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I have my shock hoops plated where they sit on top of the frame for piece of mind. That looks like poor weld penetration though. Do you have a strut hoop crossmember? I would do that over a gusset.



 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I agree on penetration. I like your idea as well but mine will be clamping the sides. Going to try and fit a crossmember but it's real tight with the air filter already. The front weld actually started to tear the frame a little glad I caught it now.
 

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I'm not your buddeh
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You should really use a hole saw, bore through the frame and weld your horizontal in a shear application, on both sides of the frame, for strength. Those welds are cold and not penetrating. Gussets will not fix the flexing/tearing issue you will see.
 

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It shouldn’t need to be through bored. The biggest worry would have been the frame ripping a hole in it because it is so thin (if it was welded properly). With that style hoop most almost all the failures I have seen was the frame tearing. Many people have run their hoops like that but put a doubler plate on the frame with no issues. He is on the right track with that. However, a crossmember should be used to support lateral loads. The hoops are like a long cantilever arm creating a moment that is trying to twist the frame. The crossmember would be in compression counteracting the inward force on the hoop.
 

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I agree that that’s a cold weld. I had resis on similar hoops on my cj7. Grind everything off and re-weld. I agree you probably need a crossbar. If you want to gas it as shown in the last picture off the top of the frame you can. A friend of mine ran coil overs similarly on a Toyota. No crossbar.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
It shouldn’t need to be through bored. The biggest worry would have been the frame ripping a hole in it because it is so thin (if it was welded properly). With that style hoop most almost all the failures I have seen was the frame tearing. Many people have run their hoops like that but put a doubler plate on the frame with no issues. He is on the right track with that. However, a crossmember should be used to support lateral loads. The hoops are like a long cantilever arm creating a moment that is trying to twist the frame. The crossmember would be in compression counteracting the inward force on the hoop.
I agree the thru support will still only be connected by a weld around the 1.75 tube. If I add the plate I am spreading the load across a larger section of the frame if I include gussets. The front section of the frame has 2 crossmember one radiator mount and the front box tube I used so twisting doesnt concern me at all. Frank I k ow they should work with them welded like they where but I have a heavy foot and probably drive faster than I should in the rough stuff. Most of my buddies are on 4 wheelers and such and I drive like an ass trying to keep up. It gets beat pretty bad. Might have to change the air cleaner assembly to something different to tie the front hoops together but I shouldn't have any problems after that. Thanks to all!
 
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