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What about moving the lower links inside the old frame rails? The uppers could just slide to the inside of the new frame and closer together over the diff. Looks like that would put you in the 36" range.

Edit: your right plenty of rigs with shorter links that work pretty good. Yours will work pretty good but is it worth it to fab everything up for pretty good?
 

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OP, the fab looks great. You're moving right along. Keep it up and thanks for sharing. :beer:

Why make the links so short after chopping the back half off? Having a couple pieces of tubing laying around is not a good reason IMO. Your going to hate that decision once you get it together and start wheeling it.
Out of curiosity, what would you consider the bare minimum link length for his shock setup?
 

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Somewhere in the mid 30's is what I'd be shooting for to keep rear steer to a minimum with a single triangulated 4 link and 14" travel.
I always thought that you needed some triangulation in the lower links to keep the axle steer down....10 degrees or so seems to greatly reduce the axle steer just like "longer" links. So Single triangulated isn't Ideal either.

@casey4x4 youre off to a great start. Thanks for sharing your build with Pirate4x4!!
 

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I always thought that you needed some triangulation in the lower links to keep the axle steer down....10 degrees or so seems to greatly reduce the axle steer just like "longer" links. So Single triangulated isn't Ideal either.


@casey4x4 youre off to a great start. Thanks for sharing your build with Pirate4x4!!
Longer links and at least 10° on the lowers helps alot, for sure. His lowers appear to have the 10° + already, so I was thinking longer links would help solve most of his rear steer problem.

Honestly, if I were cutting up a Jeep that much I'd just do a double triangulated 4 link rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Longer links and at least 10° on the lowers helps alot, for sure. His lowers appear to have the 10° + already, so I was thinking longer links would help solve most of his rear steer problem.

Honestly, if I were cutting up a Jeep that much I'd just do a double triangulated 4 link rear.
It is a double triangulated 4 link rear.

I drew it up in Solidworks. If the argument is that I should battle some packaging issues, add significant weight, and totally change what I have because of "crazy rear steer" then I disagree. If I change from a 27" to a 40" (too long IMO) lower link it changes the worst case scenario rear steer from 1.8 deg to 1.2 deg.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Got the tank into it's final resting place.


It's close!


Finally able to bend some tube! My favorite part of the build.
Bent up the hip bar. Despite my best efforts it still ended up 1.5" too wide and I had to cut and sleeve at the center. My ProTools die is a 6" CLR but I think I need to start drawing in Solidworks as if it has a 6.75" CLR, or cheat my start of bend mark .75".



Added two more bends right before the door to give it a little style. Plus it will help with tire clearance.



 

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Discussion Starter #32
More progress!

Tipped the windshield back about 15 deg to make it look fast while crawling.


Out boarded the A pillar as far as possible, this decision means the factory half doors won't work so I'm going to explore aluminum half doors.



I don't love the door bars but I think they will be functional. They make it easy to get in and out but offer good protection. Seat mount tube will run across between them and tie into the frame so they also help tie the rockers into the frame. It will look less goofy with the half doors on.



Used square tube for the "inner fender", hopefully that decision makes quick work of the sheet metal.

Air shocks are mocked up in the rear. I have a set of wheel spacers that the PO ran and I think I'm going to have to use them. At full flex the shock touches my frame and the tire touches the shock. I don't want to french into the frame because I want to leave that option available for the inevitable switch to coil overs.









I didn't like how tall the butt ended up. Looked goofy. I was looking at the back seat bracket and realized I could easily lower the seat a few inches in the back so I pie cut my frame rails and lifted the back up. Lots of advantages, gas tank is tucked up higher now, I gained 1.5" of up travel, and it looks better. Plus, I didn't lose any rear seat room. Win win.



I'm leaving 1.5" of shock shaft showing at "full bump". My bump stops will be in board of the shocks so that will allow for more up travel when flexing. I'm hoping it will also mean that in normal driving situations the pressure doesn't ramp up as quickly and my spring rate stays more linear and therefore more comfortable. We'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Absolutely loving the progress. You're giving me bad ideas.

One question: will this node be improved? Perhaps as I illustrated so elegantly in MS paint?
Classic. Reminds me of when my dad asked me back in the day, "So does all of this get welded or are those tacks enough?".
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Oh good, glad you brought up the tack welds because I was going to ask if you were going to fully weld it next. :flipoff2:

Sorry I offended you.
Hey, I'm just trying to bring back some of the flare of the old Pirate we all know and love. :flipoff2:

The square tube is there to make up the door opening for the half doors. It's thin wall.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Made some brackets and pads for the rear bump stops:



Put the 40s on the front for the first time and cycled the steering, everything fits well and no wheel spacers required. Here is the new ride height and stance:



Cycled the rear suspension more and ended up deciding that I since I don't need the wheel spacers in the front I'd rather not use them at all. Moved the Upper shock mount more inboard to clear the tires at full flex which then required me to notch the frame for shock clearance.

 

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I had poor luck with those poly bumps on my old set up. They like to explode. Heard people have a lot more success with OEM bumps from the JY.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I had poor luck with those poly bumps on my old set up. They like to explode. Heard people have a lot more success with OEM bumps from the JY.
I like the foam ones but these were $8 each on McMaster and I was buying a bunch of bolts and stuff anyways. We'll see how they hold up. If they explode summit sells a similar style foam bump.
 
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