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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Because this is in my 55... I posted it here. Please don't move me :D

This is a long one but, I think important to fully explain my issue and research in the quest to find an answer. Feels like the answer is in front of me but, just can’t seem to "find it".

Issue...
I have had a hell of time with my temp. activated unit. I have been through at least 5 of them... even got some smoke coming out of 2 of them (thin wire ones - Hayden p/n: 226204). The 2 fans were hooked up to a single unit set to come on at 190 degrees. The unit would kick on and function well. After a while of running the unit it would get really hot, then I started noticing "brown burn spots" on the back of the control board, the relay pins would get discoloration, and wrinkling where the relay pins plugged into the housing from (what I believe) the heat. After some time the unit would act funny and need replacing as it became unreliable, in my eyes. My belief is that the fans are drawing more amperage then the relay unit can handle, therefore, slowly "melting" the unit until it doesn’t work anymore. They are a standard 5 pin relay but, not sure of the amps… they could be 30, 40 or 50 amp relay units (Hayden p/n: 226204).

Need…
I need a heavy-duty unit that can handle the amp draw of two fans (or would even be satisfied it could handle the draw of one). It sounds like the same type of situation as the Taurus fan issue of amperage draw (spikes of 100amps). Been researching my options but, with all the differences in setup the answer is not jumping out at me.

Basically, I am melting units (from what I suspect) to be the amp draw and $60 a pop is getting real expensive. I want the unit to kick the fans on as needed without my manual intervention. I want my “final” configuration to be "clean", setup using best practices, and safe. (read: I don’t want an electrical fire).


Solutions…
Can I go buy a new unit (Hayden p/n: 226204) and upgrade the to a 5pin 70amp relay? Hayden parts pdf: http://haydenauto.com/pdf/imperial/electric-fans/electric-fans.pdf

Or

I saw SeaBass’s setup (post#25) but, not sure if I understand how to apply it to my configuration. (I don’t have a dual stage Taurus fan… just 2 separate fans that draw a ton). Link: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=293231&highlight=fan+++temp+control

Another fear is that the Hayden p/n: 226203 will fry with a 16amp max.

Or

The SPAL unit with a secondary fan setup. But, now I am looking at $140 dollars (unit + secondary fan harness) and more electronics on-board.
http://www.spalusa.com/

Lastly

I also saw the DC Control units and they sounds nice. Just don’t think they are available anymore as the site is “non-functional” and I will learn from everyone else’s experience. Not running down this path.


What’s the magic combo taking into account simplicity, functionality (ie – not burning up my relay units and cooling properly), and not to expensive. The last solution used almost worked but, fell short. I liked the simplicity of it but, the controllers were burning up. Can I just get a beefy controller?



Current setup...
Right before Rubithon the unit started acting up so, here was my fix (drove 5 hrs to the con, ran the con multiple days, exit'd and drove 2 more hours home without issue)

I could only find a relay unit with the small wires (Hayden p/n: 226204) on such short notice (of which I blew up two earlier in that day with the configuration I named above). Running dual fans out of a jaguar (unit has very good coverage and shrouding on the radiator), 4 core aluminum radiator, and no other fan (ie- flex lite fan connected to motor). I have 2 fuse panels: power-on and constant. I hooked up one fan directly to the power-on box with a 25amp fuse (on as soon as the key is turned. The motor will run at a constant 185 degrees in pleasant or hot conditions with one fan). The other fan was hooked up to a temp activated relay unit (probe in radiator & adjustable temp ) and kicks on at 200 degrees. This has been working but, the little unit still gets dam hot appears to be melting in the same way as the other units, at a slower pace.

Is this setup a hack fix or “dangerous” in any way?

Thanks for any help and reading my book :D
 

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DC Controls site is down while Briam catches up on massive back orders. He'll be back in a few weeks. I have one of his units on a single MarkVIII fan, and it is perfect. No problems to report with cooling 'cept when my t-stat stuck partially open...even then, it worked and kept me going..
Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info RJ40. Good to know the units work well. It sounds like exactly what I need but, just not sure about all the "foggieness" around actually getting it. How much are those units? Couldn't find a price anywhere.
 

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IIRC the price was around $140...

Why not run the 2 hayden switches with relays?

I think your major problem is that you are runningh the fans through the switches.. And they will kill them quick...

Did you see the wiring diagram MJ posted? That is the one I am going to use..
 

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IIRC the price was around $140...

Why not run the 2 hayden switches with relays?

I think your major problem is that you are runningh the fans through the switches.. And they will kill them quick...

Did you see the wiring diagram MJ posted? That is the one I am going to use..
I run a temp controled relay unit I purchased from Kartek for about 50 bucks. The maker I believe is Derale. It only has one relay and I did not feel comfortable with that so I used the second fan activator wire as a signal for another relay and wired it up that way so there is 1 relay for each fan. The on temp is adjustable with a flathead screwdriver so you can move it + or - 50 or so degrees. It has worked bitchen for about 3 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
IIRC the price was around $140...

Why not run the 2 hayden switches with relays?

