[ckolloff]

So I remember reading a thread where someone else was having this same problem but I can't search (it's down) and don't recall if a solution was found. I am trying to mount my '77 chevy 3/4 ton front rotors to my 19?? SRW 14B hubs for my disc conversion and cannot seem to find the correct stud.

Here is what I have tried and the result

Chevy 3/4 ton front stud (supposedly correct stud for these rotors)- too short for use with the 14b hub, has a shoulder at the base to seat in the rotor but not a snug fit. Seemed like the rotor would be kinda loose allowing the rotor to shift fore and aft

Chevy SRW 1 ton 14 bolt rear stud (correct stud for the hubs w/drum)- plenty long but has no shoulder to seat in the rotor- result: very loose fit, allowing the rotor to shift fore and aft.

Just cuz I had some laying around: Dodge D60 front stud- too large a diameter, doesn't seem like the threads will pass through the hubs w/o damage. Little short too.

Thanks in advance for any help.

PS- I did read Billavista's Tech article and according to that-
" I would be remiss if I didn't mention the fact that the stock 14b wheel studs have a large round head that doesn't fit quite right into the small bore designed for the stud head in the 3/4 ton rotor. The solution is to source new studs that do. I am cheap, lazy, and only ever drive this rig offroad at a crawl, so I simply re-used my studs for now. Eventually, I will replace them, as the net result of re-using them is that the lug nuts only just fully engage the threads on the stud, with no "stickout" of the stud, and this is certainly not ideal. When I figure out all the details on the stud dimensions and part numbers, I will add the info to this article."
-So no answers there.

 

[saf-t scissors]

I think you're worrying about it too much. Use the OEM 14 bolt studs, and keep the lugs tight. I've seen several factory front setups where the rotor is loose, only held in place by the lug nuts. I'm running the original 14b studs, 3/4t Chevy front rotors, etc. Been like that for a couple of years, never had a problem.

 

[jptbay]

I used the studs from a DRW 14 Bolt. Lots of thread for nut engagement and IIRC the staked shoulder area is longer as well. My rotor was held tightly by the studs.

 

[bluesman2a]

I just pressed my discs onto the 14 bolt hubs myself this afternoon. I used the stock OEM CUCV studs I pulled off of it originally. With all 8 lugs it's a pretty snug fit.

You are pressing the rotor onto the INBOARD side of the spindle, right?

Article:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b disc brakes/index.html
Check this pic:

 

[Cheepin]

I used front wheel studs that came off the donor axle I stripped for the rotors and calipers.The front studs are longer than the rear and have a longer shank that engages the rotor and the hub better.

 

[ckolloff]

I have the stock 14B studs but they seem a bit short- as noted in Billavista's Tech write up. I wanted to replace the studs while I am at it since the axle is getting new seals/bearings, gears, etc. The stock 14B studs have a splined shoulder for the drum and hub and then neck down. I'd like to run a beefier stud with more lug nut engagement if possible.

 

[BillaVista]

I'd like to know some part numbers too.

Mine had been fine since I wrote the article - couple of years - BUT I just swapped to new rims with a 3/8" thick centre and now my lug to lug-nut thread engagement is really minimal, so I need to change them.

If anyone has a Doorman pdf or anything I;d appreciate it.

 

[AlaskaToy]

been asking the same question. Turns out I didn't like any of the answers I got so:

k20/25 rotors are designed to run hub-centric on the back of the k20/25 hubs; so stud hole size on the rotors is not a big issue. The 14 bolt drums have a much smaller center bore than the K20/25 rotors do, so the rotors CANNOT seat hub-centrically on the back of the 14 bolt hubs. SO the best hope is that they can be staked lug-centrically to the hubs. The problem is the stud holes in the rotors are about .650ish". The commonly recommended dually studs are only .620-.622 - they are sloppy in the rotor holes. This means the rotor may not center on the hub. Not to mention grinding the heads on 16 studs sucks. I finally sourced a stud for a ford application that come closest to meeting all the needs of the above. Dorman 610-301 is 9/16-18, 3-1/4" long with a .622 knurl, but necks up just before the head. The portion that necks up seats in the rotor MUCH better; not a press fit, but not sloppy like the regular dually recommendations like 610-189 and 610-194. Plus the 610-301 head size fits into the relief in the rotors and requires no grinding. $1.99 at autozone, $2.48 at Advance, and $3.49 at Napa. Pix later. HTH someone someday.

Left to right (dorman part #s):

610-301.....610-194......610-189(stock rear stud 89 GMC K3500 SRW)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432263

 

[BillaVista]

Just spent some time at Dorman's site and found:

610-303
Ford Truck 97-85

Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 9/16-18
Knurl Dia.: .677"
Length: 3-9/32"
Shoulder Length: 15/16"
Head Code:
Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade

Application Note: REAR STUD: 10-1/4" Ring Gear

 

[BillaVista]

And

610-333 Chevy/GMC Truck 97-88

Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: M14-1.5
Knurl Dia.: 15.88mm (0.62519685 in)
Length: 90.5mm (3.5629921 in)
Shoulder Length: 32.5mm
Head Code:
Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade

Application Note: REAR STUD: DRW

 

[BillaVista]

610-359

GM Trucks 95-75


Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 9/16-18
Knurl Dia.: .625"
Length: 4-1/32"
Shoulder Length: 1-15/32"
Head Code: 359
Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade

 

[BillaVista]

610-383

Dodge Truck 97-94


Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 9/16-18
Knurl Dia.: .643"
Length: 3-5/32"
Shoulder Length: 1"
Head Code:
Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade

Application Note: FRONT STUD

 

[BillaVista]

610-392

Chevy/GMC Truck 96-77

Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 5/8-18
Knurl Dia.: .650"
Length: 3-1/16"
Shoulder Length: 1-7/16"
Head Code:
Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade

Application Note: REAR STUD: DRW, Rear Disc

 

[AlaskaToy]

Try shoving anything over .625" through the hubs...

 

[BillaVista]

Good point on the hub holes.

I'm just looking for options.

maybe the ideal solution would be to either enlarge the holes in the hubs or reduce the knurl past the part that engages the rotor?

610-418

Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 5/8-18
Knurl Dia.: .657"
Length: 3-13/16"
Shoulder Length: 17/32"
Head Code: 418
Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade

Application Note: REAR STUD: DRW, Rear Disc

 

[BillaVista]

610-429

Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 5/8-18
Knurl Dia.: .642"
Length: 4.10"
Shoulder Length: 1.250"
Head Code:
Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade

Application Note: REAR STUD: DRW, Rear Disc, 5/8-18 Stud

 

[BillaVista]

610-487

2002-2002 Chevrolet/GMC C3500 Truck

Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 5/8"-18
Knurl Dia.: 0.648"
Length: 3.856"
Shoulder Length: 1.30"
Head Code:
Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade

 

[AlaskaToy]

I've done all the same web surfing you are doing now. 610-301 was the best I found. There may be an even better option out there, but I haven't seen it yet.

It really would be best if there was a rotor that was more appropriate for the 14 bolt disk swap; idealy an additional 3/4" deeper, a center bore that matched the hubs, and a .622 lug hole diameter.

 

[BillaVista]

97061

Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: 5/8-18
Knurl Dia.: .642"
Length: 4.10"
Shoulder Length: 1.250"
Head Code:
Brand: Pik-A-Nut (Boxed)

Application Note: REAR STUD: DRW, Rear Disc, w/Cab, Exc. Motor Home

 

[BillaVista]

Yep - it would be better to have a better rotor - I just don't know of any. Especially not that are as cheap and plentiful as those we use.

Did you get an accurate dia of the rotor hole?