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Discussion Starter #1
My engine temps have been higher than I'd like to see lately. 208 unloaded, A/C on, pulling a mild grade at 60-70 mph. 234 pulling 10-12k, no A/C same grade at 50-55 mph. I pulled the cat and put in a flow-through muffler hoping it would help, but it really didn't. '04.5 HO w/ auto. Are these normal temps? The numbers are from my attitude display, not guesses. Can I lockup the fan clutch? What aftermarket options are there?
 

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Start with a good cleaning (pressure washer) of the a/c condensor, intercooler, and radiator.

Those clutch fans aren't the greatest. If you replace it, make sure you break it in properly.

The radiator would be my last guess.

Those temps don't seem too bad, but I don't remember exactly what mine used to run. The guage did move around quite a bit.
 

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Is your fan clutch kicking in at all? If you do replace make sure to go oem. I used a napa one and it didn't work very well. Put OEM in and it was fine.
 

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If your EGT's are at a safe level it should cool it fine. The only time mine gets hot is when I'm pushing the EGT's going up a long grade. I would agree with cleaning the radiator, that crank case vent tends to gum up the radiator.
 

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I had this problem. I pressure washed it and all but it still was hot. You need to pull the radiator. I pulled the radiator and was amazed on how much dirt was packed in there after I had just pressure washed it a week earlier. I washed it out and havent had an issue since.

Mike
 

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Not to hijack, but I've never heard of breaking in a fan clutch. How do you properly break one in?



Rob
You rev the engine at 2000 RPM (right away) for a few minutes. You will hear that the fan clutch is engaged from the start, then it will go off after a couple of minutes. I don't remember if you are supposed to repeat the process 1 more time or not, but that's the break in process.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Is your fan clutch kicking in at all? If you do replace make sure to go oem. I used a napa one and it didn't work very well. Put OEM in and it was fine.
I can't tell. On my Dmax, I could hear the fan kick in, are the fans on the dodge's as audible? My truck idles up when it's over 200, but no excessive fan, or other noises
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Any excessive slipping of the torque converter? (On my gasser when the t/c was slipping the engine temp would climb from the extra heat being added to the rad).

234 isn't horrible, but its on the high side.
The edge recorded a 10% slip, which it's done since I put it in. I am waiting on a price for a new billet convertor though, considering the weight of my tractor/trailer and living in the hills
 

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Pyro. probe on the outlet or inlet of the tubine housing? If you are on the outlet then 1100 constant is really pulling hard and I'm sure you have upped your fuel a bunch. What is the boost pressure at 1100 deg and what RPM? How heavy are you pulling and what grades?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Pyro is in the center of the manifold, pre-turbo. Fuel is bumped, boost probably high 20's, rpm, not sure 2300? Tractor and trailer weigh in about 12k, I don't know the grade %
 

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I can't tell. On my Dmax, I could hear the fan kick in, are the fans on the dodge's as audible? My truck idles up when it's over 200, but no excessive fan, or other noises
Heck, yes, the fan on my 99 24v Dodge CTD 2500 is audible. The first time the clutch locked up, I was towing 9,000 lbs. up I-70 westbound out of Denver. Makes one heckuva roar.
 

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I doubt a clutch fan is the problem at freeway speeds. At 70mph it should be ramming plenty of air through the radiator. If it was after you slowwed down from freeway speeds then I would think fan clutch. I really think the radiator isnt getting enough air flow.

Mike
 

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Low airflow can also cause the fan to not kick on. Wash your radiator from the engine side out. Best way is to remove it like was already suggested. I bet you get a bunch of crap out of it.
Travis..
 
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