I think your major problem is that you are runningh the fans through the switches.. And they will kill them quick...

Did you see the wiring diagram MJ posted? That is the one I am going to use..
That's pretty spendy for a unit. Heard they work well though.

When you say the 2 Hayden switches... are you referring to the $17 ones? Basically, run one switch per fan?

I didnt think you could run a temp activated switch any other way? (I am not a guru of electrical by any means) Can you elaborate a little?

Found MJ's post. Look's simple enough. Now I just need to fugure out what parts I need. :) I may remove the switch from the equation. I always need at least one on and the second to kick in auto. Where are you getting your 70a relays? (are they spst or spdt... which is the right one?)

Thanks for reading the long post and the help! Sorry for all the questions :beer:
 

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Run a $8 (lamp type) 4 pin relay one for each fan...If you run all your wires clean it will last forever instead of a togle switch just wire in the temp switch then it will see much draw and the relays will take the heat
 

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Seabass does not have the correct relays for MJ's wiring diagram.

There is a place in India that sells the correct relays for ~ 10.00 per..

I'll post up the place tomorrow.
 

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I have had tons of problems with the high speed side of my taurus. I finaly used a koll herse 700 amp battery sollinoid that I fired with the fan controler.
it hasn't burned up yet.
 

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the biggest deal with the high speed side is starting it from a dead stop.

Wire it the way MJ posted and it will never go straight to hi from a dead stop..
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
the biggest deal with the high speed side is starting it from a dead stop.

Wire it the way MJ posted and it will never go straight to hi from a dead stop..
With that being said, I am pricing out a few different setups. Sent an email to SPAL. If they "approve" my thought to wire both fans into the unit... that setup may acutally be very close to or even cheaper then MJs setup. It would also be a better solution for my setup.
 

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Just be patient, DCControls web site will be back around the end of the month..What is SO nice about his fan controller is that it ramps up the current draw slowly, and there is no sudden wack to your electrical system...thereby, no relays! It really works to keep engine temps steady, and has done fantastic for me. I think VortecCruiser had it `1st, and I followed his lead. Not affiliated in any way, just a satisfied customer. BTW, I run a SBC with a stock sized aluminum radiator, and have had no overheating problems on or off the road...I set it at 194* and have largely forgotten about it.

Cheers!
 

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With that being said, I am pricing out a few different setups. Sent an email to SPAL. If they "approve" my thought to wire both fans into the unit... that setup may acutally be very close to or even cheaper then MJs setup. It would also be a better solution for my setup.
MJ's setup is gonna cost me about $60.00

Just the SPAL is more than that..

IMHO, I would never do buisness with DCcontrolls. The wait time is the least of the problems..
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I heard back from the SPAL guys. They are saying I will need the whole deal for my setup. This would be roughly $160 (on the high-end). That includes the SPAL unit, second fan harness and temp sensor for intake.

MJs setup would cost me.... (these are rough calcs)
spdt toggle - 12volt guy $20 + 6 shipping

70a spdt relays - 5 at $37.99 (need spares)
http://www.fourthgen.net/relayscart70A5P.html

Hayden 226203 (see link above) - x2 @ 17ea. = $34

10 or 8 wire? And shrink tubing stuff $7

Somewhere around - $105

I am just pricing this stuff out so I don't end up nickle and diming myself to death.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Just be patient, DCControls web site will be back around the end of the month..What is SO nice about his fan controller is that it ramps up the current draw slowly, and there is no sudden wack to your electrical system...thereby, no relays! It really works to keep engine temps steady, and has done fantastic for me. I think VortecCruiser had it `1st, and I followed his lead. Not affiliated in any way, just a satisfied customer. BTW, I run a SBC with a stock sized aluminum radiator, and have had no overheating problems on or off the road...I set it at 194* and have largely forgotten about it.

Cheers!
I think DCControls has a great product (from what I have heard) and sounds like EXACTLY what I need. My issue is that I don't like all the sh#t being flung around about paypal disputes (and its not just one), managing and staying on the guy to get something you purschased from a vendor. There are only a few good experiances I have read about and a lot more bad ones. Just to much drama.

From my price estimate I would rather spend the extra $20 (if I went the spendy route), and not have to deal with all the BS and issues. That is not how I want to spend my time and money. I have very little of both. I woud, however, consider buying yours though :D

I sure hope DCC figures it out (either set the expectation or model a business plan to handle the demand). Sounds like he has a good product. I wish him the best.
 

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that was alot of reading to find MJ's diagram.what type of temp switches would be run on that?I like the idea of how it is run.mine is a manual turn on with a high/off/low currenty.
 

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I would have cross posted it. But he already knew where it was ;)

Any temp switch would work. The Haydens seem cheap enough and functional tho..
 

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From my price estimate I would rather spend the extra $20 (if I went the spendy route), and not have to deal with all the BS and issues. That is not how I want to spend my time and money. I have very little of both. I woud, however, consider buying yours though :D.
:eek: Sorry, not for sale...it works too well. That's a shame about the business plan and all...product sure works well for me.

Best of luck no matter how you wire it!

Cheers!
 
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