yard it seems to have good manners and a high ramp rate on the nitrogen preasure. Maybe some day I will have a minute or 2 to actually test some of the Frankenshock creations I have in the shop right now.

wayne
 

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Bringing this "veteran" thread back to life.


So me gots me some resi hardware for my emulsion shocks (I still rock in the rear of my ride).




I just read this thread and excuse my complete ignorance on the shock internals ( I will be diving into some valving tech eventually but as of now I'm an idiot on the subject :homer: ).

So is converting my Emulsion shocks as easy as it sounds?

Unscrew the top caps, bolt up the resi caps and the rest of the resi stuff?

No change to the valving or other guts of the actual body of the shock is required?

Also. What is the common amount and how does one fill the oil in the resi when putting it back together?
 

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Won't all the valving put in for anticipated foaming now be overkill? I know my emulsions feel really rigid for just a bit till something(admittingly a speedbump at the mall at 15 mph) foams them.
 

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Ya...I don't know...:homer:
Hence I'm asking.
Just does not feel right to just swap ends and expect miracles.
 

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yes its that easy to do the work. Make sure you get the air out of the oil and set the IFP correctly. NO the valving wont be right but I doubt it was very close before anyway so put it together and see what it does you want it to do differently.

wayne
 

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Hmmm... yes... the valving is what I will need to tackle as far as learning down the road but you're right I don't even know what it is now so if the difference is negligible enough I guess it is not of concern until the actual tuning begins.


So anyways... speaking of oil and IFP : what are the rules of thumb in the IFP set up and tips for filling the oil?
 

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Why can't a 2.0 resevoir be used on a 2.5 shock? Besides the an8 vs 10 fitting(fox).
it can but the limited pressure area of a 2.0 Ifp will be overcome by the hydraulic force of the 2.5 shock more easily causing the piston to plunge. there are ways to fix that but it is not ideal. Fox 2.0" end caps are usually -4 or -6 and the 2.5" end caps are -8 or -10 although we use up to -16 when conditions require.

wayne
 
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