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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a FJ40 with a TBI 350 and sag power steering. Cruiser runs hot . Now I have the Sag power steering completed and need idea's for Radiator. I saw the Downey Radiator but do not want to spend the cash until I get some feedback. Any ideas?



Derek
 

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It's amazing how diverse the cooling problems are from one cruiser to another ( w/ V8 swap ) This subject is more talked about than breaking birfields:D
The link above was a great way to organize some thoughts... but figured if I threw "my 2 cents", all of us combined could probably raise enough $ for you to fix the problem:smokin:
Spark Plug Gap... I'm running a new 350 (w/auto trans.) and pimped out the cooling system... alum. radiator, blk magic elec. fan (no mechanical), etc... I thought I was golden:confused:
Idling...not really a problem, under pressure...watch out! Whether it was crawlin' or driving up a mountain pass, the temp just kept rising... got it up to 260 (temp @ head) when playing in Montrose (CO)WHOA! I (and many others) did everything possible known to man (to much to list)... until that is, it was time for a tune up.
350's normally run a spk plug gap @ .0045, but w/ a hotter ignition, such as HEI (which i'm using) it's .0060:shaking:
From months of anguish over this situation to a simple tune up (and a few brain cells revived), that I was able to use it without worry. On the hottest day, it never broke 205... while consistently running @ 190! FIXED!
I don't know how your progress is, but this is something you might check out if your still unsure.

P.S. Radiator+ Downey= mucho $$$
Go to Summit... Griffin or Howe is the best bang for your buck!
I'm using the Griffin ( $188 to my door...cant beat it!) A little smaller than I wanted (course there are other sizes) but my FJ40 (a.k.a "the limo") is a 66' w/ the older headlight assembly (sticks out like a cone) so I used a narrower size (no problems though) to fit between. A friend of mine uses a Howe (even a little bigger) and mine works just as well...still a consistent 190!
Get rid of the stock one for sure!
Also... my electric fan works awesome, but if you continue to use the mechanical fan, make sure you build a shroud for it!
 

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yeh he is right goto summit or some where that deals with race cars those guys generally have good deals on radiator and cooling shit

and the spark plug gap is one of the big things not to many people realize
 

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I spend $500 on my Aluminum radiator and my Cruiser still ran hot until I cut out the inner fenders and took all the tranny/ps coolers from out in front of the radiator.

Just jack around with it and it will end up working. You are using a mechanical fan, right?
 

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I've got a Griffin fan from Summit with a mechanical fan and a shroud. The temps never get over 220* when I'm in 4 wheel low at Poteau, OK over Labor day with temps over 105*.

Go with an aftermarket and make sure you make a shroud.

Charles
 

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ok my turn I read all of the sugestions and

1 was left out.

I removed the bars on my head light bezel

that cover the radiator.

this was a easy way to improve air movement.

and most peopple dont notice that they are gone
just use a saws all on them then welded a piece
to cover the ends up.

then reenstall bezels
 

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Here is an idea I did.

http://www.lslc.org/austin/austinbios/blumenthal/Dulciena.html

My cooling fans are 2,500cfm.

My temp sensor is in the head and was reading 230 but we shot the cooling return line and it read 205. I am going to move my sensor to the intake manifold.

I am also looking into how to get the air out of the engine compartment better. I do not want to cut my fenderwells because I don't want mud getting in the engine compartment.

I am also thinking about moving my tranny cooler to one with a fan. Because the air passes through my tranny cooler then my radiator on the pickup side.

I have heard some people using FJ60 radiators too. Maybe someone running one can pipe in.

HTH,
 

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Its really quite simple....

Not sure why people have problems with this....

1. Most important...Install an High Flow Water Pump
High Flow Water Pump

Another

Another

Lifetime Warranty High Flow Pump

Okay...thats probably enough....

2. Make sure you have plenty of airflow

3. Make sure your radiator is big enough for the application...I.E...Chevy Smallblock...at least a 4-Core

4. Make sure your timing is right and your Plugs are gapped correctly...

Thats it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I have a flowkool water pump. Makes engine run warmer when stoped. Forces water threw radiator faster giving it less time to cool, so I have been told. It did raise my temp at an idle when stopped 5 - 10 degrees above what the original water pump did. Pluges are gapped correctly and base timing is correct. I have a TBI engine out of a 1990 chevy. It heats up in open or close loop so timing is not the problem. I am going to try a bigger radiator and fan shrowd. Thanks for all your suggestions.


Derek
 

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Isnt the problem in the down flow design of the stock radiator...A new manufacturing shop just opened here in town!!( we seem to have lots of race manufacturing shops in my little dinky town..cheap land and shipping I suppose)....They build aluminum units ..I spoke with the owner today as he was shipping 6 radiators to Advanced Adapters!!...Nice clean shop..They sell wholesale and retail!!...He told me converting over to a "crossflow" radiator will help tons!!...Real knowledgable guy..He even spoke with me about how LS1 engines need a different design because of some pre warmer for the heater.....Where the coolant just travels between the engine block and the heater core untill the car "heats up" or some crap like that ( I'm proballly got something mixed up there..I was trying to pay attention to him and watch my 3 year old son at the same time...Sharp aluminum everywhere!!..Anyway ..He qouted me a price for the radiater at $325...He even puts in a threaded socket for the fan thermostat switch..if you want to run an electric fan!!..He also said ..I could ditch the stock mechanical altogether..and just run one of his large fans ( manufactured by SPAL )..About another 200 bones for the wire ..relays...thermostat and fan!!...Would be nice..My Cruiser runs hot as hell..even with the stock 6!..Anyway...Later.~CLINT~..
 

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High flow water pump usually cause you to have more cooling problems. The key is the radiator. Look at the surface area of a chevy truck radiator. You must have a larger surface area for heat transfer to take place.
If you run a high flow pump, it pushes the coolant through the radiator too fast, thereby decreasing the time for heat transfer to take place. You can eliviate this with a custom X flow core, but they are not cheap.
IMO the best radiators to get are the wide double row chevy truck radiators, with a good shroud. With the wide rows it allows for a larger surface area for air flow/heat transfer. Only problem is getting it to fit, it can be done, but its not easy!:skull:
 
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