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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, I was just thinking.... You guys know those drop down leaf perchs for the rear?????? What if you cut a soft leaf spring and bolted or welded it to the chassis, and weld the other side to a missing linkage system??? (knowing that you need guiders and possibly a longer slip-line yoke)

My dad brought to mind that when we went over a fallen tree in a tank trap and pulled the front end off the ground, both missing links extended and the driveline seperated... so what I was thinking of doing was putting a shock on both links(Connected to the leaf thats connected to the chassis) so that when that happens, hopefully you can get your wheels on the ground B4 that happens... but for rock crawlin, or hill climbing in ruts and such, that might be a very good idea...

Copyright 7-20-2005 by Toby Stacy
 

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Discussion Starter #2
We get a good 33" in front and 28" in rear with almost stock shackle setup... with drop-down perches on the rear and drop-down front links, that might add a good 10" front and 8" rear!! Hmm... what other idea's can I get Brent to throw on another sammi?? (Cuz you know he needs to make another one... YOU HAVE ENOUGH... show-off... ;))
 

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3/4 elip., been done, adds much more then you'd think.

don't do it on the front, you'll kill your springs, shafts, and what ever else happens to fold under the rig.

i sitll don't follow the rest of what you're saying, a shock from where to where?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i called it crazy, cuz its not a good idea, probably send you in the ditch on the freeway...

And I knew it would hurt stuff, thats why I was thinking about the shock on the chassis bolted or welded to... maybe the missing link
 

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I hate to put down another zuk guy, espically one from oregon. But dude I cant figure out what your trying to say in 3/4 of your posts...
 

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Are you talking a drop link set up that will allow one side of the spring to droop away from the frame, or you talking a goofy leaf set up?
It sounds to me like your talking about a goofy leaf (buggy leaf, 3/4 ellipital).
If you are, there's no reasion to have a shock mounted on the shackle. I'm running this set up on my rig, have been for 5 years, and I don't have a single problem. I just made a mount to pin them shut when I'm driving it on the road, works just like stock that way.
But you wouldn't want to run a M/L type of set up on it either. I think that would be to unstable.
 

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Samurai202 said:
I hate to put down another zuk guy, espically one from oregon. But dude I cant figure out what your trying to say in 3/4 of your posts...
You see Bass Man, I'm not the only one - the reason it is so "crazy" is because your thinking on a level no one else is. Now, whether that level is higher or lower than everyone else is debatable.
 

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Samurai202 said:
I hate to put down another zuk guy, espically one from oregon. But dude I cant figure out what your trying to say in 3/4 of your posts...

Yea, I agree. Lurking on this board should be required before posting...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
purevil71 said:
there's no reasion to have a shock mounted on the shackle.
Well, you might over extend your driveline if you have your front tires in the air longer than a second... the shock might slow that process down...
 

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Bass Man said:
Well, you might over extend your driveline if you have your front tires in the air longer than a second... the shock might slow that process down...
Hence the shocks already attached to the axle, 2nd if this is a setup on the rear as the arch moves forward you drive the shaft back together not further apart. If you are looking at something like this on the front it would be very unworthy and have very poor stability and driving/steering quirks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Its not for the rear, there is already one for the rear, im talking about the front
 

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Bass Man said:
Its not for the rear, there is already one for the rear, im talking about the front
It would be unroadworthy at best. there was a company that was selling them for Jeeps, one of the yo yo's in our club bought the setup.. and it was undrivable at any type of road speed. I understand thinking outside the box but you will get better droop and articualtion and road worthy out of a good YJ swap.
 

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It would probably help to have a panhard bar if you were to try it on the front. That would probably make it driveable, at what speed I don't know, but driveable no the less.
Travis..
 

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crashnzuk said:
It would probably help to have a panhard bar if you were to try it on the front. That would probably make it driveable, at what speed I don't know, but driveable no the less.
Travis..
I dont think that would help all that much. I think the main purpose of the panhard bar is to control lateral movement of the axle, not to control the sway of the body and unloading of the suspension....
 
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